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Mouse Milk

Rick6a

Rick6a

Well Known Member
Until I learned that Larry Vetterman recommends the use of Mouse Milk on the ball joints of exhaust systems, I was only dimly aware that the product even existed. After including a bottle of Mouse Milk with the most recent parts order with Spruce, a bottle of MM will now share permanent shelf space with other maintenance items supporting my projects.

The label on the bottle itself reads like a magic elixir speil coming from a snake oil salesman and I can understand that. A review of the archives didn't provide all that much information, so I am asking. Besides using Mouse Milk as a proactive to periodically lubricate exhaust system ball and slip joints, I'm interested in know what other specific situations RV owners have found Mouse Milk to be useful.
 
I'm interested in know what other specific situations RV owners have found Mouse Milk to be useful.
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My throttle cable was a bit sticky..., my A&P said to apply some MM down the cable to loosen it up a bit. Worked great.
 
Ever milked a mouse?

Reminds me of "Meet the Parents" when Gaylord Focker talks about milking a cat?

At my old job we used it to free up seized bolts/pins/parts...Landing gear trunion pins...TR bolts.....etc

I used KROIL or mouse milk which ever was closer to me, they both seemed to work very well with some heat and pressure to free up seized parts.

....and like you, I like telling people that I got their "part" loose with mouse milk.....you would get some odd looks.
 
You should see the set up Aircraft Spruce has to milk mice, hard to get the little suckers to hold still.


;)
 
I use it as a cutting lubricate for drilling, lathe work, tapping etc.... on steel parts.
 
...could it all be the same?

Now wait, you're using it for drill lube?....could it be that Mouse Milk is just BoeLube , thinned down with mosquito saliva? :)
Are 67% of the world's products really coming from the same bucket?...just frozen, thinned, coloured, or re-packaged & branded?
( the first time I saw a tube of BoeLube, I said.....'this is like the little roll of 'lip balm' stuff that I used to lubricate the cork on my saxaphone with... in high skool!!!")

...another good 'consipiracy' theory anyway!
 
Not very specific, but I use MM for EVERYTHING that calls for a light/penetrating type oil, at the hangar and at home. I think it's great stuff- penetrates well and lasts well too. That little can of Marvel Mystery Oil has been pretty lonely since I learned about MM...

(Edit: I guess I shouldn't say "everything" because I do use Boelube for a few things: solid for first-time threading in a nutplate, and liquid as cutting oil...)
 
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It's a good penetrating oil for really stuck fasteners - like the O2 sensor on your car...:)
 
flyboy1963 said:
Now wait, you're using it for drill lube?....could it be that Mouse Milk is just BoeLube , thinned down with mosquito saliva? :)
Are 67% of the world's products really coming from the same bucket?...just frozen, thinned, coloured, or re-packaged & branded?
( the first time I saw a tube of BoeLube, I said.....'this is like the little roll of 'lip balm' stuff that I used to lubricate the cork on my saxaphone with... in high skool!!!")

...another good 'consipiracy' theory anyway!
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I use Biolube on Aluminum and MM on Steel. I am not really sure what the base chemical is for either of them, I suppose I could look it up.
Unless you are doing industrial production work with hundreds or thousands of operations, I think almost any lubricant will work on almost anything. I have used tool oil, engine oil, kerosene, ear wax, belly button sludge, whatever is handy.
There are differences that I am sure would affect tool life etc... However, for our homebuilding, we don't need to be that specific in my limited experience.
But for penetrating oil to loosen parts, nothing works better than MM.
 
Not sure I agree with Larry V on this one. Mouse Milk is a penetrating oil. I believe a nickel-based antiseize works better in this application. Before putting an exhaust on I paint it on and work the joint. At every condition inspection I wipe them down and reapply. The antiseize was always present the following year.
 
Going with Bob again on this one. I use a nickel anti-seize on all exhaust joints (slip/ball) and on all threaded exhaust parts. Studs, spring bolts, etc. SOP. Mouse milk for stuck stuff. I have been mouse milking TSIO 520 wastegates since another A&P tipped me 25 yrs ago and Rotax cured their 914 wastegate problem with an "unofficial" fix by drilling a hole in the casting over the wastegate shaft and pumping it with the "milk".
 
