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PerfTech

Well Known Member
... You guys are going to love this one! I think it is one of the very best problem
solving tools we have created. If you hate big oil messes like we do, you will for
sure love this new tool. Go have a look see and by all means let us know what
you think. Thanks, Allan--:D:D
 
I bought one of these less than 1 minute after I got the email announcement from Allan. I might be his first customer for this item, and I'm really looking forward to using it!
 
Ok I’ll say it, anyone worried about this thing popping off and flying around with air pressure?

Cool idea Alan. Also didn’t know you had the oil filter wrench, definitely ordering that guy!!!
 
I might be concerned about moving filter contaminents back into the engine.

Lycoming suggests filling the cooler before starting the engine any time it is drained or has been removed. There would be extended dry time while the system filled by running the engine if the cooler and lines were empty.


Not to rain on any party but I think I prefer a catch pan made out of a 1 qt oil bottle with the side cut out.
 
Gee, hope the dry first start isn't an issue. I just ordered one.
 

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Any concern of having fine particles being pushed back in the engine and not completely draining out, remaining in the engine contaminating the new oil?
 
Any concern of having fine particles being pushed back in the engine and not completely draining out, remaining in the engine contaminating the new oil?

Do you think this idea is much different than poking a hole in the filter and waiting 30 minutes for it to drain back into the oil pan as Allan states in his video and I have done for years?
 
Gee, hope the dry first start isn't an issue. I just ordered one.

Most good mechanics take extra measures to pre-oil a new engine before it's first start, as they have learned that significant wear can happen when you start an engine that has been purged of oil. Lycoming goes so far as to produces an SB on how best to do it and strongly recommends that process after overhaul. They do this because they know it is damaging to start an engine with a completely empty oil circuit. It's one thing to do this once after overhaul. It is another thing completely to subject your engine to that abuse every 35 hours.

I suggest that folks do the research on what type of damage can be caused in the minute after start up if the oil system has been purged of all oil. Applying 80 PSI to the oil filter will fully evacuate ALL oil from the system and completely disagree that this is a good thing for you to do.

You couldn't pay me enough to use a product like this.

Larry
 
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Ok I’ll say it, anyone worried about this thing popping off and flying around with air pressure?

Cool idea Alan. Also didn’t know you had the oil filter wrench, definitely ordering that guy!!!

.... This can't happen! The pierce fitting is restricted to .085", and if you attach the tool to your air hose and set it down it just lays there. This is not a violent operation....:D
 
I might be concerned about moving filter contaminents back into the engine.

Lycoming suggests filling the cooler before starting the engine any time it is drained or has been removed. There would be extended dry time while the system filled by running the engine if the cooler and lines were empty.


Not to rain on any party but I think I prefer a catch pan made out of a 1 qt oil bottle with the side cut out.

....This is not a possibility, the pierce tool end does not pierce the filter media,
and the filter has a built in check valve for the dirty side of the filter as well...:D
 
Direct link, to save the hype and the searching: https://antisplataero.com/products/asa-ez-oil-filter-drain

Basically it's a way to blow compressed air into your oil filter to rapid-drain the oil from the engine. And air-presssure-test your crankcase.

.... Your statement couldn't be further from from what is actually taking place
when using this product. Firstly, there in absolutely no pressurization of the crankcase.
The crankcase breather is a 3/4" hose wide open to atmosphere, as well as the drain
plug is open. The air restriction in the tool is .085" and it does not rapid drain oil from
the engine, it just gets rid of the mess leaking from the filter when you un-screw it
from the engine. If you don't understand this, please feel free to give me a call and
I will explain to you in detail. Thanks, Allan
 
Allan's correct on all points. And I've been doing a "caveman" version of this method for years in which I poke a hole in the filter and then blow into the hole with rubber-tipped compressed air. It's a little clumsy, but achieved the same objective. Allan's tool is a much better approach. I'm looking forward to using this tool.
 
Is this product going to result in oil drainage from the oil cooler that wouldn’t otherwise occur? If so, how is that achieved, and is that really a good thing given the concerns over a momentary lack of lubrication at the next startup?

