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IO-540-K1F5 Aerostar engine 295 HP

F

fixnflyr

Member
I am thinking of building a couple of RV-10s and was wondering if the IO-540-K1F5 295HP engine would work OK in the RV-10 airframe. It has a 3 blade Hartzell HC-C3YR-2UF prop. These two engines push my Aerostar 600 along at 200kts and 28 gal/hr. My Aerostar is a project now, out of annual for several years, with mid time engines. I think the engine/prop combo would be a good fit with the cruise speeds almost the same.
This is the angle valve engine and may be heavier than a parallel Lycoming.
Anyone with first hand knowledge.
Thanks,
Fixnflyr
 
Not a great choice

I am going from memory here, but I think that that engine is heavier and also a bit wider. If it is a rear induction it can't be made to fit. Ask me how I know. If it is not rear induction it probably can be made to fit, but extra work all around.

Gary
 
The Aerostar is a great plane. My business partner had one for years and we went all over the country in style with the Aerostar. He sold it and got the Citation. The Aerostar crashed in the south a few years ago.

Best of luck with the 10 and your Aerostar projects!
 
A non-booted 600A will stomp anything below 15k. A friend of mine has one and it's on my bucket list to own one. Well built and nice to fly.
 
Engine fit

Given that we put angle-valve 4-cylinder engines in the 2-seat RV's, I would not think there would be any problem with the angle-valve 6 in an RV-10.

If it is rear-induction, it is not THAT difficult to remedy. 2 Choices, you can find a forward-induction sump and swap, or you can take the sump to a machinist to have the front induction port opened, thread the case for studs, and make a blank-off plate for the rear port. Lots of people have done that.

There are some virtues to the angle-valve engines although they are a bit heavier than a parallel-valve engine.
 
Angle Valve

scsmith said:
Given that we put angle-valve 4-cylinder engines in the 2-seat RV's, I would not think there would be any problem with the angle-valve 6 in an RV-10.

If it is rear-induction, it is not THAT difficult to remedy. 2 Choices, you can find a forward-induction sump and swap, or you can take the sump to a machinist to have the front induction port opened, thread the case for studs, and make a blank-off plate for the rear port. Lots of people have done that.

There are some virtues to the angle-valve engines although they are a bit heavier than a parallel-valve engine.
Click to expand...

I ended up with an angle valve 4 cyl.with fuel injection in my RV-8. At first, I was relunctant but it was such a great deal that I couldn't pass it up. Now i am very, very happy that I have it!:):):D Even before I installed the dual electronic ignition, I consistantly burned about a gal. per hour less than my 180 hp buds when I throttled back to stay with them.

I'd say if it fits, go for it! You will end up about 50lbs heavier though.
 
Yes this one has the rear induction. The Aerostar set up uses a scat hose from the rear upper baffling to the airfilter box on the firewall and the out of the airfilter box to the induction manifold facing aft.
How much room is between the firewall and magnetos on the RV-10? I guess we also have to think about the nose gear clearance also if trying to use the rear induction and Gary said it would not work for him.
The intake on this engine is not a large casting with room for the throttle body on the front. It also uses the O-rings to seal the manifold tubes and not worm clamps.
Fixnflyr
 
I have an IO 540 K1G5 on my Rocket, but it was modified with new ECi parallel valve cylinders, 9.5:1 pistons, a low profile sump, and an AirFlow Performance FM200 fuel injection system. The original 540 K1G5 had angle valves and was pretty heavy; with the ECi cylinders, mine is much lighter (1,283 lb. for a Rocket is more than the "book" says but still just about what everyone is seeing when they're finished).

I never had it dynoe'd but it seems pretty strong and runs very reliably...it's very smooth too---once it "broke in" (seated the rings and cooled down), is hasn't given me any problems whatsoever in over 400 flights (including today!). If you do something similar, you should get excellent results. Everyone from Van on down, says get every pound out of the airplane you reasonably can; I'm confident that is very good advice.


Lee...
 
Watch the weight. Most -10's, mine included, are already a bit nose heavy. I need to carry 20 lbs minimum in the baggage area when I fly solo. Of course it helps if you want to load up the baggage area. I'm just suggesting you run the cg numbers and see what they would look like.
 
The angle valve engine will not fit in the stock -10 cowl. It could work, but will require a lot of modifications. Also, CG will be an issue.
 
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