Scott's RV14A: N52XL

[rockitdoc]

My build progress has been scattered among various threads (most recently, the RV14 Build Progress Thread) over the past 18 months. But, it was wisely suggested that I consolidate the progress in one place (here). Wish I had done it earlier, but since the EXP119 is arriving today (yeah, baby!) this thread will have a logical beginning.

[rockitdoc]

I hate to advertise my mistakes, but this might help someone else not make the same one as I.

The piano hinge that holds the nose fairing together is specified as a 0.063 hinge. That's the pin diameter, not the thickness of the hinge flange. Duh. Shoulda read the Chapter 5 stuff better describing this.

Anyway, I used a 0.125 piano hinge. Thought it would be ok, if a bit stout, but getting the big 0.125" pin into the hinge is tough as it doesn't bend easily, and needs to to be inserted.

So, I removed the 0.125 hinge, epoxied up the holes (no, they won't line up with the 0.063 hinge), did the bodywork, and assembled it correctly with the 0.063 hinge. About a 12 hour mistake, all in. Oh yeah, had to order another 0.125 piano hinge. All in all, not too bad a goof up. And, the new slenderer pin will go in and out Much easier.





Prime and paint next....again.

[rockitdoc]

My Lycoming arrived!



Removed boxtops immediately to see the beauty! Haven't been this excited since I soloed!



Sides and top of box removed.



Modified the pallet so I can roll him around the shop. But, on second thought, I might hook up a belt drive, put a seat on top and scoot around the neighborhood. Kind of a super modified, experimental Soapbox Derby car.

[rockitdoc]

One of the first things to do when starting to mount the engine is to mount the fuel flow transducer (red cube). The plans call for hose clamps and a plate with cube mounted on the intake runners. I am changing this and am not the first to do it. There has been discussion regarding the wisdom of mounting the transducer on the vibration-prone engine. The way the plans would have you do it, adds some vibration resistance through the adel clamps on the intake runners. So, my plan is to isolate the transducer, somewhat, using rubber or silicone gasket material between the transducer and bracket and between the bracket and the sump. So,to document the process, here goes.

Prototype I:
First, fabricate the support out of 2x2x1/8" AL angle to fit the two 1/4-20 tapped holes on the left side of the sump. I called Jeff Schans at Lycoming re the purpose of the 1/4-20 tapped holes in the sump. He said they are for mounting baffles or other sundry thingies that end-users might need, so they will be 'red cube' mounts for me.



Second, get some 1/8" rubber gasket material. (1/4" would provide better isolation)



Third, cut #6 holes for the cube and 1/4" holes for the 1/4-20 bolts to attach bracket to tapped holes in the sump.

Fourth, put it on the engine and see what changes are needed.





Changes for Prototype II:
1. Get some silicone gasket material 1/4" thick to replace 1/8" rubber purchased at Ace 'Aircraft Supply' (which might degrade because of heat). 1/4" provides more isolation, too.
2. Get aircraft 1/4-20 bolts with holes in heads for safety wiring to sump.
3. Use #10 hex head bolts with holes for safety wire to secure cube to tapped holes in angle. (I countersunk the bracketI for some flat head machine screws with washers and lock nuts like the plans indicate, but the bolts can't be put in from the bottom of the bracket due to interference with intake runner.



The red Thunderbolt engine block matches the "red cube" rather nicely, don't you think? That is why I ordered the red block, of course. Those of you with grey blocks have a nice contrast, though.

[rockitdoc]

It took over 220 hours, but the wheel pants are finally completed and mounted on the legs. Hooray. More detail appears in the RV-14 area under "Show Us the Status..."where the bodywork is described. On to mounting the engine!

[TigerMan92]

What a great way to work on the plane. Love the lift.

[PatMac]

Very nice set up. Great looking plane and shop. Congrats.

[rockitdoc]

Originally Posted by TigerMan92

What a great way to work on the plane. Love the lift.

If you have a 10’ shop ceiling, a lift is a must. Wish i had gotten it 30 yrs ago.

[rockitdoc]

Made a longer doubler to counter firewall flex. The one supplied by AW is prolly fine because it is about 1/3 longer than mount, but I plan to use the larger Champion filter, so extra stiffness can’t hurt.



Sealed all bolts thru wall. Yuk. Having a partner required.



Havent figured out how to get AN fittings at oil filter to clock in correct direction yet but havent really cranked them yet with sealant which will lube some.



AW customer service has been the best. Great company. Highly recommend. The more convenient filter locAtion will make filter changes super easy and WAY less messy. Yes, it costs. Yes, the convenience, to me, is worth it. A clean engine compartment matters. And, at ~1/2 AMU compared to a 150AMU airplane, good value IMHO.

[Jetmart]

Don't want to highjack this thread but for anyone having messy oil changes and can't install a remote filter I found this trick here on VAF and found it works really well. This is on a stock -390 Thunderbolt. I was surprised how easy it was to set up and oil changes are accomplished without spilling a drop. I do have experience on other airplanes with the AirWolf remote filter and they have a fantastic product.