That reminds me, I've seen enough broken exhaust studs on Continentals that makes me do the studs a little different. I rub red RTV on the exhaust flanges, the base of the cylinders and the studs. After putting it all together I take a small brush and paint the nuts and the ends of the studs with the same high temp RTV. Basically coating everything. This gives them a protective coat that stands up extremely well and prevents the corrosion that causes studs to break. Never had an exhaust gasket leak either. Getting the nuts off after painting them isn't a problem at all, and all of the red RTV comes off easy with a stainless dremel brush.
 
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Very True...

Nickel based anti-seize works very well for the exhaust joints, I guess it's just how many tubes and bottles you want laying around and if you want to disassemble or not. :D
 
LifeofReiley said:
Nickel based anti-seize works very well for the exhaust joints, I guess it's just how many tubes and bottles you want laying around and if you want to disassemble or not. :D
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Also specified with a yearly inspect and replace on all of the sliding joints on the STC PowerFlow exhaust systems. I

On a RV, if your crossover tube sliding joint seizes then all of the thermal expansion loads are put on the welded exhaust port flanges...
 
NeverSeez...

..is my personal favorite. Contains molybdenum disulfide. Piperfitters use it on steam pipe joints.

I have even used it as a camshaft assembly lube on small-block Chevrolet race engines in the flat tappet camshaft days and I never wiped the nose off a cam lobe.

Larry Tompkins
N544WB -6A purchased flying
W52 BG, WA
 
For those that use Mouse Milk on everything....how do you apply the product? I use it for my Vetterman exhaust but have not tried to use it elsewhere. Seems like it would be hard to properly apply it to other areas.
 
Rick6a said:
... Besides using Mouse Milk as a proactive to periodically lubricate exhaust system ball and slip joints, I'm interested in know what other specific situations RV owners have found Mouse Milk to be useful.
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So what you're saying is you're not actually supposed to drink this stuff?? Could explain my calcium deficiency. Oh my..;)

Chris
 
Mouse Milk????????

OK you Yanks, please help an ignorant Aussie - what Mouse Milk? If it's on the market in Australia, it certainly has not crossed my radar..........it sounds bizzare even if it's just a name! :confused:

Erik
 
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hmm

I don't really have any experience with mouse milk. I discovered "triflow" about 3 years ago when I was having bearing failures on my r/c helicopters. I started using triflow and have no more failures. It is a penetrant also and triflow claims to actually absorb into the metal to provide protection and lubricant. I am personally sold on the stuff. I am gonna order me some mouse milk to compare.

bird
 
Glen (Humtybump) had the funniest reply I've seen in a while, had a good laugh reading (with pictures!) Didn't know it was actually possible to milk a mouse. I think Glen has too much time on his hands, time to build something.
 
Ausmo - If you google Aircraft Spruce and search for mouse milk it comes up. Don't suppose our cousins across the sea know of Bilby milk.
 
chrispratt said:
So what you're saying is you're not actually supposed to drink this stuff?? Could explain my calcium deficiency. Oh my..;)

Chris
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Yer kidding, right? Just need to shop around a little more... The advantage of living here in Davis, where the milking technique was invented. I always keep a quart in the fridge...

As well as a bottle in the hangar. Has worked pretty good as cutting oil when I make RV parts on my little Sears lathe.
 
Ausmo said:
OK you Yanks....what Mouse Milk?....sounds bizzare even if it's just a name!...
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tkatc said:
For those that use Mouse Milk on everything....how do you apply the product? I use it for my Vetterman exhaust but have not tried to use it elsewhere. Seems like it would be hard to properly apply it to other areas.
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Acid Brush will hold a surprising amount of MM. You can then paint it onto hard to reach areas.
 
When I was Crew Chief for Reno Super Sports "Bad Intentions", we had problems with rust on the wastegates. We were spraying about 1.2 gpm of water on the engine and the wastegate shafts were rusting.

Mouse Milk was applied to the shafts after each use of water and ended the issue. It is good to very high temperatures.

Bruce Patton
RV-6A 596S flying since ' 99
HP-18 5596S flying since ' 89
RV-10 9596S reserved, ordering in 2 days!
 
Mike S said:
Alright, I am convinced.

Where is the best place to buy MM???

Looks like the price varies quite a bit, then there is shipping to consider.

