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Cleaning Products??

AndyRV7

AndyRV7

Well Known Member
What do you guys use to clean your planes? I'm thinking of oil on the belly, and drops of brake fluid at the moment.

I bought a spray bottle of "green" household cleaner/degreaser, but it doesn't do a very good job. Of the people's hangars I've visited, they always seemed to have some nice effective cleaners in generic, unmarked spray bottles. I'm wondering what other options I have.

Thanks.
 
Piece o cake

Oily belly (painted or not): WD40 or mineral spirits. If you use a detergent cleaner that actually removes the stuff, be sure to rinse the belly after finishing up. Don't use the detergent stuff on bare aluminum.

"Wing Solvent" can also be used in a pinch. It's the blue stuff in the tanks...

Brake fluid (aircraft) is also a mineral product, so the same stuff will work there too.

As a yute, my Pa had me wiping his new 1963 Skyhawk belly with dry cleaning fluid. Very stinky stuff, that carbon tetrachloride, but it worked pretty good. Pretty sure it's a banned substance now! :-0

Carry on!
Mark
 
DO NOT use regular Simple Green cleaner. It can corrode aluminum. There is a Simple Green Extreme Aviation cleaner that Ai craft Spruce and others sell that cuts through oil beautifully. For basic cleaning, that works great.
 
AndyRV7 said:
What do you guys use to clean your planes? I'm thinking of oil on the belly, and drops of brake fluid at the moment.

I bought a spray bottle of "green" household cleaner/degreaser, but it doesn't do a very good job. Of the people's hangars I've visited, they always seemed to have some nice effective cleaners in generic, unmarked spray bottles. I'm wondering what other options I have.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have been using Arrow Magnolia "Carbon-X" on my RV (and other aircraft) for years to clean: exhaust stains, oil, brake fluid, and anything else that finds its way onto the belly of my aircraft. I always have used it full strength for the stubborn stains, dirt, oil, etc... However, after cleaning each section I always rinse the area thoroughly with water to remove any residual cleaner, and then wipe the area completely dry... You can get it from Sporty's, Skygeek, or See this link for what looks to be a very good price: http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php?products_id=2623

I usually do a belly cleaning 2 or three times per year, and although the instructions suggest a 20 to 1 dilution, I always have used it full strength. At full strength, Carbon-X easily cuts through everything I've encountered...

Good luck.

Victor
 
Cleaning Aluminum Aircraft Without Creating Corrosion
Years ago a small airline started using a cleaner on their aircraft. It worked great and all were happy. Then the trouble began. An aluminum skin aircraft has thousands of rivet holes, laps, seams, and crevices that absorb and trap whatever liquids are running down their surfaces. The cleaner cleaned but it also caused airplane corrosion. Not outwardly on the sides of the fuselage, but deep in the rivet holes, and seams where it was hidden from view. By the time the airline noticed the corrosion their entire fleet of aircraft had severe corrosion - everywhere!

Since then I have always been very careful as to what chemicals are allowed on my aircraft. Is it safe? Will that chemical cause corrosion? Will it soften the wire insulation? Will it weaken the composite pulleys? What is the long-term effect of the chemical residue that I cannot remove? Remembering that although I apply the cleaner diluted, it becomes concentrated as it evaporates.

The same questions apply to composite built aircraft. Is it safe? What will long-term exposure to chemical residuals do to my airplane?

The loss of Army Chinook near Fort Richardson, Alaska.


Fast forward to just a few years ago. The Army lost a Chinook helicopter because they did not heed the above advise. They used a simple product that is found in every grocery store.

"It has been brought to the attention of the U.S. Army Aviation Missile Command (AMCOM) Depot Maintenance Engineering Team that numerous units are using the commercial product SIMPLE GREEN as an aircraft wash. STOP! This product has been through Department of Defense (DOD) testing and was determined to be highly corrosive on aircraft aluminum and also a catalyst for Hydrogen Embrittlement. Hydrogen Embrittlement brought down Chinook Aircraft on 10 October 1992, near Fort Richardson Alaska...


