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Flush Riveting Results

StressedOut

Well Known Member
I finished double flush riveting the trim tab trailing edge and these are the results (I hope this photo comes through). The shop head is sitting about 0.030 in. proud from the skin.

Before I rivet the TE on the rest of the elevator tomorrow I'd like some confirmation that this is acceptable or if it needs to be flush with the skin. My main fear is cracking the rivet. I made three passes on each rivet to get this far because I was concerned about keeping the edge straight. So far the trim tab TE is straight to 0.020 in. along the entire length.

On a related note, the plans call out using a AD3-4.5 rivet. I had another location that had to be double flush riveted and I substituted a half size small length rivet and got great results. It seems that using a AD3-4 here would be a bit easier to make it flush on the shop head.

What are your recommendations? Should I make another pass to try and get it flush or just leave it alone? Should I use a AD3-4 on the main TE?
 

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Attach your photo using the paperclip icon.
 

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image attachment common error

Make sure you click "upload" before closing the attachment dialog box. I've noticed this is a common error: people think the attachment has happened as soon as they've finished selecting their local file.
 
image attachment common error

Make sure you click "upload" before closing the attachment dialog box. I've noticed this is a common error: people think the attachment has happened as soon as they've finished selecting their local file.

... a little self reference paradox for your enjoyment.
 

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Error fixed

Thanks everybody. I've fixed the original post. I tried to use an image hosting server, but it didn't work. The attachment method is by far easier to use.
 
Double flush

Looks kinda like they are a bit too short to fully fill the dimple. It's also possible they work hardened and refused to spread out. Not sure I would bother drilling them. They look structurally sound.
 
Looks kinda like they are a bit too short to fully fill the dimple. It's also possible they work hardened and refused to spread out. Not sure I would bother drilling them. They look structurally sound.

They're the size called out in the plans. The work hardening is what I'm worried about. I might try to squeeze one rivet to flush and see if it works. If I crack it it's not an issue to drill out one. I just don't want to do it for all of them.
 
I have these and I am about 2 days from tackling the trailing edge on a 7…. Have you used them and what do you think of them? Any tips or considerations?

They made it stupid easy.

I partially set the rivets, starting from the center, and alternating out towards the ends. An old Avery hand squeezer was great for this. Then I went back over them with a pneumatic to finish.
 
They made it stupid easy.

I partially set the rivets, starting from the center, and alternating out towards the ends. An old Avery hand squeezer was great for this. Then I went back over them with a pneumatic to finish.

Great to know….. so is it absolutely imperative to partially squeeze them first? Or just nail them all the way first time? If so, I’m thinking just back the regular flat sets out to limit the squeeze.
 
Great to know….. so is it absolutely imperative to partially squeeze them first? Or just nail them all the way first time? If so, I’m thinking just back the regular flat sets out to limit the squeeze.

It’s my impression that the elevator trailing edge is a bit less sensitive to warping than the rudder due to the shape of elevator wedge (at least on the RV-14A that I’m building). I’m following the recommendation in section 5 for the trailing edge riveting procedure and I got very good results. The only difference is I’m using the Cleaveland Tools safety pin angled dies to set my rivets instead of back riveting.
 
It’s my impression that the elevator trailing edge is a bit less sensitive to warping than the rudder due to the shape of elevator wedge (at least on the RV-14A that I’m building). I’m following the recommendation in section 5 for the trailing edge riveting procedure and I got very good results. The only difference is I’m using the Cleaveland Tools safety pin angled dies to set my rivets instead of back riveting.

I have that same angled set. So squeeze them with a flat set slightly first and then use the angled set to fully set?
 
Flush riveting tools

I was unfamiliar with the Flush Riveting tools so I asked Cleveland to explain them to me. This is their reply:


The (2) tools are made specifically / on purpose this way (the dies have different angles and are turned opposite directions on purpose) for two different tasks in squeezing the trailing edge rivets on Van’s Aircraft control surfaces (note there are two different style control surfaces).



The RED tool (identified with the RED heat shrink tubing) / part #14-1801 &/or SSF14 is ONLY TO BE USED ON THE RV14 ELEVATORS as these elevators have a reverse angle (that is -- the trailing edge is thicker on the back edge and is thinner about 3/4"forward of the trailing edge). The RED tool will ONLY BE USED ON THE RV-14 ELEVATORS -- it will not work on any of the other RV Aircraft control surfaces as those control surfaces (rudders / ailerons / flaps) are constructed differently.



The BLUE tool (identified with the BLUE heat shrink tubing) part # SSF 679 is for all the Van’s Aircraft control surfaces that the trailing edges taper to a point (that is – the control surfaces have a constant taper over the entire cord down to the trailing edge that comes to a point). The BLUE tool works on the RV-14 rudder / ailerons / & flaps (BUT NOT THE RV-14 ELEVATORS – AS THAT TAKES THE RED TOOL). Also, the BLUE tool works on all the other RV kits that have the control surfaces that taper to a thin edge.



Hope this helps explain all this. Also, please reference / review the instruction sheets we include in with both of the tools as the instructions are written to try and help understand the use of both tools for their specific construction task.



Regards;



Bob Avery

Avery Tools
 
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