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K&P reusable oil filter

Just installed a new S15. My oil filter points directly aft toward the firewall recess. While the S15 is shorter than the standard 48108, I still can't get a torque wrench on the K&P supplied filter wrench without the handle running into the cowl attach flanges at the top of the firewall.

Any suggestions for how I can achieve the ~16-18 ft-lbs of torque recommended in the instructions? Any type of adapter available to provide an alternative method of torquing?
(For the old 48108's I just used the hand tight + 3/4 additional turn with the strap wrench method but the S15 filter is a different diameter and o-ring style so I'm not sure that would be the way to go.)

Suggestions appreciated.


Can you get a crows foot on the cup?
 
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Perhaps someone who has the space for a torque wrench can note the the distance of rotation next time they are mounting. Or make a simple jig off the plane and do some measurements.
 
Perhaps someone who has the space for a torque wrench can note the the distance of rotation next time they are mounting. Or make a simple jig off the plane and do some measurements.

I did this. What surprised me is, unlike a standard filter, the rotation was very small. I wouldn’t be comfortable using a mark to guesstimate torque, which was my original intent. I am also not confident that the seal, being reusable, doesn’t change over multiple uses.

Perhaps others have a different experience?
 
Not unless it is offset or I can get at the adapter from the fwd side. Is there such a thing? It would require a 3/8 square (socket) drive on the filter wrench end.

Short of creating your own tool, you could get a serpentine belt tool. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...elt-chain/serpentine-belt-tool-kit-63689.html

You could use the extender in lieu of a crows foot. It would allow you to put the torque wrench on either side. Or you could drill a hole in the longer bar at 1 foot and use a fish scale to pull the 16-18 lbs.
 
Any suggestions for how I can achieve the ~16-18 ft-lbs of torque recommended in the instructions? Any type of adapter available to provide an alternative method of torquing?
If you really want to get the torque right, and if you're afflicted as I am with New Tool Acquisition Disorder, a Tempest oil filter torque wrench is handy -

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/AA472.php

Not exactly cheap, but it's compact and works where/when needed.

HTH

Dave
 
Short of creating your own tool, you could get a serpentine belt tool. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...elt-chain/serpentine-belt-tool-kit-63689.html

You could use the extender in lieu of a crows foot. It would allow you to put the torque wrench on either side. Or you could drill a hole in the longer bar at 1 foot and use a fish scale to pull the 16-18 lbs.

Yeah. Something like this is what I'm thinking. If I can use the torque wrench from the forward side, I think it would work. My torque wrench will torque either clockwise or counterclockwise so I'd be OK there. Will see if I can find a short extender that's just a bit longer than the radius of the oil filter to help minimize any side load while I'm torquing it.
 
Yeah. Something like this is what I'm thinking. If I can use the torque wrench from the forward side, I think it would work. My torque wrench will torque either clockwise or counterclockwise so I'd be OK there. Will see if I can find a short extender that's just a bit longer than the radius of the oil filter to help minimize any side load while I'm torquing it.
I am using this with a standard torque wrench. No need to buy another tool that I already have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWG6DU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I am using this with a standard torque wrench. No need to buy another tool that I already have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWG6DU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. But the K&P S15 doesn't have a 1" nut on the end of the filter like the Challenger version does. Instead, it uses a standard cup wrench K&P supplies with a 3/8" square socket drive. So I'd be looking for a crow's foot similar to what you suggest except with the 3/8" square male on one end and a 3/8" square female on the other.
 
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I installed a K&P on my 7A at the beginning of the year and it also points straight back. I have the same clearance issue that you have.

I’ve done a couple of oil changes since I installed it. When it comes time to tighten to final torque, I have found that my torque wrench hits the firewall flanges (I have Camlocs on the top perimeter so they get in the way also) BUT, there are a couple of positions where on can get a few degrees of turn on the torque wrench - enough to get the filter torqued up to spec.

One of theses days I am going to buy a torque wrench with a flexible head. That should make the job much easier. If anyone knows where to get a good deal on a flex head torque wrench please let me know:)

P.S. When I bought the K&P, I thought I would have more space to fit a wrench. In retrospect, the higher priced Challenger filter probably would have given me more room to work. The “cap” tool used on the K&P adds more depth than I thought it would.
 
I did this. What surprised me is, unlike a standard filter, the rotation was very small. I wouldn’t be comfortable using a mark to guesstimate torque, which was my original intent. I am also not confident that the seal, being reusable, doesn’t change over multiple uses.

Perhaps others have a different experience?

I agree with you - I am running four of these on our four Lycomings, and it pretty much stops turning and the torque ramps up immediately thereafter with very little additional turn.

Fortunately, I have enough clearance on all of them to use the torque wrench on the cup adapter…barely!
 
I have a setrab equivalent as I supply them on my website and I use a standard socket.

D
 
YMMW, but I've used that S15 for what is now 600 hours = 12 times filter removal, inspection, cleaning, install.
Replaced the seal after 10X, though it was still oiltight alright :)

As for the torque, well, my access is limited too, but I'm an A&P (kinda) by trade, so have use that torque wrench which was grafted in my biceps/brain interface many years ago :D
 
If you use this....
band wrench.JPG

And set your torque wrench 90 degrees to the diameter of
the circle measured through the socket hole, the value on
the torque wrench will be correct. Even if you need to use a
short extension for the head of the torque wrench to clear.
 