How to Protect Your Airplane


Guidence is provided in the FAA Advisory Circular AC43-205. The following acceptance tests methods are outlined:


Sandwich Corrosion Test ASTM 1110
Immersion Corrosion Test ASTM F 483
Hydrogen Embrittlement ASTM F 519
Effect on Painted Surfaces ASTM F 502
Acrylic Crazing Test ASTM F 484
Residue ASTM F 485
Other tests that are sometimes required:
Rubber Compatibility Test ASTM D2240
Stress Corrosion of Titanium Alloys by Aircraft Engine Cleaning Materials ASTM F945
Low-Embrittling Cadmium Plate ASTM F1111
There are aircraft cleaning products that have passed all of these tests.

Let a neutral party examine and test the product at their expense than then report back to you their findings. How do you do this? Most of the larger aircraft manufacturer's test and approve cleaners. For example, EXTREME Simple Green has a Boeing specification D6-17487P . Some products pass or meet a mil-spec. Your best protection is to only use products that have been "blessed" by a major aircraft manufacturer or the military.



As a general rule - Avoid Alkaline Cleaners on Aluminum


Alkalines dissolve aluminum. A strong alkaline, such as drain cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide will completely dissolve aluminum. There are alkaline cleaners that have been modified to be acceptable. Generally they use silicates to modify the corrosion film.


Avoid Fluoride based Cleaners on Aluminum


The edges of your aluminum propeller receive a lot of abrasive wear and it is difficult for a protective coating to remain intact. The rough abraded surface can allow chemicals to enter the grain structure of the propeller and cause stress corrosion cracks. For this reason you want to be especially careful that you follow the propeller manufacturer's recommendations and do not apply some chemical cleaning agents to the bare aluminum.

Examination of the wreckage of a light aircraft revealed that approximately 20 cm was missing from one tip of the aluminum alloy propeller. Fractographic and metallographic examination of the remaining portion of the propeller revealed extensive grain-boundary separation in the vicinity of the fracture, and grain edges and corners rounded by corrosion on the fracture surface. Energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA) revealed fluorine on, and in the vicinity of, the fracture surface. In the ensuing litigation, it was asserted that the crash occurred because the propeller fractured in flight as the result of intergranular attack caused by the use of a fluorine-bearing cleaner.


Avoid Chlorine based Cleaners on Aluminum


As chemicals seep into laps and seems of your aircraft, the water evaporates and you get tiny small areas of very concentrated chemical. This is what caused the crash of the Army Chinook helicopter. It is also what caused the loss of Flight 529.


NTSB excerpts from crash of ATLANTIC SOUTHEAST AIRLINES, INC., FLIGHT 529

Laboratory examination of the failed blades indicated the presence of chlorine-based corrosion pits in both instances. The chlorine source was traced to a bleached cork installed in the taper bore to retain the lead balance wool. These findings were corroborated by Hamilton Standard engineers and the FAA

Results of investigations conducted in two previous propeller blade failures in 1994, one in Brazil with this model blade and the other in Canada with a similar model blade, indicated that corrosion was produced when entrapped moisture reacted with residual chlorine in a bleached cork used to retain the lead wool in the taper bore hole of the propeller. The accident blade exhibited a nearly continuous layer of oxide deposits on the initial 0.049 inch of the crack depth. These deposits contained a substantial amount of chlorine.



Stoddard Solvent - the traditional method


You have to wonder after all these years why there is so much confusion about cleaning aircraft and aircraft engine compartments? Before the rise of environmental concerns aircraft, engine compartments, engine parts, and almost everything else made of metal were washed in Stoddard Solvent. The mechanic walked out to the piston airplane with a 5 gallon bucket and a air siphon gun and would spray down the engine compartment and aircraft belly. Stoddard Solvent was a standard aircraft engine wash. Almost all aircraft facilities had "solvent booths" where they washed parts. You can still purchase Stoddard solvent, although it is hard to find.



Military Approvals for Aircraft Cleaners


MIL-C-22550 Cleaning Compound (Water-less) For Aircraft Surfaces
MIL-C-43616 Cleaning Compound For Aircraft Surfaces
MIL-C-87936 Cleaning Compound For Aircraft Exteriors


What Chemicals will your Repair Shop use on your Airplane?


Ask them beforehand rather than getting mad afterward.


Inspect the Airframe Before you Clean it


Unwashed airframes show problems better than washed airframes. Loose fasteners, fretting, fluid leaks appear as smudging and streaking ("smoking").
 
Wow, great food for thought. I don't think I've used the simple green on anything but my cowling once or twice where I dripped oil off the end of the funnel. Glad I asked. I am going to look into the mineral spirits and other products now. THANKS!
 
