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  #11  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:15 PM
AlpineYoda AlpineYoda is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 274
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Zip tips are nicely finished fiberglass with terrific lights. They are a great all-in-one solution that provides all the lights you need in a single, aerodynamic place without any additional work. The flange that connects the wingtip to the wing requires about the same amount of work as the stock wingtips. You need to cut the flange down to the right depth and then attach nutplates / dimple / countersink /rivet / screw OR drill / c'sink / rivet piano hinges.

The stock wingtips require you to cut, fit, and attach the lens to the wingtip and install the lighting. Zip tips come with the lens and all wires and lights installed.

You need to run the appropriate wire bundle to each wingtip (as I recall, 13 wires to one, 11 to the other - the difference is the strobe sync and master/slave control wires only go to one side).

You also need to attach the access panel covers to the underside of each wingtip. The access panels are about the size of a dessert plate. No instructions are given. I drilled about 16 holes per panel, countersunk for screws, and added nutplates to the wingtips to secure the access panel covers. Other people have reported that two sided tape might work or they cover the entire thing in auto vinyl since the access panels are needed to be accessed really infrequently (never?) once they are installed. Not sure how either of those will hold up at 200 mph.

One word of caution - the flanges that attach the zip tips to the wing are rather thin, as are the access panel attachment flanges. I had riveted a nutplate directly to the access panel flange fiberglass with countersunk rivets, and the torque of a screw into the nutplate tore it loose.

As a result, in addition to all of the above work, I cut sections of 0.025 aluminum sheet in 1/2 inch sections to run along each attachment flange. The aluminum sits between the thin fiberglass and the nutplates. In some places, I drilled and countersunk holes for additional rivets holding the metal to the fiberglass. I also added epoxy to the aluminum - fiberglass joint. The result is far more torque resistance - turning a screw now puts pressure on a nutplate secured by a long sheet of metal held in place by a dozen rivets and epoxy, rather than just two little rivets on the nutplate.

I also used Tinnerman washers on the access panel covers since countersinking for #8 screws gets pretty deep into a thin piece. The Tinnermans make it really strong again. Auto vinyl in lieu of paint on the access panel cover holds them in place nicely.
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Started 12/19/2019
Engine hung 1/9/2021
Panel hopefully coming in 2Q 2021

N1814T reserved with FAA
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:17 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronshort2000 View Post
SNIP.

Oh yeah, I also want the capacitive sensors for the fuel tanks. Not sure if that is what they are called.
Do yourself a favor, use the standard float senders. Search VAF for capacitive sender problems.

Once calibrated (SkyView system) the float senders read within a gallon of actual once in indication range.

Carl
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:20 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,436
Default Kit list

If you contact Van's, they will send you the kit list...

...and the stall warning is included in one of the kits...
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:21 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronshort2000 View Post
Most of my question was geared towards what modifications do I need to make to the kit when I order. It sounds like removing the tips might be the only change?

Does the stall warning come as part of the kit? (would be easier if they provided a kit parts list in advance) I am going to go with a heated pitot and AOA since I am going full IFR.

Oh yeah, I also want the capacitive sensors for the fuel tanks. Not sure if that is what they are called.

I will wait for the last minute for avionics, was just wondering when I have to install the servos.

Thanks for all the help so far!
They will e-mail an inventory shipping list (BOM). Call and ask for it. Very useful.
I wouldn't delete the tips. You won't get full price credit. If you change your mind, they will be on the shelf. If not, someone will certainly buy them. Make sure all fiberglass parts are stored edge down so they don't distort.
Capacitive plates are no longer an option but you can make your own with dimensions from the OP drawing. Should be on the USB plans drive. If you don't have it, buy it. Very useful.
Stall kit is usually included but check the sample BOM to be certain.
If you know what brand electronics you can always order the mounting kit and even the cable and save the servo purchase for later.
Not sure about the 10 but the 7 has tie diwn brackets bolted to the wing spar. I bought the predrilled and tapped brackets from Cleveland. Also installed them so they are flush to the wing skin.
Check the BOM for the Vans corrugated conduit. Can't remember if it was included.
There are some other tips.
Hold off on Proseal till you're ready for it.
Install sealed nutplates for the tank access panel. Makes it easier to seal the panel.
Start thinking about a jig if you plan to build with one (or two).
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:22 PM
AlpineYoda AlpineYoda is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 274
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Just saw your last - yes, the stall warning system comes with the wing. Includes the vane, the switch behind the vane, wires, and the alarm you mount in your panel.

