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switch use on the stick

Bavafa

Well Known Member
A question for the G3X users, just wondering what functions are available and advisable for using either a momentary or toggle switch on the stick. I will have two of them on my pilot side and one is going to be a momentary switch for A/P control wheel steering/disconnect. I am wondering what other functions are available with this or a toggle switch? I am considering "Ident" for transponder as a possibility.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 
I went through everything when I put my wiring plan together and the only thing I could find worthwhile was using my spare button on the stick for engaging the autopilot wing level/alt hold (see pg 33-131 of the manual). It essentially replaces the LVL button on the GMC 307 autopilot controller, if you chose to do your install without the separate controller. It's my "hey buddy, will you hold this for a second" button, so I can quickly engage the autopilot without having to flip through anything on the screen.
If you search through the G3X install manual for the term "discrete input" it will lead you to a number of options dispersed throughout the manual, such as "manual reversion" for switching between ADAHRS, Take off/Go around, frequency swap, Electronic Stability Protection etc.
Tom.
 
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KISS

Keep It Simple S*******.
Put only those functions on the stick/throttle that are needed to help fly the plane. Functions that you really don't want to move your hands/eyes to perform. The ident button is NOT one of those.

Trim, transmit, smoke on/off, speed brakes/spoilers, auto pilot disengage (maybe), Nose wheel steering, are all good candidates.

I shudder when I see someone has put a start switch on the stick. If inflight restarts are done several times on each flight, this might be a good idea, otherwise....NO.

If you have to think about which finger to move to perform a function, then that function should not be at your finger tips.
 
Stick controls

Put AP and back channel swap. That's all you need. Also if you aren't familiar, learn course steering (hold down AP), it's nice.
 
I have an Infinity grip so lots of buttons/switch options. Regardless of the grip brand you have, I agree on keeping it limited to switches that you want to access without having to look for it. The top of my sticks have the A/P Disconnect/Control Wheel Steering (CWS), Trim (coolie hat), and Flap switches. My "trigger" switch is the PTT. I also have an VP-200 ack on my thumb switch (don't use it anymore and haven't reassigned it to anything else) and Com 1 flip-flop on my pinky (I never use it as I'm in the habit of doing it right on the radio as I'm usually dialing in a new freq right after the change).

PS-- I've been asked to "ident" exactly once in the past 200 hrs (and I'm based in the DC SFRA in Class D under Class B and fly IFR frequently); my point is it doesn't happen enough to warrant placement on the stick. YMMV....
 
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Thank you all for your input. I won't have smoke system otherwise this would be good option.
 
Big fan of simple myself. I added 'ident' last year when I started doing a bunch of IFR work. I'm under the class B and have lots of class D fields around with radar and was asked to ident quite a bit. The ident button has come in very handy. Other than trim and PTT, I have AP disc and ident.
 
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I have an Infinity "fighter style" grip festooned with switches and have to admit having a hard time finding a function for all of them. Trim, flaps and Radio transmit are obvious, in addition I have AP, smoke, and freq. flip flop.

The smoke replaced my first foray into the "Start" function on the stick. I debated that one quite a while and eventually found it useful on the Rocket, which can be a handful to hot start while holding the stick firmly back. Since I'll be EFI from here on out, the start button on the stick makes no sense. Besides, an extra button makes a good excuse to add a smoke system, right?
 
I'll be using Dynon, but as another data point here is the setup I'm going with on my Tosten grip.

PUQcwTnNaWnJY4vjFoLrA9qs3N7NfUaApngkm7Vn0TAc8atn4xD4k4XaEndinW4gSHnGk2gkELZ_9ZFLQlAK1bzOfp6Fjq_ydy1vzPfQc4KpKSxpY56jmget5-BjOQ6oS_WxEQC5ITg6gMZsWvRfXhSqwOnJmKh1rFwGC6YU-lNCp7bWdrq45nyb2Qq5wWyHMIuoEI5S77Y5naTH9MzFrmEcyCFcYBQsGSSCI7pjZXcQqpz_p0gaI3ikIuILYES9P6UJBIHDLZiq8q0x0PHBZGtTYiBcYA5qXskNwtfuVzf2xAj0p1oAqjF9LDd6E2_LEBxnB4KsxwH39I9E10sL9BgPOGibfktzgLgecO-Nvs_-nTiJdIu4As-6H0XecgkoFYOD-1SlLpUAaxynNP_kesnugT70Ry5aWSqOJAkSOLvwAuAA86xjo-69b21AeRmUlgvoEj6_c9fz-a5abltNDmqTQtBED3iRjYeYns7nyBR8EpgaVF4ze9jgWNcYNj2IXOGSWo-oCfnH_8s2dvNUglWvLWZWz1P6Dbl9r_Hp5mtnr7qu8QUnb0bhHpXdS4DQPlmYjrDrSMAzmRroZpnImTRfRNxoiQ8dj_fvEaQ=w479-h619-no
 
I added a "Comm Flip-Flop" switch on the stick of my -6A.

