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Canopy center rail fit into receptacle

ColoRv

Well Known Member
Good Morning RV8 crew. I've spent a bit more of this morning looking at this than I would have thought possible. I've combed through a dozen RV8 build logs, the plans, the book....and I can't find the answer. I considered calling Gringo, but I bother him too much with silly questions already and besides he is out of town in a fly close to your buddy clinic. So thought I would put a quick post up here and see if it gets any attention.

The center rail runs along the top skin and drops into the receptacle. Seems pretty simple. When bent to the plan it doesn't sit flush all along that path and my OCD really thinks it should fit flush. But, there is a bevel on the end of the rail so that it fits against the receptacle correctly and it occurs to me that such a bevel wouldn't be needed if it were sitting flush..so perhaps its supposed to hump up like this so that the sliding block has clearance to turn the corner. Am I over thinking this? A picture being worth a thousand words and a simple question being best...does this picture look like it's supposed to?

IMG_2489_zpsf87ab8a5.jpg
 
Yes that looks typical. On mine, I left about 1/16" gape inbetween the rail and the nylon receptacle, this allows the receptacle to be removed without messing with the rail. I would not change the radius of that bend on the rail.

Bird
 
Mine looks just like yours and has worked fine for over a year. I think you may be correct in that if you were to bend the rail flush the block would interfere when rounding the corner.
 
Thanks Gents! I'll continue onward. Can't recall ever countersinking both sides of an assembly before...should be interesting.
 
C/S

Bill, the c/s on both sides works out ok. Just a double flush rivet like in the practice kit. I used a pneumatic squeezer and everything came out very smooth.

Steve
 
Bill, the c/s on both sides works out ok. Just a double flush rivet like in the practice kit. I used a pneumatic squeezer and everything came out very smooth.

Steve

Just finished squeezing it and you are, of course, correct. With the pneumatic it was a non event. Just me worrying over nothing. Thanks again gents. Now, who is coming over to show me how to glue a canopy on?

I have beer...and scotch. :)

I have not been looking forward to the canopy....
 
Before you drill the final holes for install just make sure the slide goes over the bend into the recess without interference. But to me it looks about like mine.
 
Sika

Bill, I used sikaflex and was happy with the result. I did drill 3 locating holes on each side so that I was always getting the canopy on the frame in the same location each time I removed to trim etc. Like Flyinga said, plenty of throw away clothes are a necessity. Sika is much like proseal--it attaches to everything within 10 feet! :eek:
 
Remember, you are building an airplane. Not a watch.

I once meet a fellow who worked at Cessna in ICT in the "Completion Center" where they put the finishing touches on everything from C-310's to Citations. (Yes, it was over 30 years ago.) Their motto was "Bend to Fit -- Paint to Match".

Dale
RV-8 N613DJ -- Finished with 80 hours on it.
 
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