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Epoxy system recomendation
- Thread starter BruceMe
- Start date
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
I like West because it's easy to work with, especially if you get the pump dispensers, and it's available locally (for me anyways) at boating supply stores like West Marine--that might not be much of a factor in Kansas though.
WingsOnWheels
Well Known Member
I really like the Poly Epoxy system. The downside is that I have only found it through ACS and the shipping is pretty high.
Dean Pichon
Well Known Member
I prefer MAS Epoxy over WEST System for the simple reason that the MAS product does not produce an amine blush upon curing. This saves the step of having to remove the blush prior to the next fabrication step (sanding, painting, secondary bonding, etc.)
I used MAS to build a kayak. It was relatively easy to work with and I was pleased with the results. I’m not sure how the price compares to West.
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BillL
Well Known Member
YMMV
West Systems, PTM&W products, others all have some good selection of resins. If you are not doing large high strength layups, West 105 system is good as any. It mixes well, takes tints, consistent set up and hard to sand in 24 hrs. Would not cut with a diamond wheel for 3 days, though, it is still a little soft.
You are experienced in this already, but the pump system is not much of a draw for me. I weight everything and pour to .1 g from gallon containers with no waste. It is just a technique. It is nice to pump a few grams, but pumps are not essential. I got fast and slow hardeners, though, so I won't be waiting 24 hrs on a small job. I found fast not suitable for layups over 50 g of resin, unless it is really easy.
Each resin has different set up times/properties and strength. I have one that has a 200 min pot life but excellent Tg. Very easy to take time in the layup but after bagged needs some thermal help. I would not recommend it for ambient cure applications, unless you have a long time and lots of sun
I use generic fillers with all the products.
West Systems, PTM&W products, others all have some good selection of resins. If you are not doing large high strength layups, West 105 system is good as any. It mixes well, takes tints, consistent set up and hard to sand in 24 hrs. Would not cut with a diamond wheel for 3 days, though, it is still a little soft.
You are experienced in this already, but the pump system is not much of a draw for me. I weight everything and pour to .1 g from gallon containers with no waste. It is just a technique. It is nice to pump a few grams, but pumps are not essential. I got fast and slow hardeners, though, so I won't be waiting 24 hrs on a small job. I found fast not suitable for layups over 50 g of resin, unless it is really easy.
Each resin has different set up times/properties and strength. I have one that has a 200 min pot life but excellent Tg. Very easy to take time in the layup but after bagged needs some thermal help. I would not recommend it for ambient cure applications, unless you have a long time and lots of sun
I use generic fillers with all the products.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Blush
While anime blush isn't really an Arizona problem...
"It is a by-product of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions."
It's removal is pretty trivial. From the WEST epoxy manual -
To remove the blush, wash the surface with clean water (not solvent) and an abrasive pad, such as Scotch-brite(TM) 7447 General Purpose Hand Pads. Dry the surface with paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding will also remove the amine blush. If a release fabric is applied over the surface of fresh epoxy, amine blush will be removed when the release fabric is peeled from the cured epoxy and no additional sanding is required.
If you wet sand it's taken care of anyway.
While anime blush isn't really an Arizona problem...
"It is a by-product of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions."
It's removal is pretty trivial. From the WEST epoxy manual -
To remove the blush, wash the surface with clean water (not solvent) and an abrasive pad, such as Scotch-brite(TM) 7447 General Purpose Hand Pads. Dry the surface with paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding will also remove the amine blush. If a release fabric is applied over the surface of fresh epoxy, amine blush will be removed when the release fabric is peeled from the cured epoxy and no additional sanding is required.
If you wet sand it's taken care of anyway.
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
Always use peal ply. This greatly simplifies the follow on work.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/peelply.php
Carl
Excepting micro mixes. They just putty on. I haven't found a better micro mix than West105 and balloons. Dries white, hard, and sands clean. 5minute is ok for plugs and quickie bonds, but it actually takes way longer to sanding cure than the fast hardener West. The pumps are a must have. Perfect, quick micro mix to your needed consistency right now.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Yes, but use the white micro balloons from Spruce. I presume that is what you use.
The WEST 410 Microlight filler works nicely, but the manufacturer says this -
Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high temperatures
Probably not the best filler for our cowls.
Yeah, very useful for dispensing into a cup so you can proportion by weight
Dan, have you found pump sets where the ratio was off?
I have been using them for years. I always do a weight measure on new pumps (as recommended by West Systems) and have never found them to be in error.
It does require a specific pumping technique to be sure to get a correct ratio.
If they haven't been used for a while, the first stroke on each is done slowly until product just starts to come out. Then release and do a full stroke. This assures that the pump gets fully primed before doing a measured stroke into the cup.
Found pump sets that blew bubbles, spoiling the cup in progress.
Ahhh, where do you get that endorsement?
Seriously, there are a great many useful shop-mixed adhesives, rubber compounds, and sealants. Most manufacturers specify a ratio by weight, which means a serious builder needs to buy a gram scale anyway.
Even with pumps available, a scale allows mixing as little as 10 grams of West...or anything else. The ratio is perfect, every time. There are nice digital scales which don't cost much more than a West pump set. I use an old balance scale.
I have never seen any pumps that introduced bubbles. Only that they will occasionally leak down if they sit for a long time, which is the reason for the partial stroke to remove any air that is in the upper part of the piston bore.
I have a number of different scales in the shop, so I am fully aware of the benefits of having them around. I just find that the pumps are more convenient sometimes.
William Slaughter
Well Known Member
Scale
I'm with Dan on this one. I use the pumps to fill plastic dispenser bottles from the beauty supply store, and use those to dispense into the cup sitting on my West Systems electronic scale for whatever size batch I'm mixing.
I'm with Dan on this one. I use the pumps to fill plastic dispenser bottles from the beauty supply store, and use those to dispense into the cup sitting on my West Systems electronic scale for whatever size batch I'm mixing.
