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Riveting PSI and Airflow Restrictors

skelrad

Well Known Member
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I had a recent conversation with a few builders and we started talking about riveting - the methods used for riveting were all over the place. One person used an inline airflow restrictor at the gun (the little brass one - not a regulator) but left the line pressure at 90 psi so swapping tools was easy, one used a restrictor but still dropped regulator pressure to 30-50 depending on the rivet (so I’m guessing the flow restrictor would have to be nearly wide open), and yet another person said restrictors were awful and just used regulators alone to control the gun.

Is there a norm? I’m starting to wonder if what I was told to do may not actually be the easiest method in terms of gun control and for getting consistent rivets. Any thoughts from you experienced builders about why to use one method over another?
 
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I found there is a big difference between the brass flow restrictor and a regulator controlling pressure in the system.

For me, I had much better success with riveting (especially skins) by using the regulator - the flow restrictor means the first couple of hits are at the full psi (be it 90 or a lower value) before the restrictor does its job. The gun became harder to control for me. Once I dialled the pressure back the control was a lot better (sometimes 30 psi for AD3 skin to rib rivets, or as far as 60-70 psi for an470AD4 rivets using a long offset cupped set).

Changing tools to easy - you just write down the pressure which works or take a photo before ramping it up to 90 for the squeezer.

PS - not an experienced builder!
 
I control the regulator at my tank. I found that the brass restrictor didn’t pull the pressure down enough when trying to run both the drill and the gun (90psi). I actually removed the restrictor.

YMMV
 
Pressure regulator is preferred.

I don't like the restrictor as the starting pressure is line pressure. Slowing the hammer with trigger pull is variable. Small regulators are relatively cheap, and could be a little inconvenient. YMMV
 
Use the regulator at your tank to control pressure.
Use the brass device for air flow control, or in the case of a rivet gun, for repetition rate control.
 
Lots of ways. Some caution advised

A regulator force-balances the downstream (or whatever conditions they're trying to control) pressure, and sometimes ambient pressure against (adjustable) spring forces to maintain the desired conditions for varying flows and inlet pressures; both of which change. The cheap ones without a trickle vent will let downstream pressure lockup to full line pressure though very momentarily.

The small brass "regulators" I've seen are just 1/4 turn ball valves. They will knockdown the inlet pressure to a desired pressure for a single set of conditions; flow (determined by the tool demands) and the available upstream pressure. As mentioned, both of these can/will change. The tool/process will see full line pressure for a short amount of time before the pressure settles wherever it's going to settle for that moment. See below.

Not saying at all that someone can't master their technique with one of the simple ball valve types. For riveting more delicate parts like 020 aero surfaces, that short burst of full pressure could cause damage; or long burst depending on where the "reg" is in the line.

Life will be simpler in the short term if you utilize a real reg; closer to the tool is better. The consistency of the tool inlet pressure will make the consistency of your workmanship easier to achieve. I finally broke down and got a cheap 3X manifold and QD'd all of the ports. I can have any combo of three regulated or full pressure lines (cheap compact spiral types) available. Can be removed in seconds. I got tired of switching back/forth between full (drills and squeezers) and rivet gun pressure.

What's all this rambling worth? Nothing regarding the technique you'll settle on. I would heed the caution. If you get tired of switching air source pressures, my approach may save you some time.
 
I use dual regulators and two hoses right at the hose reels. One is set at 90 psi for running drill motors, squeezer, and other full pressure attachments. The other is set for rivet gun pressure. Saves a lot of aggravation adjusting the regulator. The only time I use a little regulator at the tool is for my paint gun, and that is to fine tune the pressure while painting.
 
RTI regulator

Funny. So many methods.
I run full pressure on the air line to a three way manifold. Two pigtails are attached with regulators. One is a HF cheapo at 90 for the drill and squeezer. The second has a RTI 1/4" mini regulator. They don't float. I set it for #3 @ 22 psi and #4 @ 30 psi for a Sioux 3X gun. The RTI stays exactly where it was set no matter how long in-between uses.
Same for paint. Full pressure on the hose. Separator, RTI regulator attached at the gun.
 
Just for throwing another's setup out there, this is what I do.

-One bigger air line (1/2" IIRC) at 90psi for tools with motors or want fixed 90 psi. Works great for my impact wrench when changing car tires. Lots of flow through the bigger hose.
-Normal line (3/8") with swivel on the line hooked up to a different regulator at the work bench. I can easily dial it to whatever pressure I want. Usually 30psi for -3 rivets. 40psi for -4 rivet. If using a heavy/long rivet set, goes up 5 or 10psi.
-Painting, there's a regulator on the gun, it seems to be happy at 10-15psi, depending on product being sprayed. My old gun liked more pressure too. I run 90psi to the gun regulator and dial the regulator down to whatever works best at the gun.
 
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