Numatx 3060 C-frame

Here is a picture of my C frame with the 3060 squeezer from Numatx. I epoxied the bottom plate in place instead of welding or screwing in place.

not sure if that picture posted.

I put on two hinged leaves on the bench to extend up for dimpling skins.

http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w663/Kenneth_Stockman/Photo5-1_zps48f61f64.jpg

Numatx C-Frame and Table

Hi Ken - Did you construct the C-Frame and Table using Numatx's plans? I took his drawings to a metal shop a couple of years ago and it was going to be close to $1,000 for them to build it for me. I know he's redesigned it since then, so maybe not so much now.

Please let us know your experience with Numatx's tools. When I first saw their demo at Sun N' Fun it seemed like a great way to go.

Chris

Numatx C-Frames

Chris,

Yes, Ken built the C-Frame from Numatx Plans (dwg 3430). There are 3 versions available:

1. 3422 - C-Frame waterjet cut from 1.5" thk plate steel.
2. 3430 - C-Frame which will directly accept Model 3060 C-squeezer
3. 3440 - C-Frame which mounts a Model 3400 powered head.

An adapter plate on dwg 3440 allows the 3400 powered head to fit the popular DRDT frame as well, for those that already have a DRDT frame. The 3400 powered head, is redesigned for part commonality with the 3060, which means you can buy the mount block only, and screw in the cylinder from the 3060 when you want to do dimpling or light riveting. Or you can buy the complete 3400 head, if you prefer not to be screwing the cylinder in and out. Your choice.

The $1,000 you were referring to was for the 3422 waterjet version. The price you were given sounds a bit high, but that may have been a polite way for the machine shop to say "we are too busy to do the job".

I purchased a 60" long 3" x 6" x 1/4" wall CRS tube, which is what it takes to make a 3440 C-Frame. This tube was a drop-off purchased from Alro Steel for $40, in virgin condition. I asked on a price for ordering the steel tube, and was told $90. There are a couple of other small steel pcs to complete the frame, and of course the tubing needs to be bandsaw cut square and welded.

Pictures and a video will be posted on the Numatx website when the C-frame unit is completed.

Intensifier tubing routing

One note:

If you look at Ken’s link to his setup (link re-posted below), the pressure intensifier does not need to be on the floor, it can be on the table, by the wall, or even hanging from the wall. Inverted is ok. The plastic lines that feed from the intensifier can be routed at the wall, under the table, and to the foot valve at the floor. That would tidy the routing a bit.

http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w663/Kenneth_Stockman/Photo5-1_zps48f61f64.jpg

I purchased a steel plate from a metal recycler for .25 cents a pound which was a little over 100 lbs ($26.49) and took it and the 3422 .DXF to a machinist to have it cut. They said they would do it for $200 if I wasn't in a hurry. A month and a half later I picked up the C-frame and gave them a DXF I created to use the common CP-214 squeezer. After about 45 minutes I was headed home to throw the brackets on the Bridgeport and cut them down to hold my squeezer. It took some time and a few email exchanges with Mark (thanks again), but I would say it was well worth it when dimpling the ailerons and wing skins. I have to say Marks generous gift of these free drawings that he put hours and hours into designing has saved me a ton of time and shows the great people we have in this hobby of ours. I have a video of me using it to dimple the aileron and how fast it is on my phone, I will try and get it on youtube this week. Here is a picture of it while I was constructing a table for it. Sorry about the large picture, it won't let me bring the size down.

so far the 3060 works great. i have not used it attached to the Cframe yet, since there has been opportunity to need it yet on the wings. I will as soon as I start to dimple the skins.

My father-in-law and brother in law built the Cframe. they bought the metal and had a machine shop cut up the pieces. they then welded it for me. I made the bottom plate for to hold the dies and epoxied it in place. That was easy. I think that the metal coast about $200 and $50 bucks or so to cut out the part that holds the 3060. It took about 1.5 hours to weld. My father-in-law and my brother-in-law were/are professional welders.

I am sure that they would build them for much less than $1000. Not sure how much it would cost to ship one of these things. It has to weigh 75 lbs. They live in VA.

If anyone is interested I can ask if they are interested in building another one. The other alternative would be to have a place cut the metal, then advertise on craiglist's list for welding services.

The table was my own design. Essentially an EAA table attached to the wall. Well two tables with an inset for the cframe between the tables. And then I put on leafs that I can put up for dimpling skins.

Local Alro Steel

Thanks for the replies guys, and offer to assist with C-Frame construction Ken. Very helpful.

Mark, you mentioned Alro Steel and I see that they have several locations in the Tampa area. It looks like they may be able to provide the steel and the cutting and I'm sure I can find a welder. I still have the DXF file for the 3422 so I can take that to them and see what they can do.

What would you recommend I purchase from Numatx to do a -8 slow build?

Thanks!

Chris

posting rule #1

Chris et al,

You will need to email me, so that I am not in violation of posting rule #1.

Numatx Products for -8

Hi Mark - I respect your concern, and request that a moderator chime in. The intent of Rule #1 seems clear, "I don't want companies using the forums to jam unsolicited advertisements down my reader's throats."

Not only are you not doing that, this is a solicited request by a multi-year VAF dues paying member (we're VAF customers too) who is very interested in a novel and limited line of products that may reduce build time and increase build quality. Being novel, it isn't entirely clear to me which of the products would be appropriate to build an RV such as a -8.

I don't mind using email, but on numerous occasions in these forums someone in a years old thread has asked a question the answer to which I was very interested, but the response was "PM sent," or "Email sent," leaving other readers in the dark.

All that said it certainly would be great if you were able to become a VAF advertiser someday, but I'm hoping it's OK to answer my question here in the forums so others can benefit and without anyone violating any rules.

Thanks,

Chris

Rule #1 - non-clarified by me

Chris,

Thanks for your reply, and that is my line of thinking too. But I guess it is DRs thinking that matters. If someone had a question related to my product, as you do, I would attempt to answer it (formerly). Posting a new thread describing a new product is crossing the line, as I now understand it. Apparently so is having my company www info in the signature line. If I cant have my www link in my signature, people will say, "who the heck are you to be answering this question?"

IMHO, some level of free flow of information is what brings people to the site, as well as advertisers. Also, this hobby is all about people coming up with ideas and products that improve the hobby, but they might not yet have the capital to afford full advertising. So it may be a little bit like killing the goose that laid the golden egg. Again, this is my opinion only.

In the not too distant future, I probably will be advertising on VAF. DR can PM me, but it might be better if he clarify his intent so all can see. It is his website, and thus he gets to make the rules.

Email sent

Email sent.

Chris

So far so good with the 3060. I dimpled the skins a few weeks ago. It is small and light. I use a C clamp to a 4" yoke to the bench top and dimple ribs. I just sit down in a chair and dimple. The foot pedal is nice. you can stop the actuation at any point. You do have to move three things around the shop to use it as a handle held squeezer--the pedal, the squeezer, and the base. Not a big deal.

Not sure how you would violate rule #1. I was the one who brought the product up in this thread.

Ken, I sent you a PM. Thanks

I have a Numatx 3050 squeezer and it is awesome. The nice thing is that it can easily be attached to a c-frame so it can be used to dimple as well. The owner, Mark, is easy to work with and is very helpful. I just got a set of "quick" shear pins for holding the yoke in place. Very easy to exchange out yokes now.

http://www.numatx-tools.com/new_3000_lbf_squeezer_10.html