Thanks
Erich
 
warm and oily

Correct me if I am not getting the right picture regarding wear on start up. When my engine is warm, prior to oil change, all the internal parts are coated with oil. Years of wiping up oil have proven to be a challenge to get it all off of any surface.
Pushing dirty oil out of the filter and cooler appeals to me.
The next start will be shortly after the re-fill, as I check for leaks. I can't picture this being like a dry engine rebuild where I would address the issue of pre-oiling before start.
For years, I have wondered about that 20 percent used oil mixed in with the uncontaminated stuff.
I am sure members here with far more experience than me will put this to some analytical testing. I hope the results show a safe and effective solution to an age old problem. Then I will be happy to add this to my hangar toolbox.
 
I might be concerned about moving filter contaminents back into the engine.

Lycoming suggests filling the cooler before starting the engine any time it is drained or has been removed. There would be extended dry time while the system filled by running the engine if the cooler and lines were empty.


Not to rain on any party but I think I prefer a catch pan made out of a 1 qt oil bottle with the side cut out.

Most good mechanics take extra measures to pre-oil a new engine before it's first start, as they have learned that significant wear can happen when you start an engine that has been purged of oil. Lycoming goes so far as to produces an SB on how best to do it and strongly recommends that process after overhaul. They do this because they know it is damaging to start an engine with a completely empty oil circuit. It's one thing to do this once after overhaul. It is another thing completely to subject your engine to that abuse every 35 hours.

I suggest that folks do the research on what type of damage can be caused in the minute after start up if the oil system has been purged of all oil. Applying 80 PSI to the oil filter will fully evacuate ALL oil from the system and completely disagree that this is a good thing for you to do.

You couldn't pay me enough to use a product like this.

Larry

Three of us are thinking on the same lines. A $47.50 solution to a problem that creates bigger problems than the one it is trying to fix.
 
No Mess Oil Filter Change....

.... First of all you are not blowing any contaminated oil or particulates back into the engine.
All that the filter catches in on the outside wrap of the filter media. The pierce of
the outer can on the filter does not compromise the media. The pierce tip is not that long.
Everything that the filter has captured is trapped in the filter when you remove it. The crud
cannot blow back past the anti drain reed valve in the filter, and inter the engine or it would
do this every time you shut it off. So This not possible and is of no concern. You are when
using this tool just evacuating the portion of the filter that would run out on the floor. When
you start your engine with a new filter, you are starting it with no oil in the filter. All that is
required to remedy that situation is to crank the engine about eight seconds and the filter is f
ull again! The restriction in the tool is only .085" and that is not anywhere near an adequate
air flow to blow everything in the cooler, filter, and oil passages back to the sump (perhaps
25% at most). The crank, bearings, cam, lifters and everything is still covered with oil,
and all is well.....:D:D
 
I can't picture this being like a dry engine rebuild where I would address the issue of pre-oiling before start.
For years, I have wondered about that 20 percent used oil mixed in with the uncontaminated stuff.
.

Absolutely NO engine is assembled dry. Most use a light assembly grease that is designed to last longer than traditional oil in order to deal with the harsh environment of running the engine for 30-45 seconds without oil flow, as the oil system primes itself blows out all of the air. I personally use traditional grease in the oil pump during assembly to get a faster prime. This neat new tool that everyone is so excited about will blow the oil out of the pump and it will take a decent amount of time for it to re-prime itself and build a head. The oil pump is not designed to easily prime, as the developers simply couldn't imagine ANYONE purposely blowing oil out of it and requiring a prime, other than a tear down, where specific instructions are provided for priming it.

I can assure you that one of the very smart auto manufacturing companies would have recommended this approach somewhere in the last 100 years if they thought it was beneficial or necessary. The idea is so far off the reservation that they didn't even think to provide a warning not to do it. I simply cannot fathom how someone with supposedly extensive race engine experience would recommend a solution like this. I cannot imagine a nascar team that does not pre-oil an engine after a tear down. This is pretty standard for high end engine building and even special pre-oilling tools are sold to minimize the time before oil starts flowing.

If you would pre-oil a new engine, but would not do so after using 80PSI to evacuate your oil system, you need to do a lot more research.

Larry
 
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for anyone wondering about the pros and cons, a reminder as to how the system works, courtesy of DanH

I'm not sure there will be much of a reverse flow thru the pump. The way the pump builds up pressure is by turning, thereby filling the cavities between the housing and the gears, and creating the suction & pressure reactions.
The space between the gears and the housing, and the gears themselves is kept at a minimum, so only leakage will permit the pump to empty if not rotating...

How much time & pressure will it take to do this?
 