AndyRV7 said:
What do you guys use to clean your planes? I'm thinking of oil on the belly, and drops of brake fluid at the moment.

I bought a spray bottle of "green" household cleaner/degreaser, but it doesn't do a very good job. Of the people's hangars I've visited, they always seemed to have some nice effective cleaners in generic, unmarked spray bottles. I'm wondering what other options I have.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Non abrasive GOJO works well for dirty belly cleaning. I seem to see it on sale for a couple of bucks at the auto supply often enough.
 
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A local A&P/IA recommended this Totally Awesome cleaner from Wally world. It turned out my wife had some so I tried it and it is totally awesome on oil, grease and dirt.

I have a composite airplane so I wasn't worried about corrosion.

:cool:
 
+1 Mark
I use a paper towel and Mineral Spirits on the belly since I don't bother to wax down there.
 
Alcohol

I use plain old denatured or Isopropyl alcohol..works as good as 100LL (the old school favorite) Leaves no residue and hurts nothing. I have a smoke system on my -4, so I'm used to a messy belly. For the rest of the plane..I use water in a spray bottle after every flight on the canopy and bug smash areas. The cheapo microfiber towels from big box store are the bomb, can be washed. I have only "hose washed" my plane twice in 4 years and fly it often.
 
i have found a product that is hard to beat. http://www.finishfirstpolish.com

the polish is the best i have tried over clear coat. very easy to clean.
15.jpg
 
vasrv7a said:
I have been using Arrow Magnolia "Carbon-X" on my RV (and other aircraft) for years to clean: exhaust stains, oil, brake fluid, and anything else that finds its way onto the belly of my aircraft. I always have used it full strength for the stubborn stains, dirt, oil, etc... However, after cleaning each section I always rinse the area thoroughly with water to remove any residual cleaner, and then wipe the area completely dry... You can get it from Sporty's, Skygeek, or See this link for what looks to be a very good price: http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php?products_id=2623

I usually do a belly cleaning 2 or three times per year, and although the instructions suggest a 20 to 1 dilution, I always have used it full strength. At full strength, Carbon-X easily cuts through everything I've encountered...

Good luck.

Victor
Click to expand...

This is what we use at work, for the post-maintenance, pre-customer pickup wash of helicopters. Works like a champ.
 
vasrv7a said:
I have been using Arrow Magnolia "Carbon-X" on my RV (and other aircraft) for years to clean: exhaust stains, oil, brake fluid, and anything else that finds its way onto the belly of my aircraft. I always have used it full strength for the stubborn stains, dirt, oil, etc... However, after cleaning each section I always rinse the area thoroughly with water to remove any residual cleaner, and then wipe the area completely dry... You can get it from Sporty's, Skygeek, or See this link for what looks to be a very good price: http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php?products_id=2623

I usually do a belly cleaning 2 or three times per year, and although the instructions suggest a 20 to 1 dilution, I always have used it full strength. At full strength, Carbon-X easily cuts through everything I've encountered...

Good luck.

Victor
Click to expand...

+1 on Carbon-X. I use it diluted 20 to 1 and wipe the belly after Every flight. It must break down in water because after a few months the 20 to 1 solution looses its lime green color. I just mix up a new batch if I have any left. I do use full strength on occasion especially if I have gone, God forbid, two flights without cleaning the belly.
I do use mineral spirits and studied Stoddard solvent during conditional inspection.
 
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Belly Cleaning

Greetings! I found a degreaser offered by Global BioClean called AP-185. All natural, won't melt my skin (airplanes and mine), won't kill mother-nature, and it's non-toxic. I sprayed it on, waited a few minutes, and sprayed it off with a normal pressure hose and spray nozzle. On thicker spots I sprayed it on and scrubbed lightly with a brush. I found the stuff on Facebook, but it also has it's own website. www.globalbioclean.com. They advertise it to work on everything. I've been using lately to wash my car too! Highly recommend!
 
Dollar general store has a cleaner called LA's Totally Awesome. It's cheap, and full strength wipes grease and bugs right off.
I wash my car with it and use full strength on the planes belly. Label claims that it's suitable for airplanes. Sure does work.
 
....The absolute best thing is to install an ASA oil separator and vacuum system. That will eliminate the problem!
.... The second best thing we use is Jose Guerra, a kid that hangs out at the airport looking for rides. He is always happy to help and will not corrode aluminum or cause hydrogen embrittlement. :rolleyes:
 
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