I find it useful to set up the next frequency needed and switch quickly and easily from the stick. With my DIY 3 switch audio panel, the flip-flop switch is automatically connected to the active transmitter of my two com radios.
 
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Tosten 8 switch stick

I have the hat switch for elevator/aileron trim =4 switches
Left/Right rear momentary buttons rudder trim = 2 switches
Front Trigger PTT = 1 switch
Front button AP disconnect = 1 switch
 
Another happy Infinity grip user with the following:

* Coolie hat = roll/pitch trim
* Trigger = PTT
* Middle thumb button = A/P disable / enable (3 second hold)
* Upper right thumb button = Radio flip/flop (not used much with my setup).
* Upper left thumb switch = Flaps
* Lower pinkie button = Rocket launcher

I wired a panel switch to disable all but PTT on the co-pilot yoke.
 
I could be wrong, but ISTM that ADS-B will make an "ident" button obsolete.
I had ADSB out and many times had been asked for ident.

In regards to the comm swap, I thought it about it but having fat fingers, don't want to accidently hit that switch and not knowing I had swapped com and keep talking to dead air. Even my A/P disconnect, I have had a couple of times that I hit the disconnect by accident and wondered why the plane is not following course only to realize that it had been disconnected. This would be specially bad in IMC.
 
Good comments

Glad to see this thread come up. I could only come up with PTT when Ive been pondering this for the M2, so have no need for and dont really want a fighter style grip.......(manual flaps and trim).

I can see adding a smoke switch (PTS?) when the time comes however.......
 
I shudder when I see someone has put a start switch on the stick. If inflight restarts are done several times on each flight, this might be a good idea, otherwise....NO.

+1.

The guy who built my -9A did a superb job. But he put the starter switch on the stick. This was a TRULY HORRIBLE idea, in my humble opinion.

Note that there may someday be a person (e.g., an instructor) in your cockpit, with the master on, who is capable of bumping that button by accident. Ask me how I know, and how close I was to the prop when it happened!

When Vic did my panel upgrade he moved the starter to a guarded toggle switch. HUGE improvement. And I feel like a naval surface warfare officer when I flip the guard up before starting.

On the other hand, I'm a fan of the IDENT switch being on the stick. I get asked to IDENT a lot where I fly. And it's a natural place for control-wheel-steering, obviously.
 
I have the Ident on the stick.
Interesting to see the variation in replies. At LVK (class D under class B) I seem to get asked for it a lot. And lots of traffic funneling thru a few passes. But someone else in the DC area reports seldom being asked. East coast-west coast thing?

For the person who has accidentally disconnected the autopilot: most of them have audio warning tones. Maybe you need to turn up the volume?
 
Start on stick

I've got my starter on the Infinity stick grip on the top where I have to move my thumb up and over the coolie hat to get to it. This switch activates a relay which powers up the starter contactor. I have a start enable switch on the panel under a flip-up guard. After start, I flip the guard down and the stick mounted start switch is safe. This way I can hold the stick back during start to nail the tailwheel down and have my other hand free for mixture and throttle. The enable switch has a 3rd, momentary position for in case the stick start switch ever fails to work. This one bypasses the relay and lights up the starter contactor directly.

Ed Holyoke

I am actually playing with the idea of a start button on the stick. Reason for is to not have to keep the stick held between your legs while starting.

If done I will have three switches in a group on the panel, left mag, starter consent and right mag. So the button on the stick would have to have both the master activated and then the protected starter consent switch on.

Probably will not happen.... ;)
 
+1.

But he put the starter switch on the stick. This was a TRULY HORRIBLE idea, in my humble opinion.

Note that there may someday be a person (e.g., an instructor) in your cockpit, with the master on, who is capable of bumping that button by accident. Ask me how I know, and how close I was to the prop when it happened!

I had this happen on a customers aircraft when I was working an avionics problem and I inadvertantly engaged the starter from the stick, I was not happy camper !!!!
 
