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  #11  
Old 11-16-2013, 09:56 PM
copilot001 copilot001 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: etobicoke ontario canada
Posts: 6
Default clarifacation

matronics site states that for a AN386-4-13 taper pin we should use a#3 taper reamer. but elsewhere it's suggested that the first dash number of the pin is the number for the reamer....
so...which is correct?

that said,my #3 reamer isn't cutting anymore. guess I'll have to get another one.
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  #12  
Old 11-17-2013, 08:32 AM
Jim Ellis's Avatar
Jim Ellis Jim Ellis is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Flower Mound, Texas
Posts: 140
Default Reamer Size

In this application either a #3 or a #4 reamer will work. The #3 will fit a little further into the predrilled hole before it starts to cut. Also it may be a little less expensive to purchase than a #4 reamer.
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RV-7A, N23VC, Slider, Garmin G3X Touch Panel,
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RV-9A, N155T, Sold
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:36 PM
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comfortcat comfortcat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 618
Default Done!

Well, last week-end we finally finished the taper pin for the nose wheel landing gear on my RV-9A, and thought I'd share my results.
Please note: I'm not a machinist, or A/P or anyone who knows anything about this stuff. Only sharing what I did.

I followed the Jim Ellis instructions pretty close but with some important additions (at least for me)
Jim's instructions are here:

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

First. I made sure the motor mount was secured to the work table. I used adel clamps and screwed it to the work bench:


NOTE Towels and plastic. I used LOTS of oil!

Next I drilled out the hole first with a 3/16, then the S that Jim recommends. Use a powerful 1/2 inch drill motor and use LOTS of oil. Go slow and keep the bit clean and well oiled. BruceH said he had trouble drilling. I had none.

Next I started with the taper. LOTS of oil, only by hand, and take your time. Even though I had a brand new ACS tapered reamer, there seemed to be little cutting, and no good chips that I expected to see. I kept the taper clean and well oiled and still I made almost no progress. After 2 hours, we gave up for the day.

The point here is that the taper never made chips. The reamer looked sharp and was brand new, but after reading all the noise on this site, I figure this is just how it works.

Cruising on eBay, I found a shop that sold reamers for a lot less than I paid, and decided a backup reamer was in order. I talked to Jon at North Bay Cutting Tools and was able to get another taper for about $29 plus shipping. BTW: I screwed up my order and Jon helped me out with great customer service. I bought what I thought was the #3 taper, and it was smaller than my little pinkie!

Anyway, I got the new reamer, and was starting again with the old one. Little progress and no chips. So, what the heck, I'll try the new one.

HOLY COW!!!! What a difference!

It got right to work. So did I.



Follow the same rules: Go slow. LOTS of oil and keep the reamer cleaned out. I turned only a few turns and removed the taper and cleaned out the shavings. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Less than 30 minute later, BINGO. Beautiful.


Here are the added tricks I found:

Anchor your work
Drill twice (3/16 then S) and use a slow turning powerful drill.
Get a good taper reamer. Talk to Jon at
jonbrunetti@hotmail.com
Use LOTS of oil
Ream by hand
Keep the tool clean and free of shavings
Use lots of oil
AND: Check the fit often! This was cutting a lot faster than I thought.

Dkb


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  #14  
Old 11-20-2013, 09:26 PM
copilot001 copilot001 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: etobicoke ontario canada
Posts: 6
Unhappy NFG reamers?

I got all my stuff from ACS and the reamer didn,t ream worth a hoot.
Brown&sharpe is the reamer ACS supplied.
I,ll get another reamer and try again
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2013, 04:27 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Default

Hmm.. Me too. I bought 3 reams from ACS (broke 2 trying to get them to cut) and never got them to cut like is shown in the image above. After many hrs of hand reaming, I fixtured a leg in the mill so I could use the quill to provide downpressure on the back of the tap handle and still turn the ream by hand. No luck. I moved from tap handle to a 1/2" ratchet drive and cheater bar in order to turn the ream with the amount of pressure need to make it do anything (fine dust). Used 3 different oils, the last being sulfer based (the heavy stuff used for threading pipe). The reams snapped from friction loading, not chip load.

So, after failing miserably and left with gear legs that were unuseable.......

I wound up designing and fabricating fixtures to hold the legs in a wire EDM in order to cut the tapers. I finished by match reaming these legs to the weldments. The 3rd ACS ream cut the unhardened weldments just fine.

It was an expensive exercise but I got what I wanted in taper pins for all 3 legs.
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Last edited by rzbill : 11-21-2013 at 04:46 AM.
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  #16  
Old 11-21-2013, 10:14 PM
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comfortcat comfortcat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 618
Default Cutting Oil?

For oil, I just used motor oil. Nothing fancy, and it seemed to work for me.

Kinda hard to see, but here is a picture of the cuttings. Long, not powdery. I kept the taper clean as much as possible.

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  #17  
Old 11-22-2013, 08:26 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Location: Ramona, CA
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Default ACS reamer

I had my reamer from ACS cutting just fine when I started, but then it stopped cutting. I was able to very lightly dress the interior edges of the reamer with a very fine stone, and it was resurrected. The same reamer has been used by several other builders and continues to cut just fine.

I used lots of cutting oil from Snap-On tools. Stinky stuff, but essential. As David says, you can't use too much oil.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2013, 08:39 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Default

I hear ya' Bruce. I tried stoning the edges on my first reamer but maybe I made it worse. It does take the right tool and a bit of skill. I imagine the stinky oil you mentioned was sulphur based. When loaded via powertool cutting, it emits an aromatic smoke.
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Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82 Retired.
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 980 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX Horizons & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2014, 07:01 AM
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Taildrgr Taildrgr is offline
 
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Location: DFW Area, TX
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Default

I just finished my taper pin installation in my -7A. I bought my reamer from ACS, but after reading about all the problems on VAF with the reamer not cutting, I ordered a second one from Travers. Turns out I didn't need the second one, the ACS reamer cut the hole in 30 minutes of hand turning. The process was very easy.
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2014, 06:24 PM
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comfortcat comfortcat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 618
Talking 30 minute tapered pin...

Great!

Do you have any pictures?

I saw a note about a nose bolt shearing, and was glad I did the tapered pin. After reading all the nightmares, I was not sure I wanted a tapered pin. But as it turned out, it was easy.

CAUTION!!! Your mileage may vary!

CC


Quote:
Originally Posted by Taildrgr View Post
I just finished my taper pin installation in my -7A. I bought my reamer from ACS, but after reading about all the problems on VAF with the reamer not cutting, I ordered a second one from Travers. Turns out I didn't need the second one, the ACS reamer cut the hole in 30 minutes of hand turning. The process was very easy.
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