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  #1  
Old 03-12-2022, 11:45 AM
CessnaTPA CessnaTPA is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Riverview
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Question Aviation Paint vs Automotive

What are the differences between aviation paint and automotive? Trying to figure out the pro's and con's.
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2022, 11:51 AM
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azrv6 azrv6 is offline
 
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2022, 12:32 PM
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WildThing WildThing is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CessnaTPA View Post
What are the differences between aviation paint and automotive? Trying to figure out the pro's and con's.
Everything and nothing. The short answer: it depends on the type paint. Basic enamel is the low end and 2 part polyurethane is the best. Basically, itís resistance to UV, and to a little lesser degree, abrasion and chemical resistance. If you hanger and routinely wax (or ceramic coat) you can get a pretty decent lifespan from enamel or itís upgraded cousins for less product cost. The polyurethanes retain their gloss MUCH better and have a longer lifespan with less maintenance.

You can actually apply and get a good finish with most polyurethanes yourself, without spraying, by using the ďroll & tipĒ method - if you donít mind spending a little more time. Itís typically done on boats, but the surface/vehicle is really irrelevant. Iím going to use a similar technique when I get to that point (Alexseal with roller additive).
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2022, 01:27 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Well, I learned something today: the meaning of roll and tip.

But after watching a video from Epifanes paint company showing how it's done, I'm going to pass. Sanding the entire airplane 4 times between coats is my chiropractor's dream but it's my nightmare.
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2022, 01:45 PM
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WildThing WildThing is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Well, I learned something today: the meaning of roll and tip.

But after watching a video from Epifanes paint company showing how it's done, I'm going to pass. Sanding the entire airplane 4 times between coats is my chiropractor's dream but it's my nightmare.
Yeah Bill, that's why I'm going to try the Alexseal in general, and with their roller additive in particular. Unlike most (all?) the other poly's, you don't need to sand between coats with Alexseal if you keep inside their re-coat window. I rolled-n-tipped my 38' sailboat with Awlgrip and it works like a charm. The downside, as you noted, is having to sand the whole thing after each coat I figure worse case with the RV - if there's too much orange peel, I'll just color sand and buff the final coat. Some spray guys do this as a routine part of their spray job because they just can't get a nice smooth wet-out.
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RV-8A - partially built - sold
RV-8A - flew for 3 yrs - sold
RV-8A - kit ordered - empennage: ARRIVED
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2022, 05:59 PM
Bandera Bandera is offline
 
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Aviation paint has better chemical and UV resistance and is more flexible. It also takes longer to dry due to the size of many planes. Can you get good results on your plane with automotive paint? Yes you can. The product is just tailored for a different market.
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2022, 11:37 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
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Apart from Aviation paint and Automotive paint there is also Industrial paint.
The expert at the paint shop, which sells all three, told me that there is not much difference between what's in the can for 2-pack polyurethane. However, the labels on the can and the price stickers differ.
I know several people who have successfully painted their metal aircraft using Industrial polyurethane, without any problems. The paint seems to be limited to solid colors and not pearlescent, metallic and other special effects.
This test piece (of a Toyota) has been sprayed with Valspar TB-520 Industrial polyurethane in 1.5 coats. It resists solvents including fuel, alcohol and acetone. I'd be happy to use it on my plane. Another option that I am aware of is Nason Industrial 610 or 620 and I've sprayed the cockpit using the 610 (adjusted to semi gloss level) with good results.
These paints require good respirators and protective clothing.
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Last edited by PaulvS : 03-13-2022 at 06:22 AM.
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  #8  
Old 03-13-2022, 06:12 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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The term "auto paint" ignores the wide range of products available. Some of it is formulated to meet a price, some for application ease, some for show.

FWIW, at 10+ years and 1000 hours, PPG Deltron has held up really well, notably the DCU2021 clear. Tough stuff.

I tell folks to go with whatever brand they sell at the friendliest auto paint shop in their town. For the novice, local help can be a big deal.
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  #9  
Old 03-13-2022, 07:16 AM
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storm_pilot storm_pilot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
The term "auto paint" ignores the wide range of products available. Some of it is formulated to meet a price, some for application ease, some for show.

FWIW, at 10+ years and 1000 hours, PPG Deltron has held up really well, notably the DCU2021 clear. Tough stuff.

I tell folks to go with whatever brand they sell at the friendliest auto paint shop in their town. For the novice, local help can be a big deal.
^^^^^^^^^^^
This X2!

FWIW I had great success with PPG delfleet on the boot cowl of my cub which was recommended by my friendly local PPG dealer after struggling with stewart systems garbage (never again!).
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2022, 10:48 AM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Once again - Dan is spot on.

When I finished our RV7 10 years ago, I went to the local auto paint supplier that had been recommended, he was brilliant because he was totally enthralled about the aeroplane thing and sat me down with plenty of coffee and gave me "Painting 101".

I still use his place for my supplies, although Brian has now retired. They still offer great advice, as does the local WhatsApp group that I am in with Brian.

I use a basic 2 part (not 2k)- 50/50 primer and activator/thinner (splash of celly) which is super easy to apply and is very tough.

Originally, I used stock car 2k paint, colours were fine - white was a bitch because it is loaded with heavy pigments.

Over the years, I have modified things and now use base coat and lacquer.

The base coat is a 1k product thinned 50/50 with appropriate thinners - it shoots great, any gilberts can be flatted and melted back into the base coat.

Then 2k clear lacquer.

Interior, it is flat - goes on super easy in a flash coat then fill coats.

Outside - gloss lacquer - again a mist coat....wait....wait then further fill coats.

Get advice, get good quality gear, shoot an HVLP gun at say 40psi so little overspray and practise with the primer - get your gun skills up to scratch and you will be fine.
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