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Trim Servo Nutplates and NAS 1097 Rivets

Yep, that's exactly what I wish I would have done on mine. I think you will avoid any warping of that plate by doing it this way. It could just be an optical illusion as I can't feel the rivet but towards the end of the video the NAS rivets still looked a little proud.
 
Your probably right. They will sit about a64th proud. I haven't set them and that might help so I'll follow up after the part is done.
 
Every nut plate (prob over 500) on my M2 I put in with NAS 1097AD3-6s which I then cut to length as necessary. In fact I just ordered another 1lb of them from Vans (half pound is all you need for a standard plane). A micro counter sink is overkill for this. I use my standard hole deburring tool ala this http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Hex-Shank-Hole-Deburring-Tool/productinfo/DB04/#.WZWeWumQzIU in a cordless drill. Dig in a bit and in 1.5 turns or so and you got the depth you need. Doesnt take but a few goes to get the hang of it.
 
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Just did a bunch of nutplates with NAS 1097s last weekend. It's really my default process now. Set up the countersink tool and away you go. The little dimple on top will smash down flat when squeezed, and they will end up as flush as anything.

Edit: I have done it with the normal countersink bit on occasion, but my normal process is to use the micro stop. I leave it set up for the NAS 1097s, and the countersinking goes very quickly, as you're able to get to finished size in one pass.
 
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I used NAS 1097-3s in many places also. The heads are of course a 1/16" rivet size (AN426-AD2) since they are an "oops" for that smaller rivet. As you know, very little metal needs to be removed. The method I settled on was to use a #40 piloted c-sink bit in my dog leg deburr handle. A few turns was all that was needed to make a flush install.
 
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