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Close Tolerence Wing Bolts

ctbecker

Well Known Member
Today we drove the NAS bolts for the wings of out 8A. Use beolube and a brass tipped Rivet Set # 12-01543 ECON BRASS RIVET SET from Aircraft Spruce. All 16 bolts in - 30 minutes or less. Now the problem. I drove the big bolts on the bottom the whole way in with the rivet gun. There is not now enough room to get the nut on the bolt as the landing gear weldment is in the way. Cant get any room to drive the bolt back out about an inch or so to make room for the washer and nut. I'm sure I'm not the first. Any thoughts on how to back the bolt out enough to get the washer and nut on?
 
Ugh ...

I pondered your situation when I was mutterin', sputterin' and cussin' putting the bolts in. It was such a struggle, I kept wondering what I would have done if I hadn't left room to turn the nuts on. My thought was I'd have to apply some kind of twisting motion (rotating the bolt in the hole) simultaneous with a prying action under the head of the bolt. Since there's no way to get a good straight pull on the bolt heads, it seems some kind of twisting/rotation would be absolutely necessary. I think the challenge would be getting just a little slack under the bolt head, enough to allow some kind of pry bar or big a** screwdriver in there to start prying. That's my $0.02 worth ... sorry I don't have a tried and true method.
 
Can you get a bar in there to lay on the bolt end and place a block of wood on the other end between it and the spar...... and then hit on the bar between with your rivet gun?

I don't know how the 8A gear mount looks, just a shot in the dark.
 
I don't know the geometry of the weldment in there, but if you can get some leverage to put pressure on the bottom of the bolt while simultaneously using a wrench to turn the head, you may be able to get it backed off enough to get a nut (and don't forget a washer if its called out!) on it.

Greg
 
Pry bar

I did this but with store bought bolts.
Took a construction type flat bar bought at the
Hardware store. Used for demo, pulling nails, removing
wood trim etc. I ground and sharpened the tapered
Tip. This allowed a bite under the bolt head. Twisting and prying
Got the bolt out enough that I could get the pry bar
slot under the bolt head. I modified the slot with a grinder
And opened it up enough for the diam. Of the bolt.

Once the initial movement started it came out with the twist/pull method.
Using the leverage flat bar.

Not sure you will have the se luck with the close tolerance
Bolts. But maybe worth a try. I feel your pain.
 
There is not now enough room to get the nut on the bolt as the landing gear weldment is in the way.

Did you remember to put washers under the heads of the bolts as indicated on the drawings ? If not then you will need to be very circumspect about using any rotational movement on the bolts as you attempt to back them out because damage/scoring to the main spar carry-through is a strong possibility.
 
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I used a box end wrench. Put the box over the head, pull back while working the bolt back and forth. Takes a while but it gradually started coming out. If the box is tight enough on the head of the bolt you can sort of pry backwards and it will lock onto the head of the bolt instead of slipping off.
 
Well, we were able to back the bolts out enough to get the washers and nuts on. A lever on the threaded end, and a half inch drive ratchet on the bolt plush a heavy dose of elbow grease.
 
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