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RV-7 3D Panel Design

rph142

Well Known Member
Heres my first crack at designing my panel. It will be dual Dynon HDX screens with their suite of panels in the center. The large rectangle is a rough model of the Garmin 175 and the three small rectangles below it are the dynon autopilot disconnect, ident, and dimmer modules. The two large circles on either side of the dynons are vents modeled after steins large vent option. Id like the ability to fly this plane from left or right seat, which necessitates the Pmag switches and push to start button located in the center. The small switch to the right of the start button will be flaps. The last two items that I'm struggling to find a home for are the cabin heat and oil cooler door push pull cables. Throttle and mixture will be mounted in a carbon fiber center console that Im fabricating using 3D printed moulds.

Panel.JPG
 
Nice design

Are you building a tip-up or slider? The supports from the sub-panel to the panel have to be relocated, at least on my tip-up. So it’s an interesting design effort to relocate them.

I’m not familiar with the Stein vents. They are too large to fit next to the skins just under the panel?
 
I'm building a tip up and figured I'd have to do some surgery on the supports to make everything work. I thought about placing the vents in the typical area as you mentioned, but I kind of like a more direct breeze. Id really prefer the downward breeze that you get in a high wing, but this will have to do.

For those newish to solidworks, you can find free 3d models for nearly every piece of hardware imaginable on the mcmaster site. I found the toggle switches and locking toggles on there. I was surprised to find garmin doesn't provide 3d models of their equipment.
 
You can make a standard width radio stack in the middle and run the side walls between the panels as your supports. 30 years later and i'm still surprised this isn't the default configuration on all RV's.
 
Panel cofiguration

For the center stack the GPS 175 is a shorter unit so putting it at the top of the stack doesnt require a large cutout for the top center of the subpanel behind the instrument panel. Making a mockup cardboard instrument panel will help with getting the subpanel cutouts in the right place and right size and reduce the number of scrapped parts.
KT
 
... The large rectangle is a rough model of the Garmin 175....

FYI the previously mentioned file labeled "G3X 3D Models (.STEP)" at https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?productID=166058&tab=manuals contains the GPS 175.

... the three small rectangles below it are the Dynon autopilot disconnect, ident, and dimmer modules....

Those modules are large. You can save space by using your own buttons for for AP disconnect and ident and the dimmer can be a potentiometer of ~5k Ohms. (dynonsupport said on the Dynon Forum "You can use a 1K Ohm or greater potentiometer to create this voltage." and one customer on the forum seems to have used a 10k pot.)

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Draker posted the Van's push pull knob (A-740) and throttle, prop, and mixture knobs as well as some other items. https://vansairforce.net/community/showpost.php?p=1393207&postcount=58
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BF7ABCAA-5F33-4745-9C15-DEB33CBB4663.jpg

My panel is similar to yours. I’d move the vents from the main panel. Save the space for other things but also routing the vent tubes up to them on panel might be a pain. Also, if you are building a tip up, you can reach in from the side of the panel to work on things, standing on the ground in front of the wing.
 
This is great feedback. In addition to moving the vents down, I’ll be deleting the three Dynon buttons and most likely swapping out the 175 for a 375. This will require a gma 345 to manage the extra com, but then I can delete the Dynon intercom.
 
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Just my 2 cents, having designed many panels for customers now.

The vents on the main panel take up a ton of valuable space, and blowing directly at you typically doesn't work as the mic on the headsets will trigger to easily. Even with vents mounted in normal spot you have to be careful where they are aimed.

The ident button I personally don't need for external, in 400 hours I have probably had to use it 4 times, and it is very easy to access on the screen. ADS-B has just about eliminated the need for ident buttons.

I have only ever wanted to manually adjust the screen brightness at night, and it was rather simple. I will say I wish the screen went dimmer though when it was pitch black out.

I like my flap, fuel pump and smoke switches in a position where I can switch them without moving my right hand, nor taking my eyes away from outside. If you ever want to fly formation you will see how useful and much safer that is. Didn't see where you had those switches.
 
Buttons

I have an ident button on my panel, used it once in four years of flying. The only time I’ve gotten a request to ident was during initial contact and transponder code assignment. So I was already on the screen anyway.

My autopilot disconnect is momentary switch on the top my stick. I was worried about hitting it, hasn’t been a problem.

I have the vents under the panel and my wife loves having the air directed at her face. It can and does trigger the microphone.

Just some thoughts from my experience with my choices.
 
Okay I incorporated most of the comments into this latest design. Ive decided to go with a gnc355 for added com redundancy plus a gma245 intercom. The garmin com will replace the dynon avionics panel. I'll locate the AP disconnect in the stick grips and delete the dimmer and ident buttons. I'm thinking about replacing the vents all together with the rv-10 style hinge door vents. I used these on my -3b and they worked really well...and they're light weight. Circuit protection will be VPX, so I dont think I'll need any breakers on the panel.