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.... First of all you are not blowing any contaminated oil or particulates back into the engine.
All that the filter catches in on the outside wrap of the filter media. The pierce of
the outer can on the filter does not compromise the media. The pierce tip is not that long.
Everything that the filter has captured is trapped in the filter when you remove it. The crud
cannot blow back past the anti drain reed valve in the filter, and inter the engine or it would
do this every time you shut it off. So This not possible and is of no concern. You are when
using this tool just evacuating the portion of the filter that would run out on the floor. When
you start your engine with a new filter, you are starting it with no oil in the filter. All that is
required to remedy that situation is to crank the engine about eight seconds and the filter is f
ull again! The restriction in the tool is only .085" and that is not anywhere near an adequate
air flow to blow everything in the cooler, filter, and oil passages back to the sump (perhaps
25% at most). The crank, bearings, cam, lifters and everything is still covered with oil,
and all is well.....:D:D

They lyc has an over pressure releif valve/flapper that will open and allow that air into the system. And yes, 80 PSI, even through an .085 orifice will be enough to evacuate the oil from the system. The fact that your tool will empty the filter and the cooler proves that. Simply no way that it is only enough to empty those two items and NOT the rest of the system.

A simple test for the fearless. Use this new tool, fill everything back up and watch your oil pressure gauge after startup. Maybe Allan can do a video of this, so we can see how long we are starving the engine after using this new miracle tool.
 
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for anyone wondering about the pros and cons, a reminder as to how the system works, courtesy of DanH

I'm not sure there will be much of a reverse flow thru the pump. The way the pump builds up pressure is by turning, thereby filling the cavities between the housing and the gears, and creating the suction & pressure reactions.
The space between the gears and the housing, and the gears themselves is kept at a minimum, so only leakage will permit the pump to empty if not rotating...

How much time & pressure will it take to do this?

The clearances are small enough that simple gravity with the right viscosity oil will not allow the pump to empty and require a prime. However, 80 PSI is a lot of force and while I obviously have not tested it, would be shocked if that was not enough to empty the pump. Remember that it has enough force to push oil through a 30-40 micron filter. Also, it is not just the pump. The pressurized air is blowing oil out of the gallies as well.

Larry
 
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Lycoming allows 30 seconds for the oil pressure to rise after start.

Can’t say I would be feeling relaxed watching no oil pressure for 30 seconds :eek:

Fin 9A
 
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... This tool does not empty the oil or any passage between the pump and the filter, as the filter has a non drain valve built into it so the oil pump or any passage between the pump and filter can't loose its prime. This area is completely unaffected by the use of this tool, and the oil cooler in not emptied during this process. Anyone that is this misinformed as to what actually takes place in this operation should, as we have done, put forth the effort, the time, the funds Etc. to do the testing and verify their suspicions. Only then should they pass those along as fact. Thanks, Allan--:D:D
 
As regards how long you can run the engine after start before oil pressure rises. From the Lycoming 0 320 manual:
“Check oil pressure gage. If minimum oil pressure is not indicated within thirty seconds, stop engine and determine trouble”.

Can’t say I would be feeling relaxed watching no oil pressure for 30 seconds :eek:

Fin 9A

... I am with you 100%, and I wouldn't be comfortable with that kind or timespan as well. When you change your oil and filter on a Lycoming engine with a horizontally mounted oil filter you do not have the option of pre-filling the filter with oil. One of the tests we preformed and repeated several times, was to test this timespan of no indicated oil pressure and any relationship between this tools use and its effect on this time delay. We observed very little effect, (surely not enough to warrant any concern), But in spite of this, we elected to restrict the air opening to .085" gradually reducing it to this point where no added time was indicated over that of just changing the oil filter alone. Our goal was to get rid of the mess when removing the oil filter and we feel we have accomplished this with a great little easy to use tool. We performed many different tests, and made changes in design wherever needed to accomplish this end. I'm pretty sure none of the three or four Nay Sayers have done any testing, and just want to participate in the discussion. This NO MESS/EASY TO USE TOOL has been extremely well excepted, as the first run of over 500 pieces sold in just two days. Thank you to all who made that possible and have faith in us and our products. Allan--:D:D
 
The clearances are small enough that simple gravity with the right viscosity oil will not allow the pump to empty and require a prime. However, 80 PSI is a lot of force and while I obviously have not tested it, would be shocked if that was not enough to empty the pump. Remember that it has enough force to push oil through a 30-40 micron filter. Also, it is not just the pump. The pressurized air is blowing oil out of the gallies as well.

