Tip: Sika bonding for less $$

I am posting this in hopes that this will save others the time, money and energy I invested into the Sikaflex bonding issue I had.

Situation: I previously bonded my sliding canopy about a year ago using the common process found here on this site. (Scuff both canopy, and frame, clean with Sika Aktivator, prime with Sika 209D primer, then apply 295UV adhesive).

Now came time to bond the windshield; I opened up the primer and activator and all I found were little solid hockey pucks of dried up primer. I posted a few WTB posts here with no luck. I remembered when I got my windshield replaced on my truck a while back that the company (large national windshield company) was using sika products as well. So I payed a visit to the local shop where the friendly employees gave me these few items:
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The flat pads are individual use Aktivator pads and the sticks are “Sika Primer-206 Stix”

The PDS for the primer states that it is suitable for: Glass, FRP, ABS, Plastics, Aluminum, Steel, & Paints. My concern was using it on the acrylic canopies so I placed a call to Sika technical support and described my application. The representative said that either 206 or 209D primer would be suitable for the acrylic and that the 206 would be better for the powdercoat roll bar.

My point here is that you can purchase these individual use Stix for considerably cheaper ($1.30 per stix) than the bottles and I never knew this and I don’t think I have seen others mention this on the forums. It took only one stix and one activator pad to prime my roll bar AND a 3/4” strip on the windscreen. I would think that one could do their entire canopy (slider and windscreen) easily with about 6-10 of these little guys and they were very easy to use.

http://www.chemical-concepts.com/sika-primer-206-g-p-stix.html

Let the naysayers begin but I would do it this way again in a heartbeat. You might be able to get them free like I did.

Hope this helps someone else.

That looks a lot easier than painting on the primer. Can you tell us a bit about the applicator? Is it felt tipped?

Lionclaw said:

That looks a lot easier than painting on the primer. Can you tell us a bit about the applicator? Is it felt tipped?

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There is a very light duty glass vile inside both applicators. You shake them for a while then just pinch to break the glass and the primer/aktivator starts flowing (It was like activating a glow stick). The tip on the primer is a felt tip and you just lightly squeeze the primer out. I was surprised how long it lasted; it was WAY easier than the brush that I used with the bottles and went on smoother with little streaks.

These look fantastic. Is this primer documented by Sika to be compatible with the 295UV adhesive?

krw5927 said:

These look fantastic. Is this primer documented by Sika to be compatible with the 295UV adhesive?

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It is not listed on the PDS. When I spoke to the tech I was very specific with what I was bonding and what materials I was going to use. He said they were all "suitable" for my application.

They work

I replaced the rear glass in my tip up 7. I used the the sticks to save money. They work great. The only issue is they tend not cover well leaving streaks. I let it dry and then applies over the thin areas.

The Sika is cheap. It's the primer that is expensive with no shelf life.

I'm getting ready to do the canopy on my Slider. If you look at the over all surface area that needs to be primed, it is very small. I'm leaning toward the sticks again. I think I used 10 on the rear glass. I'm guessing I'll buy 40. That should cover the canopy and front glass. And, since they are glass vials, they don't go bad.

Great tip Jeremy!!