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Cowl Flaps

Nick

Well Known Member
A few of you have inquired about my cowl flaps. I thought it best to start a new thread, so here we are!

Background: As we all know, the 10 has had a problem with cooling. The solution for almost everyone was to add Louvers. The idea of Louvers isn't a bad one, but I thought I would try something different. The problem with Louvers (IMO) is they work great for cooling in climb, but in cruise when you don't need the extra cooling they are still there dumping air (drag) in all phases of flight.

Compounding this, are the reports at the time stating that the James cowl ran even hotter than the stock Vans cowl. We had elected early on to go with the James, and now I wanted to make sure that wasn't a mistake!

Anyone contemplating doing this has probably figured out the same thing I did. There simply isn't any room to do a proper cowl flap. The exhaust gets in the way! Our wonderful Muffler/Heat box is simply so large that it fills the bottom cowl. I know of one gentleman that his workaround was to make his cowl flaps open all the time. This works great for cooling, but the drag is simply too high.

I designed up a cowl flap that the inside edge moves clear of the Muffler. I was hoping for the best of both worlds, great cooling in climb, without the drag penalty in cruise.


The end result has been very positive. With no additional Louvers, stock James exit and cowl flaps: Climb temps CHT's @ 115-120 knts 400-418. Our #1 is the hottest and will get to 420 first at which point I'll lower the nose a tad. We are still able to climb in the 1000-1500 FPM range. Oil temps in climb are stable in the 218-222 range.

Once leveled off, I'll leave the CF open until all CHT's are under 400. Close everything up and CHT's get stable between 375-395, oil temp 200-205. In the middle of the Texas summer those will be a little higher, but still manageable. CHT's 402-385, Oil Temp 205-210.

In nearly 200 Hrs of flying I've not found to be temperature limited in any normal operations. What I can NOT do is climb to 15000ft @ 2000 fpm. I can make it to 10,000 but by that time the oil temps are in the 225 range and CHT's are all pushing just over 420. We set our personal CHT limit to 420 in hopes of extending cylinder life.

I am currently prepping for paint, and with that included some cowl make overs. I'm re-doing the Plenum in hopes of getting a better seal, and a more even CHT spread. I'm re-doing the cowl flaps (external portion only) to achieve a better seal when closed. I've also done some other "stuff" under the cowl in the attempt to clean up the exit air. I'll know in a few months if it was successful.



I'll apologize in advance. The pictures are terrible. I took those months ago with my old phone... If enough interest is expresses I can probably be talked into getting some higher quality shots.

Also included is a short movie I made with Solidworks to show the full operation. It?s a little large (3.5M) so give it a min when loading.

Enjoy!

How they work: Solidworks Animation































 
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I have a 7a also with a James cowl and the cooling is lets say "optimised for cruise"..In oher words a little marginal in climb.

I been thiking about doing this for some time..Nice job.

Frank
 
Yes this is that RV-10

Rocket 100, 2010 11/20/10 RV Gold RV-10 Nafsinger, Nick 191.47kts 220.34mph

Bob Axsom
 
Nick, really nice stuff you have there, thanks for showing it.

How are you activating the linkage inside the cockpit?
 
Is that a flap actuator your driving the flaps with?

Why do you need the inner hinged sidewall of the flap itself?..What would happen if that wasn't there and you made the stop on the non hinged side?

Frank
 
Is that a flap actuator your driving the flaps with?

Why do you need the inner hinged sidewall of the flap itself?..What would happen if that wasn't there and you made the stop on the non hinged side?

Frank

Similar... Firgelli Linear Actuator


At the time I had difficulty finding a Linear Actuator that would work... This one works great but is HEAVY. There have been a bunch of new products out since I built mine that would work equally as well and weigh a fraction.

The inner sidewall is hinged to clear the Muffler/Heat Box when closed. There just isn't any spare room in the bottom of the -10 cowl. On a -7 there wouldn't be any reason to hinge the side, making it a super simple install.
 
No my point is..what if you didn't have the side at all?

If the flap door is stiff enough then in theory you don't need the second side no?
 
No my point is..what if you didn't have the side at all?

If the flap door is stiff enough then in theory you don't need the second side no?

Ahhh, I understand now!

My thinking was to create a 'box' for the air to exit. I'm trying to create a vacuum when the flaps are open. With one (or both) sides open I don't think they would be as effective, but I've never tried.

On mine I actually don't need the sides as a stop. The travel is limited by the Actuator.
 
Nick, there must be a huge temp penalty for the James cowl, even with the cowl flaps.

