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Three blade props

vgb

Well Known Member
I have been looking at three blade props for my RV7A and was wondering has anyone had experience with getting the lower cowl off and on with the the stock hinge setup. Looking at the catto props. Its kinda a pain with a two blade.
Thanks
 
I have the three blade Catto on my 9. I cannot put the lower cowl on solo. I also have the Adam James cowl/plenum. The air intake is the snafu.
 
A one blade prop would be easier than a two blade. A three blade takes a lot more wrangling than you do with a two blade right now.
 
I switched from a 2 blade Hartzell to a 3 blade MT. No change in difficulty solo in the shop. I use a rolling hospital patient table with a padded cowl support. It would be difficult doing it solo in the field with either 2 or 3 blades but not impossible.
 
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I have the 3-blade Catto and have put the cowl on solo, however it is much easier with two people. I have become better at installing it over the year.
 
I have the 3-blade Catto and have put the cowl on solo, however it is much easier with two people. I have become better at installing it over the year.

Same here I can do my Catto 3 blade solo, but with 2 its really a no problem. I do have covers I put over the 2 blades to protect them from nicks while installing/removing.
 
11+ years putting the lower cowl on solo. Yes it is more difficult but not really that big of an issue. Try doing what I do to protect the blades. I place my arms underneath the two downward facing blades with the tops of my lower arms between the cowl hinges and the prop blades. The arms protect the blades.
 
MT 3 Blade

Getting the cowling off on my 7A requires removing the front gear wheel pant. I can do it myself but as stated by other, 2 is always easier.
 
I have a 3 blade Catto, James Cowl, camlock "chainsaw" fasteners, and put mine on solo all the time. In fact I have never had anyone help me put it on. The air intake was was designed to make that possible. It isnt easy and you need a blanket to cover the gear leg and the risk of scratching is huge, but it can be done.

I will get a pic of the mod but I put the cowl on and then fir the transition to the FAB and then install a custom aluminum ring on that is held in place with a set screw. I will get a picture of it tomorrow.
 

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A key to keeping the cowl from getting more difficult to install and remove on a tri-gear RV after installing a three blade prop, is extending the slot in the bottom of the cowl about 3 inches and make a longer block-out plate.
 
A key to keeping the cowl from getting more difficult to install and remove on a tri-gear RV after installing a three blade prop, is extending the slot in the bottom of the cowl about 3 inches and make a longer block-out plate.

Or move the tailwheel back to where it belongs! Sorry, couldn't resist.
 
More... you want more?

you said extend the slot 3".

Is this in addition to the bigger slot on the new cowl for the updated nose gear?

Or does the new cowl for the updated nose gear already includes this additional length?
 
you said extend the slot 3".

Is this in addition to the bigger slot on the new cowl for the updated nose gear?

Or does the new cowl for the updated nose gear already includes this additional length?

No, It isn’t something I want, it is a recommendation I made.
The dimension given for the new nose gear was fora typical installation ( 2 blade prop.), so a 3 blade would probably require more.

Maybe the advice should be “install your prop and then see if you can get the cowl off. If you can’t, keep lengthening the opening until you can” :rolleyes:

The main point is that you have to lower the cowl further when removing it with a 3 blade prop. If you have a nose gear, doing so will require a longer slot.
 
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