The only way I could talk myself into a start button on the stick was with an "ARM" switch somewhere else. Worked fine, but certainly made the airplane very "nonstandard".
 
Infinity stick start user here also, love it there, but I do have a switch that kills it if need be.
 
Anyone have the TO/GA button on the stick?

I'm considering this idea as I finalize the upgraded panel.
 
I've got nearly the same setup as RAYMO.

* Coolie hat = roll/pitch trim
* Trigger = PTT
* Middle thumb button = A/P disconnect / cws
* Upper right thumb button = COM flip/flop
* Upper left thumb switch = Flaps
* Lower pinkie button = reserved for smoke

My Infinity stick switches are all backed up on my panel except for the future smoke switch.

In operation, I found that I was using the flip/flop switch on the radio instead of the stick, so I changed the stick switch to a COM flip/flop. I still don't use the COM flip/flop switch very often. I may repurpose that switch for something else. Perhaps I'll go with ident. I get asked for that fairly often.
 
I'm installing an Infinity grip to replace a failed Ray Allen grip.

My switch layout is:

Trigger = PTT
Upper right thumb = autopilot disengage
China Hat = elevator trim (future aileron trim)
Upper left thumb = flaps toggle
Lower left thumb = boost pump toggle​

I would avoid putting the starter button on the stick. All it takes is one mistake to hurt someone...the risks outweigh the benefits. Safety > convenience.
 
Flaps on the stick

For those of you who have flaps on the stick, seems like it would be easy to accidentally drop the flaps in cruise - did this ever happen to you?
 
Eight years of flying now with flap switch on stick. No accidental engagements and love it as is. It actually takes a fair amount of finger pressure to engage it and there is continuous reverse pressure to return it to the normal center (off) position. Not sure exactly how it would get hit and held accidentally but I suppose anything is possible. To each his own

erich
 
For those of you who have flaps on the stick, seems like it would be easy to accidentally drop the flaps in cruise - did this ever happen to you?
Momentary flap switch on an infinity grip for 18 yrs, ~2000 hrs. I may have bumped the switch 3, 4 times with 1-2 degrees deployed. No ill effects noticed.
 
On the Panel

Anyone have the TO/GA button on the stick?

I'm considering this idea as I finalize the upgraded panel.

I'm planning to put mine on the panel just above the throttle, for two reasons:
1) It seems natural to just hit the button as you advance the throttle.
2) I need a double pull switch for my GTN and G3X discrete inputs.​

If you don't need the GTN input, you could use the single pull switch on the stick. Otherwise, you may have to add in a relay or something to separate the two discrete signals.
 
Currently working on a panel w SteinAir. The TO/GA on the stick goes directly to the GMC 507 AP now and doesn't use a discrete. I need to check/ensure it also triggers G3X and GTN, but I think it may. Aparrently w the GMC 307, it had to use discretes.
 
GMC/G3X

Currently working on a panel w SteinAir. The TO/GA goes directly to the GMC 507 AP now and doesn't use a discrete. I need to check/ensure it also triggers G3X and GTN, but I think it may.

You are correct in that it goes to the GMC 507. And that is what I intended by G3X. I think of the whole system as a the "G3X". I still think the GTN needs it's own TO/GA input. Happy to be corrected.
 
All things are inteconnected, grasshopper

I'm so glad this thread popped up. I'm very early in the build process, but I started to think about my avionics, switchology and stick buttons. These things are all intertwined and need to be considered in relation to each other. I've got a couple of posts on my construction log dealing with these things. These are just the beginning of my thoughts and there is more to come. I use MyKitLog for a construction log and it doesn't give you a lot of space to capture your thoughts. That's not necessarily a bad thing because it forces you to be brief and to the point.

Basically, I wanted to write down the criteria for joystick buttons and the logic for choosing to include or exclude them. Having things in writing forces one to think through the reasons why you should or should not put a function in a particular place. This gives you time to realize that what seems to be a good idea initially really isn't when you think about it for a bit. For the record, I feel that a starter button on the joystick is a really, really bad idea.

Panel design
Joystick switch philosophy

There's a saying at work. "Make functions earn their place on the panel or control." I'm a detail oriented person, so an exercise like this just makes sense.

This same procedure is necessary for switches as well. For example, is it really a good idea to put the avionics master switch right next to the fuel pump switch? (hint: no!) That'll be my next avionics post when I get time.

Once I'm reasonably satisfied with the logic for the entire system, I'll go to Kinko's and get a full scale print of the panel, paste it to some cardboard and go through operational flows to help build checklists and to see if there's any further room for improvement.