Larry

Wouldn't the air take the path of least resistance? ie out the sump or fill neck if you have the cap off.

Note: I've done the 'caveman' version of this as described by another poster. I've never noticed any long delay in having oil pressure come up.
 
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... This tool does not empty the oil or any passage between the pump and the filter, as the filter has a non drain valve built into it so the oil pump or any passage between the pump and filter can't loose its prime. This area is completely unaffected by the use of this tool, and the oil cooler in not emptied during this process. D

Allan, at the 9 min mark of your product video you specifically say that the oil WILL be drained out of the oil cooler and galleys. The information in your video and in your posts here seems inconsistent to me. No?

Erich
 
Allan, at the 9 min mark of your product video you specifically say that the oil WILL be drained out of the oil cooler and galleys. The information in your video and in your posts here seems inconsistent to me. No?

Erich

....You are correct! I did refer to that and it was a mistake. The cooler on the test plane did drain and after further test it was determined why. The one that drained out was a remote cooler that was plumbed backwards from the accessory case. He has since changed that pluming when the mistake was discovered in our tests. Also that result was before we revisited the restriction and reduced it from .190" to .085" and that statement should have been edited out. I was just a bit over anxious to get the video up on the website. My mistake, thank you for pointing out that oversite, and we will fix it at first opportunity. Best, Allan--:eek:
 
In theory, this approach won't drain the cooler, for two reasons.

First, the rubber anti-drainback ring in the filter should seal. You're looking right it every time you cut a filter. See the photo. It blocks the ring of small filter inlet holes. Assuming it seals successfully with air pressure applied (it should), there won't be air pressure in any passage on the pump side of the filter.

Second, assume the above rubber valve leaks, but the vernatherm tip is not seated. That just makes pressure the same on both the cooler ports...none to blow out the oil.

The only way to blow oil out of the cooler is if the filter's drainback valve leaks and the vernatherm is above roughly 185F, so it is firmly against it's seat.

That said, a product mystery remains. I don't see it blowing all the oil from the filter given the typical horizontal AC-style filter adapter. If, as noted above, the oil can't flow back toward the pump, it can only leave the filter via the big center nipple. That means air pressure can only lower the filter level until the outlet nipple's ID is un-ported at its 12 o'clock. After that, no more oil can be forced from the filter into the engine oil passages, just air, and that air only drains the oil galleries, which is useless at best.

If I may, the ziploc bag trick works well. Or just pop a little hole in the top of the filter with a sharp punch, put a catch bowl under it, spin it 180 degrees, and pop another hole in the top. The entire filter contents will drain nicely.
.
 

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....You are correct! I did refer to that and it was a mistake. The cooler on the test plane did drain and after further test it was determined why. The one that drained out was a remote cooler that was plumbed backwards from the accessory case. He has since changed that pluming when the mistake was discovered in our tests.

Allen, would you kind enough to explain how a cooler can be plumbed backwards?
 
Allen, would you kind enough to explain how a cooler can be plumbed backwards?

Good question. I believe the 14 versus 14A lines are hooked up opposite going into the cooler because of different motor mount obstructions.
 
Allen, would you kind enough to explain how a cooler can be plumbed backwards?

... Hello Dan. This cooler was built by the customer, and is of the double pass variety with its inlet and outlet at the bottom. I believe what was happening is any air that made it to the cooler simply migrated to the top and allowed the oil to leave via the bottom. It hit me when he said "we need to bleed the cooler" at that point I finely caught on and we used a plane with a stock Vans cooler set-up for the rest of our testing.
 
... Hello Dan. This cooler was built by the customer, and is of the double pass variety with its inlet and outlet at the bottom. I believe what was happening is any air that made it to the cooler simply migrated to the top and allowed the oil to leave via the bottom. It hit me when he said "we need to bleed the cooler" at that point I finely caught on and we used a plane with a stock Vans cooler set-up for the rest of our testing.

So you believe pressure air can leave the filter past the anti-drainback, and bubble downhill, then up into the cooler, displacing the oil, all without pushing any oil back to the sump?

Never mind. Given a standard horizontal filter adapter, how does air pressure get all the oil out of the filter?
 
well... AntiSplat has some very good stuff on offer, just not sure about this one...

And I will stick to the 2’ long drain pipe cut in half, idea from another VAF thread, thanks: not a single drop lost, easy install, and costs within my meager budget ;)

Picture shows installed with the filter unscrewed some...
 

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