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  #11  
Old 01-10-2016, 08:08 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Actually, in most instances 1/8" is enough (1/2" would be overly excessive).
The only down side is that it can make it harder to remove install the cowl.
I wonder where you were when I was fitting my cowl and had this issue? There were many posts on this? I guess it will live with overly excessive clearance. I got no answers from Vans help line since it is not a Vans cowl.
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2016, 10:21 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowJacket RV9 View Post
I ended up having to shave mine back a good bit due to an earlier error in fitting it. What I did was fill in behind the circular opening with more epoxy so that I was able to bring it back in front without running out of material.



The plans specify 1/4", which I sure hope is enough, I'd hate to have to remove another 1/4"....

Chris
This is the cheapest path, but you'll need some precision to keep it flat if you are not good with body work. My top and bottoms didn't align well and had to form an extension of this shape. But, I restored a vette and got better at body work than I every really wanted. I am sure Sam (Sabre) could make you up the spacer you need or you could make your own from flat stock, cut to shape and use the spinner bukheads as drill templates. You could place it between the spacer and the inner spinner bulkhead.

My clearance is under 1/4" and no noticeable interference over 70 hours. In my research, I thought most guys were going between 1/8-1/4"

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 01-10-2016 at 10:32 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2016, 06:49 AM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
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Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
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What I did was actually take it down a bit more than needed, and then build up a little with epoxy using a large weighted board wrapped in plastic and sprayed with mold release to get a perfectly flat surface. It came out very well, just had to carefully separate the two halves afterwards.

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
This is the cheapest path, but you'll need some precision to keep it flat if you are not good with body work. My top and bottoms didn't align well and had to form an extension of this shape. But, I restored a vette and got better at body work than I every really wanted. I am sure Sam (Sabre) could make you up the spacer you need or you could make your own from flat stock, cut to shape and use the spinner bukheads as drill templates. You could place it between the spacer and the inner spinner bulkhead.

My clearance is under 1/4" and no noticeable interference over 70 hours. In my research, I thought most guys were going between 1/8-1/4"

Larry
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2016, 11:43 PM
Mark C. Mark C. is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Schaumburg
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Vans official reply regarding to close fitting between Spinner and Cowling. Block sand the 2 haves of the cowling together back fill with fiber glass epoxy mix. Do not add more spacers other than what they reference on their drawings for the 9A, DWG C4. 1/8 to 1/4 is fine for between measure. Mark C.
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