I wanted to get an early start on this process so I can lay the initial groundwork and let it marinate in the back on my brain for a while. I'll revisit it from time to time throughout the build and tweak it as required. When it comes time to commit to the avionics I'll have a solid plan in place when I discuss with whoever I choose to build my panel (probably Steinair).

Unnecessary P.S.: My 100th post!
 
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Another point about what to (not) put on the switch is don't put anything "dangerous" on the stick where inadvertent activation or de-activation would be an issue.

Flaps on the stick? Only if you need to activate them promptly, like dumping flaps after landing. If I had that on my RV-8, I'd use it. I would not have it on the RV-9A.

Boost pump on the stick? Nope. Not needed in a hurry nor frequently, the two major criteria for what goes on the stick. And you'd need a light somewhere to tell if it was on, most likely. Quiet dark cockpit philosophy says normal operation is lights off. I would not put boost pump on the stick.

Human factors is, in a way, like edge distance specifications on rivets. Things aren't guaranteed to cause trouble immediately if you make up your own rules...

Ed

Ed
 
Flaps on the stick? Only if you need to activate them promptly, like dumping flaps after landing. If I had that on my RV-8, I'd use it. I would not have it on the RV-9A.
Ed

That's the only one I might argue about, and even then it's dealers choice. I have trim, PTT, AP disconnect, and flaps up/down on my stick in the 9A. I have the flap positioner on my plane so I can bump the momentary flaps switch down and it will go to the next position, or snap it up and they will suck all the way up and stay. I use this on landing to dump flaps after touchdown, and also to dump them on climbout from an IFR missed approach, which I typically do at 90 knots and 10 degrees to stabilize. I really like having the flight functions available without moving my hands from the stick/throttle or eyes from the runway during the final approach.

To each their own, that's why we do these things.
 
Another point about what to (not) put on the switch is don't put anything "dangerous" on the stick where inadvertent activation or de-activation would be an issue.

Flaps on the stick? Only if you need to activate them promptly, like dumping flaps after landing. If I had that on my RV-8, I'd use it. I would not have it on the RV-9A.

Boost pump on the stick? Nope. Not needed in a hurry nor frequently, the two major criteria for what goes on the stick. And you'd need a light somewhere to tell if it was on, most likely. Quiet dark cockpit philosophy says normal operation is lights off. I would not put boost pump on the stick.

Human factors is, in a way, like edge distance specifications on rivets. Things aren't guaranteed to cause trouble immediately if you make up your own rules...

Ed

Ed

Ed I just read your post in the thread from post 35 above and it perfectly captures and expands on my meager attempt to lay down a selection criteria for functions on the joystick. I'm going to steal it for my own purposes! :D

Not to hijack this thread (ok maybe for a couple of posts) what did you do at Boeing? I'm in Fleet Support doing structural repairs on the 777X.
 
Another point about what to (not) put on the switch is don't put anything "dangerous" on the stick where inadvertent activation or de-activation would be an issue.

Flaps on the stick? Only if you need to activate them promptly, like dumping flaps after landing. If I had that on my RV-8, I'd use it. I would not have it on the RV-9A.

Boost pump on the stick? Nope. Not needed in a hurry nor frequently, the two major criteria for what goes on the stick. And you'd need a light somewhere to tell if it was on, most likely. Quiet dark cockpit philosophy says normal operation is lights off. I would not put boost pump on the stick.

Human factors is, in a way, like edge distance specifications on rivets. Things aren't guaranteed to cause trouble immediately if you make up your own rules...

Ed

Ed

My rationale for putting the boost pump on the stick is that I use it during every takeoff and landing. This allows me to execute every take off, approach and landing with HOTAS the entire time I'm in the pattern.

The original cockpit layout (by the original builder) had the boost pump switch on the right-hand side switch panel, so I had to switch hands on the stick to turn it on and off....not the best layout by any means. It needed to be moved and putting it on the stick supports my HOTAS philosophy.
 
OK, I'll weigh in here...

PTT
Trim (pitch and roll)
AP disconnect/CWS (Dynon uses the same button for both...hold 2s to engage CWS, momentary for AP D/D)
Smoke

NOT on the stick:
Starter - much too dangerous IMO
Boost pump - turned on or off so far before or after landing or take-off that it's not necessary on the stick
COMM functions - used infrequently and better to tune and swap at the same time; switching between Com1 and Com2 is even more infrequent
Flaps - avoid inadvertent triggering; flaps toggle is conveniently located by the throttle quadrant

This has worked very well for me...KISS.

