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Dimpline .040" skin "in-place"

SabreFlyr

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Dimpling .040" skin "in-place"

I'm preparing to install the JD Air canopy latch on my QB -14 fuselage. I've removed the lower latch bracket but was studying the situation closely before cutting the new handle holes. I was also considering the new rivet holes that I'll be drilling for the new lower bracket position and that those holes will need to be dimpled. I've not had much luck with Cleaveland's close-quarters dimpling tool on thicker sheet like this. In such cases, the finish nail used when dimpling thicker material simply pulls through the die. There's a slim chance that I may be able to maneuver the yoke of my squeezer through the new holes as there's about 1/16" leeway with the yoke's thickness but I'm not counting on that. If you've succeeded in such a situation, how did you accomplish it?
 
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A couple of possibilities come to mind.

. Get some stronger nails for your dimple dies
. Consider carefully machine countersinking since it’s .040 material
. If your squeezer yoke is too close, consider grinding it a little to give you enough room to do what you want. I’ve done this with a couple of squeezer yokes and they still work just fine. I’ve even flattened a side of a pop rivet dimple die to make it fit in a tight location.
 
Dimpling .040"?

Dimpling .040"? I'd be surprised if you can get a crisp dimple using any method on sheet that thick...
 
There are several ways to do something like this. My go to is a home-made setup that holds one die in a heavy brass drift on one side and the other die in a brass tipped rivet set with the gun turned down low. Nothing special about them being brass, just what I had laying around at the time.

In a pinch, I've also used a heavy wood block to hold a die on the inside and then put the other die in a cheap nut driver and tap it with a mallet. That option usually requires three hands to hold everything though.

Here's a picture of my setup for option 1
 

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Dimple and then machine

There are some good suggestions above.

I would dimple first using the pulled rivet tool, and then follow up with the machine countersink to finish it off.

I've found that even in the best of situations the .040 is a bit difficult to dimple nicely, furthermore the pulled rivet dimpler is generally less effective than the squeeze dimpler.
 
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Dimpling .040"? I'd be surprised if you can get a crisp dimple using any method on sheet that thick...

Try it -- I've had good luck dimpling .040" parts, it does require a little more "oomph" (...furlongs per fortnite...or something) than .016 - .032"
 
S.Flyer,

I think if you'll double check, you'll find that the skin is .032.

I too had trouble getting to like the close quarter dies. Initially my dimples weren't crisp and I thought the dies were junk. The nail they sent would break and the dimples were of poor quality. Ultimately, I learned that the nails they sent were junk and the dies are just fine!

I found that using a basic #6 finish nail found at Home Depot, Menards, etc. works nicely. At first you'll find that some of the nails will go right through the dies while others won't.

If the nail won't go through the die, it's just the resin on the nail. A quick wipe with some old ScotchBrite will take the resin off and they'll go right through. When using the puller, I think you'll find that it won't be necessary to break the nail, just squeeze the grips to the point where you think you've made a good dimple and check. Replace the nail after each use.

I used the dies on my JD Air Latch on my -14 with good success...and some might say I'm a bit "picky".

After using the finish nail, I liked the dies enough and have actually purchased a set of the #30s.

Good Luck
 
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S.Flyer,

I think if you'll double check, you'll find that the skin is .032.

Oops! You're right. I had just checked the skin around my vent inlet with calipers. Might be a little bit of deburring needed there.

I found that using a basic #6 finish nail found at Home Depot, Menards, etc. works nicely. At first you'll find that some of the nails will go right through the dies while others won't.

If the nail won't go through the die, it's just the resin on the nail. A quick wipe with some old ScotchBrite will take the resin off and they'll go right through. When using the puller, I think you'll find that it won't be necessary to break the nail, just squeeze the grips to the point where you think you've made a good dimple and check. Replace the nail after each use.

Hadn't considered that it might just be resin keeping my finish nails from working. I'll check that out. Thanks!

I think my plan now is to see what I can accomplish with my squeezer and go with the pulled dies for the rest.
 
If you have some access to the back side, ACS sells a dimpling bucking block and rivet set, ref #12-00805. It's not cheap, but it works really well, just be extra careful. I used it a few times, was very happy with the results.
 
If you have some access to the back side, ACS sells a dimpling bucking block and rivet set, ref #12-00805. It's not cheap, but it works really well, just be extra careful. I used it a few times, was very happy with the results.

12-00805.jpg


As Patrick says, it works great. I have had one for more than 30-years.

You could also make your own using a heavy chuck of steel and drill a 3/16" hole it it to accept the die.
 
Bucking bars

...

As Patrick says, it works great. I have had one for more than 30-years.

You could also make your own using a heavy chuck of steel and drill a 3/16" hole it it to accept the die.

Set of these are very handy and easy to fabricate. I use them for holding dies for dimpling and also to drive out drilled rivets. I also have a ram with a hole to accept dies and a pin punch for tapping out rivets. Turn the pressure WAY down and feather gently.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7...=sharing&resourcekey=0-Bonw_QIwhIbyoVSUcmK_dg
 
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