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Anybody using clickbond nut plates?

Clickbond

I have one in my hangar. It was a sample.
You can have it if you want it.

Dave A.
 
They are used extensively in transport category aircraft in non structural interior applications.
 
Click Bond

Just came across your post.. My Gears are just a turnin' with the application of such devises.

I would use these primarily on composites but could be used on pretty much anything that you would not need structural support. However, I bet with further support from their engineers, they are stronger than you would think!
 
I doubt they would be cost effective. Primarily used in composites and when installing a interior in a Airbus biz jet cost is not much of a consideration.
 
I used then in my wing tips and wheel pants and gear intersection fairings. Very simple and very fast, plus less holes to drill. Also used their zip tie bases to secure wiring bundles. High quality, high production, high cost.:rolleyes:
 
You can buy the glue in small packets .. I made my own conduit support out of .032 which I bonded in place on the fuselage ... looks very strong to me .. Look at the date sheet for the strength ... But you do have to do proper cleaning (which is included in the small bags) ...
 
Ask Boeing/Lockheed Martin

Vansconvert said:
http://www.clickbond.com/modules.php?name=Products2&op=category_view_parent&categoryid=88

Just learned of these. Are these acceptable for aircraft?
Click to expand...

The F-22 is LOADED with these things. Five years of experience (Edwards AFB & Elmendorf AFB) has taught me that you must follow the instructions EXACTLY to ensure proper adhesion. Even then if it is a panel that you will open frequently you may be better off with standard nutplates. The most common failure mode was to not allow the epoxy enough time to cure before use. Premature load crushes the lattice structure of the epoxy resulting in a ClickNObond.
 
I've used them a lot in the airplanes that I've built. Only downside is the expense. (and the glue packets expire over time and must be replaced).
 
I used these several places on my plane. Especially the panel, where I didn't want rivets showing around the instruments. Also a handy way to avoid having to tap threads in the longeron for the empennage intersection fairings.
 
I used them on the instrument panel to avoid extra holes and I used them on my wing tips. If I had them earlier in the build, I would have used them to hold the floor panels instead of pop riveting them. They are not cheap, so it's all a matter of balancing cost vs. time/convenience.
 
Don't use them, they will eventually disbond. Working transport aircraft I have seen this many times. Very difficult to remove a screw from a spinning nutplate.
 
I don't use the nutplates but I use the studs. They will be used mostly in my overhead console for the oxygen delivery units and some electrical components. But I also used them in the rudder to secure the trim servo. The ones I put in the first attempt at the rudder a couple of years ago are like limpets; I'd crinkle the aluminum skin trying to remove them. For carrying a light load like a Ray Allen servo, I don't think I'll have to worry about them coming off.

So I could see these working for nutplates, but for the expense I'd rather use a regular nutplate. I haven't run into places where I need a nutplate that I can't rivet it in.
 
Great

They will not disbond if installed correctly. My RV has no holes in the floor. Zip tie holders for wiring as great. Trick is lightly sanded surface and clean. Then only mix up enough bond for about 5 fasteners. After applying the bond put the fastener in place while bond is wet. It should ooze out around the base and be beige in colour. As soon as its light green it's too late. Mix up more bond. I use them for wiring bundles, Adel clamps, multiple nutplates. I have glued a test nutplate and tie down fixture and pulled as hard as I could. I broke the scrap going through the wire bundle and snapped the head off of the screw by torquing it. Highly recommend. Only downside I've experienced is supply - companies seem to not stock enough and don't carry all the product. Also careful on the threaded ones. Some are course thread and will not work with an3 an4 or standard 6 & 8 screws
 
It looks like the added value is the replacement by removing the clips and replace the threaded element. That would be a big advantage for military or commercial for keeping maintenance costs and down time in line.

It looks like a cost/value relationship out of range for homebuilt environment.

Cool design, though . . ;)
 
Clickbond Studs

In composite planes (our Cozy IV, for example) I have used probably 100 of the ClickBond studs. Everywhere I want an Adel clamp in the structure is a ClickBond. The aileron and rudder hinges are held on with ClickBonds (that is something like 40 right there). The autopilot servos are held in with ClickBonds. The landing brake is held on with ClickBonds. On and on, you get the idea. I've used lots of them.

Here are some keys:

I don't use their adhesive. I find it finicky, tough to tell if you've done it right, and they sometimes fail. I use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut 6 slots around the edges of the bonding disc. This helps keep it from rotating. Then the surface I am bonding to is roughed up in a ~2" circle. I flox the ClickBond in place, then do a 2 BID layup over the clickbond. Popping a hole in the BID works fine, and use a straw or heat shrink tube to keep the epoxy off the threads. Peel ply over the BID and let it cure.

For critical applications (rudders, ailerons, landing brake, etc) it is exactly the same, but the ClickBond is inserted from the opposite side of the layup, through a hole. Then same flox, BID, peel ply.

Installed as I have outlined I have not had one disbond. If you want to test it put one in as described then pull it out with a pair of pliers. You'll find that the layup is destroyed long before the ClickBond comes out.
 
Better than pulled rivets

I used these in a few non-structural areas when it would have been difficult to rivet or dimple. The only failures I had were due to the glue being out of date. Once I kept the glue packs cool and used by the expiration, everything worked great!
 
Click-Bond studs are used in many spacecraft, as well, for some *very* structural applications.

Follow the process spec exactly...proper surface preparation is key. AND, be aware of temperature limits in service. Too hot and they *will* de-bond.

That said, I've used several of the Click-Bond products in various places...studs, wire trees, platenuts...on the plane. With the exception of one or two that debonded because of poor surface prep on my part, they've served very well.
 
I used the click bond nutplates for my wingtip lense attachment mounting screws. They work great on the fiberglass and create a very clean installation. They are expensive though so I don't think you'll want to use a large quantity of them.
 
Just a note to say that the adhesive failing will NOT result in a structural failure, just in a maintenance headache you have to disassemble.

We've installed clickbond studs at work using double-bubble packets REALLY close to the 105MM howitzer to secure instrumentation wiring on an AC-130 in a pinch, seems to work just as well as the $$ click-bond stuff. I've also used Hysol 120HP and similar with good results.

On my RV and in race cars I've used the plastic and foam tape sticky pad zip tiedowns with the junk tape ripped off and double bubble, hysol or JB weld with a 100% success rate (so far).
 
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