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  #1  
Old 01-06-2017, 04:26 PM
asw20c asw20c is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Edgewood, NM
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Default Micro Molex Pins/Connectors

I spent several hours today in bright sunlight attempting to crimp those teeny tiny micro molex pins onto the teeny tiny 26 gage wires to mount in a molex connector for the elevator trim servo. I eventually was successful but not without a lot of swearing and multiple attempts. I have the BCT-1 crimping tool so that's not the issue, and eventually I got better with each pin in making the proper crimps without mangling the pin. No, the real problem was inserting the pins into the molex connector. Is there a special tool for this? It was almost impossible, and yes I did have them aligned properly for the key in each hole. God help me if I ever need to remove a pin for trouble shooting. How does one do that without destroying the pin/wire/connector?
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2017, 04:44 PM
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rmartingt rmartingt is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20c View Post
I spent several hours today in bright sunlight attempting to crimp those teeny tiny micro molex pins onto the teeny tiny 26 gage wires to mount in a molex connector for the elevator trim servo. I eventually was successful but not without a lot of swearing and multiple attempts. I have the BCT-1 crimping tool so that's not the issue, and eventually I got better with each pin in making the proper crimps without mangling the pin. No, the real problem was inserting the pins into the molex connector. Is there a special tool for this? It was almost impossible, and yes I did have them aligned properly for the key in each hole. God help me if I ever need to remove a pin for trouble shooting. How does one do that without destroying the pin/wire/connector?
If you're using the ones I'm thinking of (look like old school R/C servo connectors) I just used a magnifying headset, crimper, fine needle nose pliers, and careful finger pressure. AndI think a small plastic pushing stick?

I found the process somewhat enjoyable, actually.
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2017, 04:55 PM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
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I use D-Sub for everything small. I don't use Molex for anything.
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  #4  
Old 01-06-2017, 05:16 PM
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czechsix czechsix is offline
 
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Location: Spring Hill, KS
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I used a small connector for the pitch trim servo on my RV-8A, and later on I wondered why I bothered with a connector at all. Think about it: if you ever need to replace the trim servo, you're gonna have to install a new connector on the new servo which will come with bare leads. It's just as easy to use good quality crimped butt splices (e.g. AMP PIDG) to connect the servo leads to the wire harness. Leave an extra inch of slack in the harness, so in the unlikely event you ever need to replace the servo you can just snip out the old splices and install new ones.

Another technique I've seen for a low profile installation is to crimp D-sub pins & sockets on the servo and wire harness terminations, but instead of inserting them into D-sub connectors, simply plug them together with a piece of heat shrink over each pin/socket connection to insulate them and keep them from coming apart. This would not be a good idea if the wiring is ever likely to get yanked, but if it's properly supported/protected this is a clean way of connecting the servo to the harness without the bulk of a connector.

YMMV...
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2017, 05:28 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20c View Post
I spent several hours today in bright sunlight attempting to crimp those teeny tiny micro molex pins onto the teeny tiny 26 gage wires to mount in a molex connector for the elevator trim servo. I eventually was successful but not without a lot of swearing and multiple attempts. I have the BCT-1 crimping tool so that's not the issue, and eventually I got better with each pin in making the proper crimps without mangling the pin. No, the real problem was inserting the pins into the molex connector. Is there a special tool for this? It was almost impossible, and yes I did have them aligned properly for the key in each hole. God help me if I ever need to remove a pin for trouble shooting. How does one do that without destroying the pin/wire/connector?
After spending a day on a new RV-14 build tracking down an elevator trim servo wiring problem to one of these horrible connectors, I cut them out. These connectors are exceptionally fragile and the pin retaining clip breaks off. These connectors have no place in our RVs. Note - this connector was provided in the RV-14 kit.

I typically use a small molex for these servos. I use large pin molex plugs for anything with power, and D connectors for everything else.

Carl
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2017, 06:45 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Molex

Any connection up to 6 pins is .062" Molex. I have the tools (crimper and pin removal) and lots of practice from a previous life.
Over 6 pins is D-sub.
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2017, 07:10 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse View Post
I use D-Sub for everything small. I don't use Molex for anything.
Yes, you can get an 'Amen.' One life in consumer electronics, and another in industrial electronics taught me to just say no.

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  #8  
Old 01-06-2017, 07:32 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Different strokes for different folks....

If you search the forums you will find lots of posts from people who like the micro molex connectors a lot.
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2017, 09:11 PM
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BillL BillL is offline
 
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Aren't the mini used in the 12? Anyway, who thinks Molex can survive on making a single type of connector and terminal pins, they have dozens of different products.

OP: get the insert and extract tool. Oh - and a good headband magnifier. They are tricky little devils aren't they
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2017, 03:27 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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This is a timely thread for me. I had an intermittent issue in the trim servo wiring in my RV12. I think i will go with the Stein dsub method seen in this video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f8DCvBV2V4M
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