Panel switchology is a separate discussion :)
 
My plan right now is Infinity grips, as follows:

Trigger = Com 1 PTT
Hat = Pitch/roll trim
RH thumb = flaps
LH thumb = Com 1 flip/flop (very useful in formation flight)
Lower thumb = AP disconnect/CWS
Pinkie = Smoke (with a separate "Chemtrail dispenser arm" switch on the panel :D)

I may swap the flip/flop and smoke buttons.

I'm also planning for Com 2 PTT on the throttle.



For a long time I saw no point in anything beyond PTT, and trim if you had it.
Then Dad put in smoke and a flip-flop button, and I flew someone's -7 with flaps on the stick. Now I appreciate having all that on the stick a lot more.
 
I have Infinity grips front & back with switches as shown on the cockpit placards below.

IladNWSATMVX6gq4QIb1rhVASK1Jvf9DKTGwTvK6lC634sI4nc-1DtuEoElb0rJK9pSiyXFFQOz27y0Cvr21KWRsnCEps6KZd9NXRKFGB4NeMdJ8B5cuFXVNX1MZiPswCdJKjPWNe2htr1_IIF5VxgompP5xd7S0cxnZOYoT2eGt9dWH7DDVSN1pqK7ny6ys5zN7SNJlI_aGbYfXecUn91ujrLjbpSQEOmAumIvCtYeZCIC2uYCBD9CA_CttmkFLi6h_0huqfqBpUfyCNY-mAgRTDz_9v5jE1nmqKcu2Ji9zySaoPhrFP97mPfFLRU6v8DK_5v6PNt_IrVWRYMLX2W23cosuTV5SCjyhzblIlGwKk0uTTVpx9d92-uNbLmNUAxsTKryfvBssY9z_8iN9pgWBhS8j2hwA_PnlH4RBLLWvyTUwIbAoqQutqWjdzGSIIAJ2jc1uAkJmyLUeTGQmYM6Vl8n4-4H6JtUfjSyqhsk_xTdqVK4YJFo8pzmAVaV4KtkIrvUo0YEgTH4hnUvIwLdODIuP53uZw1WM8fuJfluoRzx8nz5p1w51W2dmHkBmSvKrYRjJlGXknyGn5QxXP7dRL--jQG8wwtk88agofta2aexH9br1b2b8tJsXQtBB-6FAW-hk29tH4CfzJZ6thZUxoD78NUNkeomUaAHR2038jM2P4d2NekUj=w318-h600-no


Also have an enable/disable switch on the side console to kill the back stick. I ended up completely disconnecting the flap switch from the rear stick so no one could "accidentally" drop the flaps when the rear stick was enabled. Probably the only really useful switch in the back is the PTT in case the pilot becomes incapacitated and possibly the trim if the rear seater is flying & controlling the throttle. The grip looks cool though.

I like the boost pump on the stick especially on approach as I don't have to take my hand off the stick or throttle. Same with the flap switch on roll out and approach. With the flap switch so close to the trim though you have to be careful not to hit the flap switch down when trimming nose up by mistake or brain fart. Doing this gets your attention pretty quick though - ask me how I know.

I've never used the comm repeat yet - a frequency flip/flop or some other future function would be more useful here.
 
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Do you really need extra controls on the stick top??

Just to be a little contrary..... when I wanted to put extra controls on my Infinity stick top, my advisors - all ex-Air Force pilots fell around laughing and shouted ?wannabe...? at me.
Their attitude was that HOTAS was for time critical functions. Important on a bombing run, maybe not for a burger run.

So - starter? Very bad idea. With a n enable/kill switch - complexity, wiring, and anyway why??
Flaps? Bad idea. Inadvertent activation - one of my advisors had found himself inadvertently deploying flaps mid-spin.
AP disconnect, radio flip flop, fuel pump? Well ok but again, it?s wiring and complexity. Smoke well just about, given the moments you might want it on.
So now, I have only trim and PTT. Everything else is on the left, flaps and fuel pump just ahead of the throttle, radio and transponder also on the left so I never need to take my right hand off the stick.
I know we all wanted to fly F-16s -15-s etc etc, and some of us do or did. So I?m curious to know - how many former Air Force or navy pilots here have extra stick top functions and feel that they are critical or even necessary for easy and safe operation?
Just my thoughts.

