Tapered pin on nose gear...

[lr172]

Originally Posted by M5fly

How were you able to torque the nut reaming from the top down? I'd prefer that route but didn't think it was possible.

The plans for the 6 have you cut a hole in the firewall to get a socket on the nut. You then make a small cover and adhere it with proseal/RTV or pop rivet it on. As Don mentioned, you probably can make a depression deep enough to get a wrench on it. I used a metric M8 bolt to get a couple more thou and it made mine tight. Once the bolt is tight in it's bore, I don't believe you will have further wear. MIne is at 750 hours and still tight.

A 5/16 bolt (excluding close tolerance bolts) is usually a couple thou under .311. I believe the range is .307-.310. A metric bolt will be much closer to .311 (.310-.313), though there is a tolerance range so bring your calipar and pick through the bin to find the largest one. You want a fit just snug enough that light taps with a brass hammer are required to get it in. Be aware that the bore in the leg can be tight, but the bore in the sleeve still loose and that will require more work to get right. Both must be snug fits.

As mentioned, be sure the bolt has the FULL OD at the entry and exit point. Note that some bolts have a relatively long taper just before the threads. Just use extra washers. No issue busting the 3 washer rule here.

Larry

[M5fly]

Originally Posted by lr172

The plans for the 6 have you cut a hole in the firewall to get a socket on the nut. You then make a small cover and adhere it with proseal/RTV or pop rivet it on. As Don mentioned, you probably can make a depression deep enough to get a wrench on it. I used a metric M8 bolt to get a couple more thou and it made mine tight. Once the bolt is tight in it's bore, I don't believe you will have further wear. MIne is at 750 hours and still tight.

A 5/16 bolt (excluding close tolerance bolts) is usually a couple thou under .311. I believe the range is .307-.310. A metric bolt will be much closer to .311 (.310-.313), though there is a tolerance range so bring your calipar and pick through the bin to find the largest one. You want a fit just snug enough that light taps with a brass hammer are required to get it in. Be aware that the bore in the leg can be tight, but the bore in the sleeve still loose and that will require more work to get right. Both must be snug fits.

As mentioned, be sure the bolt has the FULL OD at the entry and exit point. Note that some bolts have a relatively long taper just before the threads. Just use extra washers. No issue busting the 3 washer rule here.

Larry

Ah, I wondered exactly what that hole/cover was for. I may try this route first and if it doesn't fix it I've still got everything I need to go the taper pin route.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by M5fly

Ah, I wondered exactly what that hole/cover was for. I may try this route first and if it doesn't fix it I've still got everything I need to go the taper pin route.

Hole in firewall not needed..... Bolt pointing down is much easier to remove and install. Open end wrench works just fine.

[M5fly]

I had access to an NAS6205-25 bolt through work (I know it wasn't the 6605 series but it was the closest I could get) so I decided to give the easy fix a try. I knew it would be close but wasn't quite sure there would be enough threads to get the nut on. It took a few taps of the hammer to get it in, but it fit and removed all play without the nut on. With one washer under the nut I ended up with just enough threads to get the nut on with a safe buffer.

Thanks to those who encouraged me to try this easy fix, I think it will be a long lasting solution.

[Nick6A]

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