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ElectorAir 41000 trouble

Sdemeyer

Active Member
I've just completed the installation of an ElectroAir 41000 and am having some troubles I'm not sure the cause. When running on just the EIS, the engine seems to lug, like the timing is way off. When switching from left mag to right EIS, the engine cuts out for a moment, then a backfire or two, then it starts running kind of OK. The engine runs on EIS only, but just not very good. Running on both Mag and EIS is a lot better.

I should also add that I have a rotary key switch for switching between mags.

The EIS was used and supposedly working fine when removed from the previous aircraft but I am having my doubts.

If anyone has any ideas, I'm listening. Otherwise off with the EIS, and back on with the mag that never let me down.


Scott
 
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Assuming that you set the timing correctly, check the spark plug wire terminations. When I did my initial installation, I had a problem with the spark plug wire terminations. Need to follow the instructions.

On the timing, if you leave the MAP tube off, the timing is assured to be the value you set by adjusting the timing sensor. That is good for a basic ground check. You don't say what engine or timing you set but be sure you are referencing the correct timing mark on the flywheel when you set the timing.
 
Not sure what you mean by setting the timing. There is a hole in the magneto timing housing (MTH) that you stick a pin through, which sets the MTH to top dead center. When the engine is at #1 TDC, install the MTH and no other adjustments that I can see. I will double check the spark plug wire springs. Its possible I got one installed in the center fiber rather than the conductor. I did try with the MAP off and it ran slightly better but still not great. Its an 0320-A2B

Thanks, keep'em coming
 
That is the only timing adjustment. Actually nothing to adjust from there as long as you used the correct timing mark on the flywheel when doing it.
 
Actually, the electroair unit is ordered for the proper timing, you only set the timing unit to TDC on the engine. So one thing is to verify that the system you bought is set up for the correct timing. The engine data plate should state the timing, typically 20 or 25 degrees.
 
troubleshooting guide

there are a few basic voltage and resistance type checks you can do on 'the box' to see if it's working.
sounds like you have the mag-hole type trigger, so I'm clueless about that.
seems fairly solid state if timed.
I don't have the guide handy, but call or e-mail electroair, their support of my ancient used unit has been excellent!
download the guide here.

http://www.electroair.net/stc_ignition_kit.html#
 
Are You Wired Thru A Key Switch?

If so, remove ALL EI wires going to the switch, including the ground. That's where my problem was and how Mike at ElectroAir suggested I solve it. You should have a switch controlling power to the module mounted on the inboard side of the firewall- that's all you need. You won't see any RPM drop when you do a mag check if the EI module is powered.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP
 
If so, remove ALL EI wires going to the switch, including the ground. That's where my problem was and how Mike at ElectroAir suggested I solve it. You should have a switch controlling power to the module mounted on the inboard side of the firewall- that's all you need. You won't see any RPM drop when you do a mag check if the EI module is powered.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP

Thanks, I will disconnect the rotary switch and give it a try. I've verified everything else is in order, short of faulty parts.

Scott
 
You still need to set the mag timing to 20/25 deg BTDC based on your motor's data plate.


See if this helps....... http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=2372035113001

NO NO NO! You will wind up with blown up engine. The timing is set to 0 degs. When the engine starts the timing will jump to about 18 degs, as the RPM's go up the timing will follow upwards.

Make sure the MTH is installed correctly. The engine might pop when shutting the EIS on and off as the system must start counting the notches in the MTH to align the timing again. Also make sure you have the plugs gapped right and the wires working right. These are great units and way out perform the competition.
 
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NO NO NO! You will wind up with blown up engine. The timing is set to 0 degs. When the engine starts the timing will jump to about 18 degs, as the RPM's go up the timing will follow upwards.

In post 3# I understand him to be timing a MAG..... or at least it was called a mag.

Not to be more confused..... In my post, I called it MAG timing.
 
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In post 3# I understand him to be timing a MAG..... or at least it was called a mag.

Not to be more confused..... In my post, I called it MAG timing.

The mag timing housing is not a mag, but a timing sensor that goes into the exisitng mag drive.
 
First on the switch. Reverse the R & L assuming the EI is on the right side. When the EI is grounded to off and the mag is not firing it puts a strain on the EI when it restarts causing the backfire. I found this out many years ago when I installed their pre-certification soon to be certified demo unit. I related all this back to Mike but I'm not sure they never incorporated it into the instructions because they don't like you to use a key switch.

On the poor running, if nothing else fixes it try pulling the MTH and check that the gear is firmly mounted. Mine had come lose after about 300 hours causing very poor running and some backfires. The A&P/IA who helped me with the initial install and attached the gear did not torque it down correctly and the only thing keeping it on was the cotter pin.

I'm curious if you used the correct timing marks on the flywheel. Did you verify TDC on Cyl 1 or just go by the marks? There are typically two sets of marks on the flywheel, one that lines up with the starter and the other with the case split.
 
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I disconnected the rotary key switch from the white shielded wire and things dramatically improved. No more popping when switching between mag and EI. I guess the EI doesn't like my rotary switch.

I'm still not 100% convinced everything is in order. I get a lot bigger drop in RPM when running on the EI, versus running on the mag. I can't say the exact numbers because the EI evidently does not like my Flight Data Systems tach, either.

It does run smooth when running on the mag, or EI or both, but the RPM drop on the EI, alone, is very noticeable. Seems like the MTH could be off a tooth but I triple checked using the correct timing mark and that the piston is TDC, and I am and it is.

Scott
 
Sounds Like You're Making Progress

If you have a ground wire going from the EI to the key switch, make sure to disconnect it. Also a potential source of problems.
With the EI side switched off with the toggle, try shutting off the ignition (mag) using the key switch rather than pulling the mixture. If the engine keeps running, you likely have a simple wiring issue. If so, call Mike at EI to correctly identify the leads coming from the EI controller and to make certain the cutoff switch is on the proper circuit.
The spark coming from the EI is much stronger and longer in duration than the mag. Review your test procedure with Mike.
It's a great piece of hardware once it's set up properly.
Good luck.
Terry
 
No joy

Well, I cant say I didn't try to get this electroair working. Went through every troubleshooting procedure available, checked everything I could with my Ohm meter, Everything is as its supposed to be but still ran like ****.

Runs perfect now that my trusty mag is back on.

Thanks for the troubleshooting help.

Scott
 
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