Chris
 
Roll trim

...
China hat: Pitch trim (U/D), Audio Playback (L) and Ident (R)
...

... I'm thinking about adding the ident switch to the China Hat. I wasn't previously intending to use it, but I'll have a remote transponder, so that might be a good function. Otherwise the China Hat (R) will be unused.
ATC is going to love the next guy to fly your 8 when he wants a bit of right roll trim :D
 
I fail to understand concerns about a start button on the grip. Yes, it needs to be wired through a separate start arming switch. It is trivial to wire the arming circuit so it flashes a big red LED on the panel; only blind pilots would fly around with the system armed. I'm not worried about bystanders arming the system, because first they would have to turn on the master switch, then find the arm switch. It's hidden, which is also a minor theft deterrent.

Obvious benefit is that I always start with the stick full back.
 
I fail to understand concerns about a start button on the grip. Yes, it needs to be wired through a separate start arming switch. It is trivial to wire the arming circuit so it flashes a big red LED on the panel; only blind pilots would fly around with the system armed. I'm not worried about bystanders arming the system, because first they would have to turn on the master switch, then find the arm switch. It's hidden, which is also a minor theft deterrent.

Never underestimate the mind's ability to completely ignore warning lights, bells, horns, etc.

As an example, Piper put the gear up warning horn and light on some models of Arrows (and perhaps others, not sure)...and still people manage to land them gear up.

You start the plane ONCE per flight (in theory)...why complicate things and introduce needless risk?
 
Never underestimate the mind's ability to completely ignore warning lights, bells, horns, etc.

As an example, Piper put the gear up warning horn and light on some models of Arrows (and perhaps others, not sure)...and still people manage to land them gear up.

You start the plane ONCE per flight (in theory)...why complicate things and introduce needless risk?

Poor example. I was a Piper salesman way back when. It's a miserable system from a human factors standpoint.

The big red light is "Gear Unsafe". It illuminates when the gear is in transit during normal operations. Put another way, the system teaches the pilot to ignore the light, as it lights with every cycle of the gear, up or down.

Meanwhile, the real warning light is down by the throttle. It is amber, and is intended to remind the pilot that he locked out the automatic gear extension system. Again, we have a "teach to ignore", as a pilot flies with the light flashing for extended periods during a checkout, or while doing practice airwork. Can't do a gear up stall or emergency glide any other way, including the classic training power chop on downwind. You know what happens next.

Contrast with a start arm light. The system is only activated on the ground. There is no reason for it to be armed after start. You have an opportunity to catch it at the runup pad, in a visual scan or on a checklist. Last, there is no critical failure. Worst case is a ruined ring gear. Where is the risk?

In return, all starts are stick back...fuel injected 390 in a tailwheel 8. Plenty of pilots do a crappy hot start two-handed, throttle WOT, mixture in ICO, with the stick sorta held between their knees.
 
Dan, can you elaborate on the importance of holding the still full back? I don't have much experience in a tail wheel aircraft aside from my spin training in a Decathlon. I don't remember that being part of the start sequence. The majority of my time was in 172's and Warriors with a smattering of Mooney and Cirrus.

Is this something specific for a tail dragger?
 
Last, there is no critical failure. Worst case is a ruined ring gear. Where is the risk?

In return, all starts are stick back...fuel injected 390 in a tailwheel 8. Plenty of pilots do a crappy hot start two-handed, throttle WOT, mixture in ICO, with the stick sorta held between their knees.

It may not be a critical risk, assuming the whizzing away starter being driven by the engine doesn't cause some sort of electrical problem, but I try to avoid destroying parts of my engine whenever I can, and that includes system design that prevents the hazard wherever possible.

Anybody can do what they want, and far from me to argue about it with them. I just think there's a better way. I also have an injected engine, and I have zero problems with hot starts *without* going WOT. It's a -7A, though, so, you know... :)

Just my .02.
 
Dan, can you elaborate on the importance of holding the still full back? I don't have much experience in a tail wheel aircraft aside from my spin training in a Decathlon. I don't remember that being part of the start sequence. The majority of my time was in 172's and Warriors with a smattering of Mooney and Cirrus.
Is this something specific for a tail dragger?

I'm not Dan, but I'll answer that. There is always a chance that the engine could start at full throttle. It could be a broken throttle cable, a flooded engine, etc. Regardless of the reason, if the stick is not held full back, you could very easily experience a prop strike. In my opinion, when on the ground, in a taildragger, the stick should be held back at all times unless you are doing a control check or ready to raise the tail on take-off.
 
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