How to build a RV-6 for a tall pilot??

Just starting to work on the fuse of a RV6 kit I purchased, and have been searching for info on building it with the most interior room possible. Besides seat cushions and pedal adjustment, what can I do to maximize the room?

Does a slider or Tip-up provide more room for the shoulders? Thanks, Lance

Several approaches have been used. I can't speak for any of them and would touch base with the factory on each one before I made the mod...

1) People have cut down the seat ribs to provide more seat to canopy clearance.

2) People have raised the canopy to give more seat to canopy clearance.

3) People have repositioned the cross-cockpit brace (the one which serves as the back-stop for the seats) aft.

All of these address torso and/or leg length more than shoulder width.

Again, I would touch base with the factory before doing any of these. They might tell you "here's how" or "no way, no how".

also you can move the rudder pedals forward a little.

Also tall

I'm 6'4" with 36" inseam. Fit is OK for me so long as no sub panels under the stock panel.

Built plane originally with floor mounted pedals. Later converted to suspended pedals. Big help. Also, did away with the vertical post for engine controls which helped, but was done mostly to get at least a little bit of under the panel access.

Keith W.
Milan, IL
RV6 flying since 1999
RV12 - doing the gas tank

Thanks for the replies, I will look into them. I did my transition training in a 6, and the legroom was fine. I was more concerned with shoulder width.

Any thoughts on the slider or tip-up?

Interior

Lance, on our -6A, we used the Classic Aero interior, including the well-done side panels and lower map pockets.

This does take away some shoulder room, though not much, maybe 1 1/2 inches. So, if max shoulder room is what you need, go with carpeting the inner side skins for appearance sake and not the full Classic sides, because they go all the way up to the upper longerons.

Best,