So, what are you folks paying for it on your doorstep???
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ACS, in my case. I added it to another order so shipping cost was spread out.
 
I've used Mouse Milk on the exhaust ball joints as Larry suggests and it seems to work. However I had kind of an exciting experience after the most recent application. Maybe 15 seconds after starting the engine the cockpit began to fill with white smoke. Turns out the Mouse Milk had run down the exhaust pipe into the heat muff, and I happened to have the heater valve open which let the smoke into the cockpit. So the stuff does burn!
 
This is one of a few things that should be in everyone's hangar....along with good ole' Marvel Mystery Oil!

Cheers,
Stein
 
SteinAir said:
This is one of a few things that should be in everyone's hangar....along with good ole' Marvel Mystery Oil!

Cheers,
Stein
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yes i agree with both MMO'S. my exhaust came apart after 8 years of using the mouse and my engine went way over TBO using the mystery. both on my shelf.
 
MouseMilk

I've seen it used to free up sticky/dirty valves on large Continentals. Lower plug hole plugged, piston near TDC, filler-up with MM. Let soak for couple of days, replenish as needed.

Somewhere there's an article debating the merits of Mouse Milk vs Marvel Mystery Oil.

But Tri-Flo, now that stuff is awesome! I use it on various aluminum and stainless stuffs from firearms to sailboats to airplanes.
 
Mouse Milk vs. antiseize

I now use Vetterman's exhaust task of Mouse Milk every time the cowling is off. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Bill Dicus said:
Have you trade names/sources for Nickel based anti seize compounds?
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Permatex 77124 is what we use at work.

I just used it last week, on over 400 fasteners for a medical floor installation in an MD902 Explorer. With structural-stressed floorboards, domed nutplates mounted to carbon fiber keelbeams, and stainless hardware (not to mention the fuel cell between the keelbeams...), I didn't want to take any chances with galling, seizing, or breaking of nutplates.
 
Lube technique?

Hi all,

I just recently did the "final" install of my Vetterman system. Then I read this thread and acquired milk of the mouse to lube it. Can I just gently inject the MM around the various exhaust joints or do I need to disassemble the whole thing to lube it properly? If this is a re-lube with annuals and when you pull the cowl, certainly no one is really taking it all apart.

Thanks,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
 
Lubing the Exhaust System

To answer my own question, I emailed Larry Vetterman. He said to get a little syringe and place a few drops of mouse milk at each exhaust joint. He said it will penetrate and spread itself without any further disassembly.

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
 
stand back about a foot and give it a good squirt just like the mouse does. job done. LOL.;);)
img0953qd.jpg

waiting to pick up some hawk poop. :confused::confused:
 
And all this time I theought the best all around lube, sealant etc. was Monkey s**t?
However, I have recently tried the 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fliud and acetone. That fabeled mixture which out performed all the patent penetrating oils. I think it really does!
Now I wonder what's the best ATF to use, there are now at least a dozen types. Being me, I use the cheapest. :rolleyes:
 
Speaking of ATF, I have had a few quarts sitting around from back in the day when old transmissions required an occasional addition. I also have a chain saw with a reservoir of oil to lubricate the chain. The chain oil that they sell for $$ is red and, well, oily. Hmmm. That surplus ATF has been working just fine in the chain saw for a long time now.
 
mlwynn said:
To answer my own question, I emailed Larry Vetterman. He said to get a little syringe and place a few drops of mouse milk at each exhaust joint. He said it will penetrate and spread itself without any further disassembly.

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
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Just dip a small flat blade screw driver in the container and drag it around the joint. about three dips will do one joint.
 
jarhead said:
Permatex 77124 is what we use at work.

I just used it last week, on over 400 fasteners for a medical floor installation in an MD902 Explorer. With structural-stressed floorboards, domed nutplates mounted to carbon fiber keelbeams, and stainless hardware (not to mention the fuel cell between the keelbeams...), I didn't want to take any chances with galling, seizing, or breaking of nutplates.
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Used the same stuff on the sliding joints on an aircraft Powerflow exhaust system.

Fairly easy to obtain from a good auto supply house, but you have to call around. The usual Pep Boy type outfits did not have it.

The typical silver colored anti-sieze compounds are good to 1600 or 1700 F. This one is good to 2400 F.
 
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