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Cleaveland Static Port Installation

Some builders use Tank Sealant to mount the static ports and Cleaveland suggests you use RTV Silicon. Any reasons why to use one and not the other?
 
one consideration for silicone is that if you have a woopsie and get it where you don't want, you'll have a heck of a time cleaning that area well enough to get paint to stick to it.
 
Funny this should come up the day after I "tested" the bonding strength of proseal on the ports.

Proseal was awesome to use on the trailing edges of the rudder and the elevators.

However, I tried installing the Cleveland static ports two days ago. I thoroughly scuffed the aluminum on the skins and on the flange of the ports. Then cleaned with acetone. I then applied a coating of proseal to both surfaces and installed with pressure holding everything in place.

After 24 hours I put some lateral force on the ports and was surprised at how easily they came loose.

I am thinking that I will use another adhesive...maybe RTV silicone or an epoxy.

Open to suggestions.

Andy
 
They both stick really good and I have not had any issues with RTV that has been used for 10+ years. If you have proseal handy, by all means and if you don't RTV works great.
 
some folks have used JB Weld to attach the Cleaveland static ports, and so did I.

_Alex
 
If you use ProSeal, it will take longer to fully cure than RTV. Works great, but it does need to fully cure. Upside is that it’s paintable and won’t contaminate a surface like RTV will.
 
If you use ProSeal, it will take longer to fully cure than RTV. Works great, but it does need to fully cure. Upside is that it’s paintable and won’t contaminate a surface like RTV will.

Anybody is planting on painting the inside portion of this area? But if you are, then be careful using RTV.
 
I'm using the Dynon static ports which I flush riveted in place. Don't know how the Cleavland ports are designed, but the Dynon ports have a fairly large flange.
 
When people mention the RTV adhesive is that the black RTV adhesive silicone. If so, I have some and will likely try it tonight.

Report on its success pending!
 
Safe Air hybrid

I used the Vans rivet outside and SafeAir inside. Proseal and rivets in the flange through the side skin. They won't be moving.
 
I used PTM&W ES6247 two-part adhesive to stick my static ports to the inner fuselage skin. It is pricey stuff but I also used it in various other places like sticking on the NACA vents and to bond the fiberglass to the canopy plexiglass and aluminum. I tested the bond with two scrap pieces of aluminum and was unable to pull them apart without totally mangling the 0.040 thick pieces.
 
When people mention the RTV adhesive is that the black RTV adhesive silicone. If so, I have some and will likely try it tonight.

Report on its success pending!

Yes, the black RTV works great. I was told by VANS that the Red RTV is a bit better since it is a bit acidy and does not dry hard. But the Red due to being acidy is also corrosive but as I understand it only for the duration that is curing.
 
I plan on using the clear, electrical friendly, adhesive silicone that I used to seal the elevator trim servo connector. Seems better to use this than mixing up another batch of pro seal.
 
As a new builder I get very confused as to when to use the various different adhesives/sealants. Added to that every person has personal preferences from experience, accessibility and budget. Anyone know of a guide to the uses and properties of products like pro seal, jb weld, RTV silicone, epoxy, etc.
 
As a new builder I get very confused as to when to use the various different adhesives/sealants. Added to that every person has personal preferences from experience, accessibility and budget. Anyone know of a guide to the uses and properties of products like pro seal, jb weld, RTV silicone, epoxy, etc.

This article is on sealants. Not exactly adhesives. Yes personal opinion and preferences plays into it a lot. I used JB weld for my Cleveland static port. I use it a lot however not where flexing is a concern.

https://www.kitplanes.com/best-practices-sealants/
 
3M Automotive Trim Adhesive maybe

I'm going to try 3M Automotive Trim Adhesive to glue the Cleaveland static ports to the aluminum skin. I've used it before to fix some automotive exterior trim and its years old and still holding, even going through automatic car washes. I got a new tube, scuffed some aluminum and a similar sized steel washer, cleaned with acetone and applied the cement then held it with tape. After 24 hours--recommended full cure time, I couldn't pull the washer off with my hands. I'm sure I can break it free with a hammer and cold chisel but hope my airplane never gets that treatment. Don't know if it is paintable but it was easy to clean up edges before securing with tape. Just a suggestion
 
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