Should I care about Ekoprime on outside surfaces / overspray?

Unfortunately, I've wasted hours of the beautiful Pacific Northwest sun today... agonizing over masking of parts before priming to prevent overspray where I didn't want it. My plan is to use the Stewart Systems EkoPrime on inside surfaces - and have the exterior professionally painted when I'm finished.

Can someone just tell me once and for all that it doesn't matter if some of my "inside" priming gets on the "outside" surfaces? Will the paint shop take care of removing anything that's showing? This might include small ribs that show to the outside and some areas of overlapping skin where overspray occurred.

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Switched from P60G2 to the Stewart Systems EkoPrime for the same reasons most people don't like the relatively toxic P60G2. So far, things have gone well - until yesterday, when I did some aft skins on the RV-12 horizontal stabilator. They're pretty small, so I masked the edge holes prevent overspray. It seems that the etching/drying process and leaving the masking tape on overnight trapped etchant under the tape and got me some nice surface corrosion in the morning. I scotchbrite'd the corrosion away this morning. Can I just leave that until it's professionally painted?
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[PS] - What's the point of priming if the professional paint shop uses a stripping method that may ruin the primer on the inside?

Thanks in advance
-Steven

Paint shop

Anything you do that save the paint shop work, saves you money. Masking and paper is easy and cheap. Vans gives you tons of it. Try and keep it paint off the outside but a little overspray is no big deal. Just keep it off delicate parts like the canopy. The paint shop is not going to do anything to harm the inside. That would cost them in the end. If yiu inadvertently create some problem, fix it. Spray some 7220 or SEM on it. They can scuff that little bit off easy.

Isn't it water borne? Can't you just wipe it off after each coat of paint?

Likely they will be sanding or etching the surface somehow which will likely involve some mechanical work. A little overspray won't hurt. If it is coated and they have to sand a ton off it will cost. Also, like previous poster said wipe it off when it is still wet.

EkoPrime is easy to wipe off with acetone, even after it dries.

Thanks all - helpful to hear from the more experienced!

I'll mask where it's easy, and as suggested try to wipe up any significant/obvious overspray in between coats. The intricate details where specific parts overlapping might be taken care of by the pros (or me, with a bit of extra time and acetone where it makes sense).

Good point, Larry - I've got some 7220 I could throw on after I scotchbrite off the accidental etch/corrosion. I'll take care of that tomorrow. I may leave some masking detail to the pros if it's likely to cause me rework (scotchbrite and 7220) anyway.

Echo prime will disolve in solvent

So, be sure you get it ALL off where the finish prime and paint will be if it is not waterborne. Solvent based primers will make everybody unhappy. I know.

Larry DeCamp said:

So, be sure you get it ALL off where the finish prime and paint will be if it is not waterborne. Solvent based primers will make everybody unhappy. I know.

Click to expand...

There are a couple spots where the damage is already done with P60G2 (Vertical stab aft-facing spar web, rudder forward-facing spar web, and sides on the anti-servo tab ribs)... but I'm changing my ways and will use the waterborne where possible from here on out.