Panel rev2.JPG

The clashing on the back side is still a concern...

panel rear.JPG
 
Canopy release

Without debating the need for immediate access, you will want some access to the canopy release mechanism. The height of the radio stack will block that access. That mechanism is shown on drawing 48. Mine is behind the panel but does come through the sub panel. There may come a day when the canopy needs to come off for maintenance.

There have been some pretty clever designs for alternative installations shown here on VAF.
 
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I chose to leave space between my displays and the radio stack, in order to fit the ribs:





By the plans, these ribs go from the firewall to the panel, so (as Scott also mentioned) I had to cut them at the sub panel, relocate them outboard, and attach them between the sub panel and panel separately. There are many VAF threads on this topic.

I also chose not to run the canopy jettison handle out to the panel, and instead use that panel space for backup instruments.
 
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Without debating the need for immediate access, you will want some access to the canopy release mechanism. The height of the radio stack will block that access. That mechanism is shown on drawing 47. Mine is behind the panel but does not come through the sub panel. There may come a day when the canopy needs to come off for maintenance.

There have been some pretty clever designs for alternative installations shown here on VAF.

FYI for those who may not have seen it, we recently produced an optional kit for relocating the canopy release with two different configurations available. Installation details here.
 
Not seen it

I’m definitely in the crowd that hasn’t seen that optional kit. That’s exactly what I would use.
 
I really appreciate the advice! Ill be shifting the Dynon outboard to account for the ribs and playing with the center stack arrangement due to the depth issues. I want to have this thing water jetted before the hardware arrives in a few months.
 
This is great feedback. I’m addition to moving the vents down...
I would think very carefully before moving the vents. They provide a much better blast in the face in the main panel. I also find the lower vent support uncomfortable. Its not all about panel real estate but living with the whole package.
 
The clashing on the back side is still a concern...
On my panel I anticipated I'd have to cut a hole in the subpanel between the main panel and the firewall due to the length of the radio stack (I did a 3D CAD design same as you). What I didn't anticipate (panel built by specialists) was the room needed for the wiring which was considerable. Recommend you get some pix if the connectors and wiring of completed panels to avoid surprises.
 
If you want the mag & start switches in the middle of the panel, by all means go for it. But, they don't have to be there in order to fly from the right.

The RV7 Panel is tiny compared to even a 172. You can reach pretty much anything on the panel from either seat.
 
If you want the mag & start switches in the middle of the panel, by all means go for it. But, they don't have to be there in order to fly from the right.

The RV7 Panel is tiny compared to even a 172. You can reach pretty much anything on the panel from either seat.

True, my wife prefers flying right seat PIC so she reaches everything easily from over there. Regular right seat PIC means we are going with a dual G3X screen set up on our panel upgrade with the back up G5 in the center at the top of the stack.

For IFR flying from the right seat solo she will easily be able to shoot an approach to minimums using the standby ADI with course guidance in the worst case scenario. We practice failure modes as part of pilot proficiency so this comes from experience in other aircraft configured for regular IFR flight.
 
This is my 3rd rev incorporating the additional feedback. I'll probably add a v-speed placard to the right side of the right screen as well as the passenger warning label. The garmin stack will conflict with the rear panel, but it'll be much more manageable now that they're located towards the bottom of the panel. There's approximately 0.5" between the HDX screens and center stack which will accommodate the longitudinal ribs.

panel rev3.JPG

panel rev3 rear.JPG

I was initially going to water jet the panel, but after modeling the cut outs in 2D I think it will be easy enough to cut everything with a cuttoff wheel.
 
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Alright, rev 4 and I'm done. My OCD got the better of me and I spaced the Dynon mini panels evenly. Time to cut!

RV7 panel rev4.JPG
 
And here’s the finished product. I transferred the cad dimensions to the panel then cut everything out by hand. For paint I chose spraybike rattle can paint - base coat is raven grey with a matte clear topcoat. I’ve installed LEMO jacks on the sub panel and the ELT faceplate is in the throttle bracket for a cleaner look. Aside from lettering it’s pretty much finished. I should have it powered up in a week or two!

C1C835FB-B2E9-4109-BB82-DF81F3F96CFC.jpg
 
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Looks really nice. I like what you did with the ELT switch. Always hated how it looked mounted on my panel.

I know its after the fact at this point, but isnt it awkward having the start button near the mixture control? I need one hand to push the button and the other hand to shove the mixture to rich when starting and having to twist to get both hands in the same area is uncomfortable for me.
 
I know its after the fact at this point, but isnt it awkward having the start button near the mixture control? I need one hand to push the button and the other hand to shove the mixture to rich when starting and having to twist to get both hands in the same area is uncomfortable for me.

It felt okay when I was garage testing it, but ultimately time will tell. You could have a good point.
 
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