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Better quality switch breakers ?

RKellogg

Well Known Member
Is there a better brand of switch breaker out there? Yesterday at a remote airport 700 miles from home the FLAPS switch breaker broke. The 'bakelite' just cracked apart apparently, no scorched / arc'd / baked evidence. In this application, the breaker gets one cycle per flight. Plane has just 100 hours (of predominately cross-country flights). Was able to port the flaps over to the 5A fuel pump breaker to get home. But it might have been more unpleasant if it had failed in the air, rather than on the ramp. - Roger
 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/klixon7270.php?clickkey=4055

7270-1.jpg
 
Queston

It would help if we knew what brand you are using now. Tyco, Klixon?
I use the Tyco W31's a lot as the Klixon 7271-1 are a lot more money, but in some cases like flaps, fuel pump or radios-master I can see it justified. I must tell you though we have had little problems with the Tyco W31 breakers. They have worked well for long times. You can also get one of the push-pull breakers and substitute it for a toggle type if you wish, both Klixon and Tyco are good to go for them. There are other All-Electronic breakers out there today, but we have had little field use with them and don't know how they are going to hold up over time. I have a 15 amp. Tyco on both my flaps and IO-360 fuel pump, may be a 20 on that one, but if any thing, it is a good idea to carry a spare 10 and a 20 in your tools kit in baggage.
This may not do much to help, but I hope it does. Yours as always. R.E.A. III #80888
 
Google "Tyco WX31 Bonaza" and you will see that this series of switch/breaker has had a history of failures in the Bonanzas and other aircraft. Tyco revised the design of certain units based on a first round of failures that the FAA issued an AD on. Apparently the new version just fails in different ways. In both cases had fire in the cockpit.

It may have to do with loading near rated limits, I don't know, but something to consider.
 
Do you really want cheap switch/breakers?

As Dan has stated, go check out what others have experienced. I too had a W31 that failed.... They work fine as switch, problem is my failure mode was that it wouldn't open when shorted.... $130 is cheap insurance.
 
condition inspection ?

As Dan has stated, go check out what others have experienced. I too had a W31 that failed.... They work fine as switch, problem is my failure mode was that it wouldn't open when shorted.... $130 is cheap insurance.

Hmm. So should each circuit breaker be deliberately shorted to verify that it will trip? ...Maybe as part of annual condition inspection?

BTW, I really do not like the 'feel' of the switch action on these switch breakers. Mushy, indistinct, vague. And just a light tap causes them to switch to the "off" condition.

I think I am starting to favor a good, accessible fuse block feeding conventional switches... reliable, inexpensive, simple failure modes, easy recovery, but more panel space.

- Roger
 
Testing C.B.'s

That's exactly how I found mine faulted. I checked it before installation, but testing them at some interval, annual condition insp or such may not be a bad idea. I guess that's an individual choice. And you're right, the old fuse is hard to beat, if panel space allows......
 
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