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Pro-Seal vs. Gasket

Mark Dickens

Mark Dickens

Well Known Member
Patron
I'm just now getting around the Vans Service Bulletin re: fuel tank anti-rotation bracket (my tanks were built in 2000) and have seen some builders talk about sealing the access panel with Pro-Seal instead of replacing the gasket.

I'd rather just replace the gasket because it seems to me that Pro-Sealing the access panel would just make it even more difficult to open it up later if needed, but if there's a good reason to take the Pro-Seal route, I'd like to know why.

Can anyone shed light on this?
 
Nope

Proseal not a problem. Cork gaskets seep over short time, sealing my RV1 wings and fuel sender with proseal as we speak.
 
Jerry,
Prosealing the tank will cause you problems in the future. That is if you wish to remove the object you are securing. Remember how good of a job proseal does to the tanks to seal the corners and seams? Does that proseal ever come off?
That is what is suppose to do. Stay stuck! But to remove proseal? not me. There are other very good sealants that you can use on the tank, and not leak.
Think about it. In fact if you do a search about it on this forum you will find the issue tried already.
Dave
 
I read somewhere that there is a less adhesive version of pro seal that some has used for the access plate, that will seal but be easier to remove. Maybe somebody had more info on that. I just used the regular stuff, and hopefully never have to remove it, but it will be doable if needed.

Chris
 
I had to remove an access plate that had been pro-sealed in place.

Took about ten minutes. It's a lot easier than some think, and I hate fuel seeps/leaks....
 
[email protected] said:
Jerry,
Prosealing the tank will cause you problems in the future. That is if you wish to remove the object you are securing.

--- snip ---

Dave
Click to expand...

I disagree.

No issue removing a cover installed with ProSeal IF you know how to do it.

I have taken the Rear Close out off of both tanks on an RV-4 and was able to reuse the Rear Close out. I have had both access covers off my RV-6 tanks twice since they were built. Once before I flew when I thought I did not tighten the pickup then again to perform the Service Bulletin on the fuel pickups.

To remove any cover that has been installed with ProSeal, use a Putty Knife with the blade as Parallel to the tank and cover hit with a hammer. Use the putty knife as a KNIFE to cut the seal. DO NOT Pry the cover off with anything.

I have only seen one gasket that had not leaked. Over time, it may have leaked. My RV has been flying 16-years and over 2,740 hours. I may not have seen ALL RV Problems, but I have seen my share.
 
YellowJacket RV9 said:
I read somewhere that there is a less adhesive version of pro seal that some has used for the access plate, that will seal but be easier to remove. Maybe somebody had more info on that. I just used the regular stuff, and hopefully never have to remove it, but it will be doable if needed.

Chris
Click to expand...

Try PR-1428 Low Adhesion Access Door Sealant
;)
 
I use 3M or PPG-DeSoto B class sealants to seal my tanks and access panel. I MEK?d the panel and tank, applied a thin layer, ran the bolts down until the sealant just started to squeeze out, let it set until it was almost cured then final torqued the bolts. Give the sealant a couple hours to cure, I know many will gasp at my next comment, but I will then pressure check the tank at 1.5 psig then increase to 2 psig (TMDE calibrated low pressure gauge). No leaks and have had to remove the panel before without problem, I heat the sealant with a heat gun to remove it, works like a champ.

I do not use Van?s kit nutplates, I used the encapsulated nutplates and a non-adhering gasket for the floats I made with sealant. Bolts go in dry, and if I have a problem with the float, I can pop in off and back on without even thinking about sealant.
 
Mark,

After some research I found a product that the airlines use as a temporary sealer for tank access doors on most Boeing aircraft. The tanks have to be entered into at C and D checks or to make repairs to weeping rivets. I'm about to close my tanks up and just ordered some. I plan on mixing some and applying it to some scrap. Ill let it dry and strip it with a plastic scraper and report back.

CS3330 is used as an access door sealant for integral fuel tanks and pressurized cabins, as a strippable fillet, and as a gasket for removable parts.

http://sealpakcoinc.com/product/cs3330-b2-access-door-sealant/
 
Flamemaster product report

I received the access door sealant in the mail from Skygeek. $19.89 shipped to my door. The product number again is CS 3330 B-2. I cut the tube in 1/2 and mixed it 100 to 10 as instructed. I don't have the other tank ready to close up yet so I put the rest in the fridge. This stuff mixes like the vans tank sealant but sets up rather quickly. After buttering up the opening, I put the access door in place and dipped each screw in the sealant and screwed it down. The next morning it had a hard rubbery feel and had obviously set up. I then proceeded to test the tank for 24HRS in the house at 74deg F. This morning I woke up and the needle on my low pressure gauge had not moved off 1.3 PSI. The interesting difference between this product and standard tank sealant is how easily it is able to strip off a scrap of sheet metal. It dries like a rubber gasket that is perfectly formed to the two mating surfaces. There would only be about 10 minutes to completely strip this product and move on to fixing the issue that caused you to have to open up the tank in the first place.

Worth 20 bucks? Absolutely in my honest opinion. :)
 
Terry,

The package date is 7/2013
Exp date 4/2014

It looks like 9 months.
Hope that helps.

Mark
 
Alternatively...

I had a leaking tank before a trip, the rubber gasket had swelled and cracked. So I whipped up a set of access plate and fuel sender gaskets out of neoprene impregmated cork material that I got from autozone. After cleaning everything, I applied as thin a layer as possible of fuel lube to both sides of the gasket (a messy job for sure). I then reassembled with Allen head screws.

It was supposed to be a temporary fix to get me through a weekend, but has lasted a year and a half now. I had to tighten a couple of screws to stop a weeping area, but other than that it's fine.
 
don't use regular proseal only to seal the access panel

Been trying to remove a proseal-only panel for 2 weeks now. Polygone isn't even working. For those that say this is "no-problem" they either got lucky when the time came to remove the panel, or they haven't tried to remove it yet.

I'll use the "less sticky" stuff if I ever get it off to re-seal.

More detail here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=881068&postcount=9

-Clay
 
ClayR_9A said:
Been trying to remove a proseal-only panel for 2 weeks now. Polygone isn't even working. For those that say this is "no-problem" they either got lucky when the time came to remove the panel, or they haven't tried to remove it yet.
I'll use the "less sticky" stuff if I ever get it off to re-seal.
More detail here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=881068&postcount=9
-Clay
Click to expand...

Been removing "pro-sealed only" cover plates for quite a few years and never had a problem.
 
Removing cover

Here's an idea. It may not work but we used to use the smallest guitar string to cut through stuff like that.
 
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