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I used this on mine

Narrow deck O-540, your mileage may vary.
 

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K&P S15 user report:

- Installed on O-360-A1A, carbed, dual LSE EI, March 27th 2022
- Oil used is Total Aero DM 20W60
- Removed yesterday September 25th 2033
- Flight hours flown on filter 572:54
- Cleaned using brake cleaner and air at every oil change, as in every 50 hours
- X O-ring replaced only once, 50 hours ago, as precaution, no leak

Decided to install a new filter cartridge yesterday, as there seemed to be some crud, most probably carbon, in the filter mesh, see picture new vs old.
Took the filter home, and gave it a 30, then a 20 minute run in the ultrasonic cleaner, deionised water and metal detergent (EMAG EM-300). The first run resulted in black water, the second still resulted in brownish waste.
The cleaned filter now exhibits some areas looking like light corrosion, the bath could have been too long/aggressive, see 2nd picture.

Still quite happy using this reusable filter, but would once more advise all users to clean it at every oil change, intervals 50h max. It might be my engine, but some carbon coke is found every time, and a clogged (ok, there's the bypass, but...) oil filter could easily ruin one's day.
 

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Interesting data

Thanks Dan for sharing your findings.
Interesting even if yours is only one data point.
So a prudent practice would be to preventively replace the filter element every 10 oil changes/500 hours.
That still makes it worthwhile when considering 10 regular filters at $32 to $48 each for either Tempest or Champion...
If only the residue/filter of your element could be analysed in a lab. :rolleyes:
 
Yes Eric, I do concur :)
I've now taken the cleaned filter under my microscope, and... the brownish stuff looks more like still somehow adhering crud than corrosion :confused:
I'll give it yet another go at the ultrasonic cleaner tomorrow, though the 50' it's already been in there should have been plenty enough...
 

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Ok, gave the filter another run in the cleaner, 1 hour long at 80°C, still using the same detergent.
Happy to report the filter now being mostly clean. The stuff was just crud, no corrosion. Some discoloration remains though.

So what I’ll do from now on is to first try to clean exactly as described in the K&P Engineering vid https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YvsFN3PMRGE including soap and water, and if that’s not enough complement the process with the u-sonic cleaner.
Of course having 2 filter elements will facilitate this.
 
Oil Filter Safety Wire

I just came across this post and thought it might be of interest to those reading this thread.

Some, if not many of the "reusable" oil filters do not feature a means by which to safety wire them in position. Like many readers here, I've not personally had any of my oil filters back off during normal operations, on any piece of machinery.

The following article contains a cautionary tale. Oil filters can back off, resulting in oil loss. The context related within the story may speak to other procedural challenges which are worthy of some consideration for those of us performing our own maintenance. I guess it comes down to the old saying, "If you don't know, ask!"

https://generalaviationnews.com/202...e=TPOA&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20231003
 
Oil filters can back off, resulting in oil loss.

Absolutely, and the more so with the S15 and its X-ring, which is much thinner than a standard oil filter one, and therefore offers less friction.

OTOH it is very easy to drill a few holes on the top of the filter bell, as can for instance be seen here (already mentioned in yet another reusable oil filter thread https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=207816) and safety wire the bell.
There is really NO excuse not to secure an oil filter...
 

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Head slap time

OTOH it is very easy to drill a few holes on the top of the filter bell, as can for instance be seen here (already mentioned in yet another reusable oil filter thread https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=207816) and safety wire the bell.
There is really NO excuse not to secure an oil filter...

After drilling (17?) holes at all the flats, I thought of installing the filter, marking which one of the flats needs a hole then remove the filter and drilling just that one.
 
After drilling (17?) holes at all the flats, I thought of installing the filter, marking which one of the flats needs a hole then remove the filter and drilling just that one.

Just remember, the guts can go back in 3 different locations in relationship to the case. Mark it also.
 
RV 14-A and K&P question

I Have B&C oil filter adapter BC700-H (45 degree) with a CH48108 filter on my RV14 IO390. I have three questions:

1. Do the cooling fins on the S15 lower the oil temp? Current temp 184.
2. Is the K&P filter S15 the correct model for the IO390 using a CH48108?
3. Has anyone used the S15 and the B&C 45 degree adapter mount?

I think the length of the filters are similar.
 
I Have B&C oil filter adapter BC700-H (45 degree) with a CH48108 filter on my RV14 IO390. I have three questions:

1. Do the cooling fins on the S15 lower the oil temp? Current temp 184.
2. Is the K&P filter S15 the correct model for the IO390 using a CH48108?
3. Has anyone used the S15 and the B&C 45 degree adapter mount?

I think the length of the filters are similar.

Not an 390, but...

I did not notice any temp change, running for over a year.
I used the S15 as a replacement for the 48108
I am using the 90* B&C, no issues.
 
540 not a 390 but:
Yes I’m using the 45 degree adapter no issues.
No change in oil temperature but a very small increase in oil pressure.
There’s another thread somewhere speculating as to the reason.
 
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