I'm still building, so I don't know how it works in flight, but the action of mine feels very similar to the other planes in the hangar I share. Not sure why others delete it and fill in the hole. Stall warnings can save your butt and AOA systems have been known to fail, even in Boeing planes (737 max, anyone?). NOT installing a stall system seems like a mistake to me.

The big thing for you to delete are the wingtips and the lenses. Will save you maybe $600-800. I had to ship mine back to Van's to get credit and they take a 20% restocking haircut. Plus shipping something that bulky was rather expensive. Was barely worth it shipping them back, but no one on this site or locally wanted to take them off my hands. A few bucks back in my pocket was better than some very large paperweights.

You could delete the 1/4 aluminum pipe, too, if you are going to use an AFS or Garmin or some other pitot tube. These can be attached to vinyl tubing for better ease of maintenance or installation. But the aluminum tubing is pretty cheap - not a huge savings here.
__________________
RV-10 build blog -- https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&proj=7ZSwfzr2g
Started 12/19/2019
Engine hung 1/9/2021
Panel hopefully coming in 2Q 2021

N1814T reserved with FAA
Donated Jan 11 for 2021, EAA and AOPA member
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  #16  
Old 03-26-2021, 03:45 PM
jacoby jacoby is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: WNC
Posts: 297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronshort2000 View Post
Most of my question was geared towards what modifications do I need to make to the kit when I order. It sounds like removing the tips might be the only change?

Does the stall warning come as part of the kit? (would be easier if they provided a kit parts list in advance) I am going to go with a heated pitot and AOA since I am going full IFR.

Oh yeah, I also want the capacitive sensors for the fuel tanks. Not sure if that is what they are called.

I will wait for the last minute for avionics, was just wondering when I have to install the servos.

Thanks for all the help so far!
Stall warning is included. If you decide to not install the stall warning all you have to do is fill a couple of rivet holes and you'll gain an extra access panel and some wire and a couple of connectors you can install somewhere else if you choose. You should have enough leftover VHB tape or sealant from the empennage to do the TE on the flaps and ailerons.

There really aren't a lot of mods to be done with the wings beyond the pitot mast and running conduit (if you choose) and your lighting and autopilot wires. The zip tips (as far as i know) come undrilled and install the same as the stock tips.

You can elect to change out the fuel sender screws with cap screws or philips+hex headed screws for easier service later. The 14 uses the cap screws. And you'll want some star washers to make sure you get good contact where the sealant oozes out.

If you are contemplating running a fuel return line, grab a couple of va-141 to install while you make the tanks or use bulkhead fittings with stat-o-seals. Just be really careful to not install them too far aft; the rv-14 position almost works but you still need to move them forward and down a bit to clear the tank top stiffener.

You will need two cans of sealant to build the tanks (i used about 1-1/3 cans). Wait until you're ready to start to order them though.

Email sales and they can send you the pick list for the wing kit (and all the other kits too if you want them).
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2021, 06:58 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,637
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I went with standard tips attached with piano hinge, and Paul's FlyLeds Nav/strobes. I rolled my own landing lights from Cree LED flashlight heads in Duckworth mounts, but that was before FlyLeds offered a landing light solution which IMO is a no-brainer now that it's available. Never saw the appeal of ZipTips beyond sex appeal on the ground. I would never consider them for flight utility, and allocate the money saved somewhere else in the build. Just my $.02
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RV-10 - N130YD - Phase 1 flying

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  #18  
Old 03-26-2021, 07:25 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
... Never saw the appeal of ZipTips beyond sex appeal on the ground. I would never consider them for flight utility, and allocate the money saved somewhere else in the build. Just my $.02
Same here. My fear of Ziptips is the low volume and the changing nature of LED lights. What happens when the light in the wingtip dies? Can you easily find a replacement in 5 years? 10?
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2021, 08:40 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 7,356
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I kept the Vans stall warning as well as two different (!) AOA systems. If doing again, Iíd delete the Vans stall warning and cover the slot. Main reason: with good noise cancelling headphones I canít really hear the Radio Shack buzzer. And the AOA warning tones are superior to the buzzer. But then plan on calibrating the AOA on the first flight.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2021, 08:55 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,948
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Optionitis

(op-shun-i-tus)

1. A disease of homebuilt airplane builders, characterized by endless rationalization. Secondary symptoms include (a) slow build progress, (b) self-doubt, (c) eyestrain. Severity varies widely. Some option heavily without apparent effort, while others succumb to analysis paralysis.

Optionitis is often diagnosed concurrent with Empty Wallet Syndrome.

Epidemiology is complex, but the primary vector appears to be internet contact with other infected individuals. Most patients eventually gain some degree of immunity, if they reach their second build.
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