I live in a pretty hot part of the world as well, and if I climb out at my normal 110-120 I see CHT's of no more than 375F, usually in the 355-365 range, and in the cruise about 330 in summer and 300 in winter.

Maybe the standard cowl is a bit slower? But not by much I would think. Any ideas on what the pro's and con's really are in your experience.
 
Louvers

Nick,
I agree with your thinking that one should be able to open and close cowl flaps.
I jumped on the " not enough cooling" band wagon before I made my first flight and installed a set of fixed louvers.
Although it's not hot around here yet I see CHT in the mid 250F in cruise(way too low) and never even get close to 400F even in a max sustained climb and all of this during engine brake in time. Oil temps are hard to keep up too but here I have a butterfly valve to control the temperature.
Like OZ said, it really is an issue with the james cowl and other engine mods.
 
Cowl design

Seems to me that the actual problem with the James cowl is the inlets, which are too small to deal with the climb portion of the flight envelope. A fella named Roncz once told me that the inlets should be the primary driver/1st design consideration, and the exit should be throttled to reduce drag. As an example, see what DanH is going with his cowl, which follows that line of logic.

The James design uses high speed inlets, which are very sensitive to the ramp shape behind them. You might have a look there and gain some cooling by slight tweaking of the ramp shape.

In fact, high speed OUTLETS are what you want for less drag.

Also, you might tuft the outlet to see if you have flow reversal with the cowl flaps open. It is possible!

Carry on!
Mark
 
Another approach....?

Just a thought, instead of cowl flaps why not a method to block the louvers?

On my louvers I could modify them to be flat on the inside, leaving the existing slots in the cowl. I could then install metal plate with matching slots that could slide to open or closed. Wouldn't this do the same thing as the cowl flaps? This could easily be retrofitted and if the flow from the louvers could be reduced at cruise, the result should be reduced drag, correct?
 
Has anyone ever made slots in the bottom of the cowling say 6 inch long by 1/2 and put 6 of then in a row spaced 3/4 inch apart and use a slide of aluminum to cover them controlled with a pull cable.? Very close to an idea of a centeral heater outlet on your house where there is a slide inside to open or close the amount of air coming out? Is this a viable idea.? to increase cooling for the bottom of the pressure area during a climb

_______
_______
_______
_______
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Then use two angle brackets on the outside of the slots on our drawing runnng from top to bottom and make an aluminum slide that would slide over the slots thus closing them or keeping then open for climbing. The angle brackets could be tied to a cable to open or close the slide over the cutouts in the cowling. Trying to make a louver that takes up no space on the bottom of the cowling for cooling.

If this makes any sense... let me know.

Thanks
Smilin' Jack.
 
Yep I see what you mean, Nice thing if you did what were thinking of if it did not work... Just rivet it shut. :)

Or partially open :) :) :)

Smilin' Jack
 
No louvers for first 25 hrs.

I wanted to see what the factory louvers did for me. I have an oil cooler damper installed. Before bending tabs and cutting slots, but after 10 hrs of break in/phase I: oat= 30-50F, cht's 390-400F during 105-110 kt climbs, oil temps with damper open= 190-200 during climbs and 160-170 during cruise, 65% pwr cruise cht's= 330-350F. I had to barely close damper to get cruise oil temp up to 180F.

After bending tabs/cutting slots at 25 hrs I noticed 65% cruise cht's drop to 290-315F, oil cooler has to be closed completely to maintain 180 @ 35F oat.

I think a flat plate on bottom of existing louvers that slides back and forth would be great. I won't be adding this for the following reasons: weight, one more checklist item, one more thing to break, and something else to unhook to get the lower cowling off. Besides 145 ktas, 5500', 9.7 gph, 16 mpg and 60% cruise is good enough for me and my family.
 
Great idea!!!

I am building a Rocket and live where its hot and humid, at a whole 10 feet above sea level, so cooling is a worry.

The slide covering the louvers from the inside is wonderful and can be rigged either manually or by servo.

Thats why I come here......
 
nice work Nick. I've thought about adding cowl flap to my -7. Like Frank said, mine also is optimized for cruise.
 
cooling

nice work Nick. I've thought about adding cowl flap to my -7. Like Frank said, mine also is optimized for cruise.

I have considered cowl flaps and have seen fixed louvers for cooling. fixed louvers are too much here in the NW, but cowl flaps are an option for higher range of cooling options in hot weather which don't need to be utilized in cooler weather.

Louvers seen on bottom of rv cowlings with a closeout option may work for summer vs winter. I also have seen a cooling box shroud around the exhaust/cooling port at the bottom rear of the cowl looking like it created more vacuum. That seems a good start for a -7. The -10 makes much more heat.

Any thoughts?
 
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