What's the best method of finishing leading and trailing edge Rudder

I am new to this site, and building for that matter. I am finishing up the empennage kit, and it has been pretty straight forward so far. I am to the point where I need to form the leading and trailing edges of the Rudder. I read a bunch on how to do it, but is there a best way? Using the angle brace method how do you keep the tank sealant from sticking to the angle and clecos? I will start with that I guess. Donation is on the way also

ldknepp said:

I am new to this site, and building for that matter. I am finishing up the empennage kit, and it has been pretty straight forward so far. I am to the point where I need to form the leading and trailing edges of the Rudder. I read a bunch on how to do it, but is there a best way? Using the angle brace method how do you keep the tank sealant from sticking to the angle and clecos? I will start with that I guess. Donation is on the way also

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Several ways:
1. Be neat, no there's no need to slather in gobs of sealant.
2. Use packing tape on the angle and the exterior of the skin to cover it, then peel it up when you're done.
3. The clecos will come right out, then you get to clean them up with MEK.
4. Be sure to run a deburring tool lightly in the dimples after all this, before trying to set the rivets, to remove any sealant on the outside of the skins inside the dimple.

Yep, get that donation in - - .

If you put a layer of packing tape down, it will not stick, the clecos will get goo on them but get a jar you can put a top on - glass is best, and put acetone in, and drop in the clecos. I wipe them off before dropping, a 3 sec each, then when removing and wiping what will come out, later -oil it and cycle with the cliché tool , and wipe until the goo is all gone.

Learn to use the google search function for VAF - - site:vansairforce.com search1 +search2 +search3

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=110860 - - using - - site:vansairforce.com trailing edge rivet squeezing

Look for techniques for setting the trailing edge rivets, including squeezing. This is tricky to do without smilies. This will be your first big test to research methods and try on "scrap" before experimenting on your good parts.

I don't know about being the "best way" but this worked for me:

Order an extra set of dies for your squeezer.

Start by putting the clecos in every other side. Don't install them starting at one end and working towards the other but scatter them. (If you put all the clecos in from the same side, the rudder will warp. No harm, just reinstall every other cleco from the other side.)

Take those extra squeezer dies and ground them to form an angle that matches the trailing edge of the rudder.

Then remove the center cleco, insert a rivet, and using your modified dies, partially squeeze it. Then do the same with the rivets one either end. Remember to partially squeeze them. (I put the rivets in from both sides, same as the clecos.)

Then remove the clecos that are half way between the center rivet and the end rivet and half set a new rivet in that location. Keep doing that until all the rivets are half set. Keep an eye on the rudder and "move" it, if needed.

Once all the rivets are half set, finish setting them in the same sequence that they were half set.

Yes, it took some time but it was worth it.

Again, keep an eye on your trailing edge to make sure it is straight.

Welcome

Welcome Larry.
Good name and choice.

One of the tricks with proseal is using wax paper. Spread a thin layer on both sides of the wedge and trailing edge and add a dollop the size of a wad of gum at the intersection of each set of stiffeners at the trailing edge. Cleko it and wipe off excess then. Place a strip of wax paper on the angle before the rudder trailing edge is clekoed. Proseal won't stick to it.
Just don't use MEK to clean up after. Leave it for at least a week to fully cure before setting rivets.

Search on rolling leading edges. Many use pipe and J-hooks. I rounded the ends of the J-hooks so the edge can slide under the hook. I prefer two pipes. One 1/2", one 3/4". Each is drilled in several places for Phillips screwdriver to use as leverage. Break the top edge first just a little. I start the bend with gorilla tape the length of the skin, lay the 1/2" pipe down, smooth the tape tight and roll a little. Maybe 1/4-1/2 turn. Switch to 3/4 and roll as far as the J-hooks will allow. Watch so you don't bend anything with the hooks. Flip and repeat on the opposite side. Massage till the two sides lay flat when clekoed together. Take your time.

In addition to the suggestions already made, I purchased a 6' piece of 1/4" x 4" steel from a local metal shop and used that as a continuous back rivet plate. It has come in handy a few times, and I think cost about $30.

I guess I am the odd man out here. I just followed the directions and the rudder turned out fine.

i'll ssecond what charles said.