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Oil hose - automotive

maxmirot

Well Known Member
I notice some slight leaking around the black rubbers oil return hoses from the cylinder heads.

I have some new black rubber auto power steering hose of the same size.

Is going to be safe as the aviation variety ?


I would like to see if this is the source of the leaking.

I plan eventually replacing this with something like teflon in 25 hours when do a oil change.

Max
 
Heater hose may not be oil resistant . Go to NAPA auto parts and ask for oil resistant hose in the size needed.
 
Why do you guys keep talking about heater hose? The Original poster never asked about heater hose.. he mentions power steering hose, which should work fine!

I have the thicker SAE 3/8 hose, I was looking for the constant force clamps for it, anybody have a link for them?
 
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Why do you guys keep talking about heater hose? The Original poster never asked about heater hose.. he mentions power steering hose, which should work fine!

I have the thicker SAE 3003 hose, I was looking for the constant force clamps for it, anybody have a link for them?

He asked about heater hose in post #2, though that link is not working properly now.

The constant force clamps are available on eBay if you search for "spring hose clamp", quality is unknown but they seem OK. I also got some from a local specialty auto parts store.
 
Power steering return is a good choice, but harder to find locally. I have used FI grade fuel hose and it has worked very well for me with no leaks. fuel is just a distilled grade of oil, so it is resistant. Must get the FI grade, as the standard is somewhat permeable and can leach oil over time. The 3/8" is what you want and available an any parts store. You can get the constant tension clamps from mcmaster, but will need the OD of the hose first.

Larry
 
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Power steering return is the same as 100R6. Used ALOT of it in a previous life.

We did these for Rick Gray on a RV14 several years ago. More expensive obviously, but solved a particular problem he was having.

Tom
 

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Part number STD-1821

What Tom is showing is definitely a long term cure for the issue.

The 3/8" is what you want and available an any parts store. You can get the constant tension clamps from mcmaster, but will need the OD of the hose first.

Larry
I agree with Larry on this.

The Lycoming part number is STD-1821, which is a 2.5" long, 3/8" ID rubber hose. If you buy these from a Lycoming parts vendor, you will find that it is a standard hose rated for oil and water that any auto parts store can provide.

Rather than screw type clamps, I recommend using ear clamps, which are a permanent clamp solution.
 
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I'm another long time user of "corner auto parts hose" and the constant tension clamps. Clamps are widely available from all the typical industrial supply places, (grainger, McMaster, MSC, etc), as well as wal-mart, and pretty much ANY auto parts store.

Dont overthink this. Zero pressure - oil resistant hose, and spring clamps. Very simple.
 
What Tom is showing is definitely a long term cure for the issue...

That's the understatement of the year right there. I'd call that the "nuclear option". Absolute overkill on every front - cost, weight, complexity...

This is an OIL DRAIN!
 
Mike---LOL---it was what Rick wanted to solve an issue he had with the return tubes on a project. Yes---probably overkill, not really that costly, but definitely solved the problem.

Tom
 
I notice some slight leaking around the black rubbers oil return hoses from the cylinder heads.

I have some new black rubber auto power steering hose of the same size.

Is going to be safe as the aviation variety ?


I would like to see if this is the source of the leaking.

I plan eventually replacing this with something like teflon in 25 hours when do a oil change.

Max

Dan Horton wrote this nice article in Kit Plane called "To Bead or Not to Bead" that I have filed away. If your tubes aren't beaded, it would probably help. The ABA clamps referred to in his article are also very nice.
 
Dan Horton wrote this nice article in Kit Plane called "To Bead or Not to Bead" that I have filed away. If your tubes aren't beaded, it would probably help. The ABA clamps referred to in his article are also very nice.

Another fine article from Dan. I'll give a plug for the Earl's EZ-Beader, which I bought one off Amazon and used for creating my six drain tubes...pretty easy and worked well for this small job.
 
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