Surefly install and Auto plug question

[lr172]

Originally Posted by togaflyer

Larry, I thought about locktite but wondered if it would create some resistance.

as long as you go sparingly, there is no issue. Keep it on the threads only. There is plenty of uncoated area at the base and therefore resistance in the threads is no issue if you insure that the base mating surfaces remain clean.

Remember that we are dealing with 25-35,000 volts here; It is VERY powerfull. If it can jump an .035" air gap, I wouldn't worry too much about loctite adding a few ohms. Heck, even your plug has a 5K ohm resistor in it. Anything that loctite would add is well within the tolerance range of that resistor

Larry

[togaflyer]

Getting ready to do my Surefly mag install with an auto plug harness conversion.

Engine is an IO 540 with dual impulse mags. Replacing the right Bendix mag with the Surefly. The current Bendix mag harness (right mag) feeds the top 1,3,5 and the bottom 2,4,6 plugs.

So question is, should I install the auto plugs with the current configuration (right side top and left side bottom), or all auto plugs on top or all on bottom. Some have said put the auto plugs all on top to prevent the chance of fowling. But I m not sure if those who recommended that was running an IO 540 or they have a four cylinder with a different harness configuration.

Also, I know the spark doesn't care if it from the top or bottom as long as it’s the correct cylinder. Just want to find out what the norm is when it comes to auto plugs and harness set ups.

[RV6_flyer]

Originally Posted by togaflyer

Getting ready to do my Surefly mag install with an auto plug harness conversion.

Engine is an IO 540 with dual impulse mags. Replacing the right Bendix mag with the Surefly. The current Bendix mag harness (right mag) feeds the top 1,3,5 and the bottom 2,4,6 plugs.

So question is, should I install the auto plugs with the current configuration (right side top and left side bottom), or all auto plugs on top or all on bottom. Some have said put the auto plugs all on top to prevent the chance of fowling. But I m not sure if those who recommended that was running an IO 540 or they have a four cylinder with a different harness configuration.

Also, I know the spark doesn't care if it from the top or bottom as long as it’s the correct cylinder. Just want to find out what the norm is when it comes to auto plugs and harness set ups.

I am not sure IF there is a norm.

One EI supplier says to put auto plugs on the top with their system when the other side is a mag.

Others have said mag on top plugs and EI on bottom plugs because any lead fouling can just replace the cheap plugs.

[WingnutWick]

When you do this, is there no worry about the crush washer that comes on these? I was thinking that once you pull it off you technically should replace it because the washer has been flattened?

Originally Posted by lr172

I run NGK BR8ES and DO NOT replace every year. I replace as they wear. No need to replace after 50 - 100 hours. They will last much longer than that. , just check the gap annually. Large gaps are hard on coils.

[togaflyer]

First, thank you all for the various information you provided. Helped out significantly 👍

Surefly was installed and set in the variable timing mode. I obtained the G3i auto plug harness kit and instructions and happy with the results. Tom at 3Gi was easy to work with. Since I had a TCI Bendix mag and harness set up, I purchased the Slick mag cap. For a very reasonable cost, Tom did the modification to the Slick cap for me. Even if I was replacing a Slick harness I would recommend purchasing the Slick cap and preserving the original Slick harness. I used Denso W 4045 plugs that are pre gapped to 31 thousands. I gapped the Denso plugs to 32 thousands. All auto plugs are installed in the upper cylinder location and the fine wire plugs I run were gapped to 18 thousands (TCI Bendix mag) and installed in the lower cylinder location. During my flight, engine leans much more without missing, all temps still good range, did a lean side mag test and very smooth. Did a hot start test and much easier without the hot start drama. This was a good upgrade with positive results in the RV 10.

[WingnutWick]

Glad it worked well! Out of curiosity, what made you go with SureFly vice PMags?

[lr172]

Originally Posted by WingnutWick

When you do this, is there no worry about the crush washer that comes on these? I was thinking that once you pull it off you technically should replace it because the washer has been flattened?

No worry as long as you get them back to the proper torque. In the auto world, plugs are removed and reinstalled all the time during maintenance and diagnosing. It is not a crush washer per se, like seen in liquid environments, such as for an oil drain plug. They are NOT considered one use only.

[togaflyer]

I researched what was available in electronic mags and I believe they are all good products. It was almost like deciding which glass panel I wanted, Garmin, Dynon, etc. For me, Surefly was overall an easy install, other then it was some work running power from the battery to the mag. The Surefly Sim was simple to set up and it’s a set and almost forgot system. The G3i Slick auto plug harness kit also made my choice easier. I’m not an engine guy so I did not need the ability to tweak my timing etc. so the Surefly checked all my boxes for what I wanted out of the system.