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Replacing keyed ignition switch with toggles

M

maus92

Well Known Member
I'm trying to find wiring diagram for converting a traditional keyed ignition switch to separate toggle switches and a pushbutton start switch, but I'm having trouble locating something appropriate. I really don't want to make a mistake, and unintentionally enable a hot mag...

BTW, these are standard Slick magnetos with no booster.

Thanks!

CA
 
You could use a SPST on one mag, and a DPDT on the other, with the starter push button power wired through one side of the DPDT. The other side of the DPDT, and the SPST just ground each of the mags.

Put the DPDT on the mag with the impulse coupler.
 
Slicks use P-lead and switch to ground.
Starter relay uses +12 to switch relay contactor.

So on each of your toggles, one side of the switch to ground, the other side of the switch to the P-lead. Confirm with ohm meter that each switch is switching to ground with the p-lead OFF the mag. When grounded, the mag will not fire. You will get continuity through the mag on the P-lead which is why you test it with it off the mag.

On starter switch, one side of switch hot +12 to your bus fused. The other side of the switch to the starter relay +12 input to engage coil for starter relay.
 
Here is a schematic showing two toggles and a push button start switch:

http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/001510VFRSingleALT.pdf

This diagram shows the right ignition being electronic, but you can wire both mags as shown for the left mag. Be sure you wire the toggles closed (on) for mags off so they will be grounded properly.

I've been flying this wiring for 16 years and it has worked flawlessly.
 
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If you email me I will happy to send you my diagram with with starter lockout wiring.

Don
 
You might consider using a keyed switch for the starter rather than a push button for safety reasons. Or in the fuel circuit or something. The RV12 has 2 switches for the dual ignitions and a keyed starter.
 
Wire through the strobes

Here's a trick I use when using toggle switches, especially since Rotax recommends not using the standard key switches. I wire the 12 volts to the starter switch through the Strobe light switch. That way the strobes are on for starting and it takes both the master switch and the strobes on for the starter to be hot. Adds a little level of security and safety.

Vic
 
By using double throw switches......

My starter switch is wired through the back side of my avionics master switch.
If the avionics switch is on, the starter will not operate.

If you have a standard dual mag set-up, you can do the same thing through the back side of the right mag switch. I didn't want to do it this way because I have dual impulse mags.
 
Mel said:
If you have a standard dual mag set-up, you can do the same thing through the back side of the right mag switch. I didn't want to do it this way because I have dual impulse mags.
Click to expand...

Or, you could also use a DPDT on each mag, wire the starter power in series through both switches. That way both mags must be hot to engage the starter.

Lots of ways to remove the fur from this feline.

All this is pretty basic to draw up, way simpler than trying to figure out how to get a drawing added here.
 
Mel said:
My starter switch is wired through the back side of my avionics master switch.
If the avionics switch is on, the starter will not operate...
Click to expand...

I thought long and hard about doing just that. In the end, I decided that I might just need to engage the starter in flight. The chances are so remote as to be incalculable, but I just can't get past that possibility.
 
Toobuilder said:
I thought long and hard about doing just that. In the end, I decided that I might just need to engage the starter in flight. The chances are so remote as to be incalculable, but I just can't get past that possibility.
Click to expand...

Same here, my starter push button is wired through the master switch so inflight restart would be possible without having to remember what combination of switches have to be thrown to energize the starter.
 
Something nobody has mentioned yet is the mechanical aspect of the switch installation. If you're note careful, this will bite you!

Normally we install toggle switches so when the toggle is "UP" in the "ON" position, the switch contacts are closed. Mag switches are exactly the opposite. "UP" actually is the "open circuit" position.

A good general guideline is the small hole we use for the anti-rotation washer on the switch is normally below the big hole for the switch toggle. For mag switches, the holes for the anti-torque washers are above the switch toggle.
 
Toobuilder said:
I thought long and hard about doing just that. In the end, I decided that I might just need to engage the starter in flight. The chances are so remote as to be incalculable, but I just can't get past that possibility.
Click to expand...

My feeling on that is if you loose the engine during flight caused by fuel starvation, etc., the prop will continue to windmill. If the prop stops, you have other problems and probably don't want to use the starter anyway. Absolute worse case, you could always turn the avionics off to do a restart, but I can't imagine what circumstances would cause this scenario. YMMV.
Bottom line; Everyone needs to do whatever they are comfortable with.
 
Canadian_JOY said:
Something nobody has mentioned yet is the mechanical aspect of the switch installation. If you're note careful, this will bite you!

Normally we install toggle switches so when the toggle is "UP" in the "ON" position, the switch contacts are closed. Mag switches are exactly the opposite. "UP" actually is the "open circuit" position.

A good general guideline is the small hole we use for the anti-rotation washer on the switch is normally below the big hole for the switch toggle. For mag switches, the holes for the anti-torque washers are above the switch toggle.
Click to expand...

You are correct...and it was inferred with bold font in post #4. :)

But it never hurts to reinforce this info because switches installed incorrectly could be deadly.
 
Mel said:
My feeling on that is if you loose the engine during flight caused by fuel starvation, etc., the prop will continue to windmill. If the prop stops, you have other problems and probably don't want to use the starter anyway. Absolute worse case, you could always turn the avionics off to do a restart, but I can't imagine what circumstances would cause this scenario. YMMV.
Bottom line; Everyone needs to do whatever they are comfortable with.
Click to expand...

Mel, when I bought my -7 it came with a wood prop which made me think of what would happen if I lost my engine due to a stupid pilot mistake like running out fuel. In cruise flight at high speeds I would simply switch tanks with the prop turning (hopefully the other tank has fuel :rolleyes: ), but seriously, if for some reason the same thing happens in the pattern and I'm within flap speed the wood prop does not have enough inertia to continue spinning, requiring a quick switch of the tank and a restart with the starter. I even tested it at altitude and once the wood prop stops spinning at low speeds it requires a drastic dive to over 120knots to get it to start the engine on its own . . . obviously not possible at pattern altitude. I know most people don't have wood props but it is something to think about.
 
Bill_H said:
You might consider using a keyed switch for the starter rather than a push button for safety reasons. Or in the fuel circuit or something. The RV12 has 2 switches for the dual ignitions and a keyed starter.
Click to expand...

Huh? How is a keyed switch "safer" than a push button for the starter?

vic syracuse said:
Here's a trick I use when using toggle switches, especially since Rotax recommends not using the standard key switches. I wire the 12 volts to the starter switch through the Strobe light switch. That way the strobes are on for starting and it takes both the master switch and the strobes on for the starter to be hot. Adds a little level of security and safety.
Click to expand...

Again, huh? How does wiring a starter thru the strobes add security and safety? All I see from that scenario is annoyance from other pilots on the ground being blinded by your strobes.

I've had 2 mag toggle switches and a push button starter on my RV-8 for 1100+ hrs, three stone simple circuits with no safety issues... what am I missing? I don't mean to stir the pot, but these two posts make absolutely no sense to me unless it's some funky RV-12/Rotax thing. BTW, the original poster looks like he has an RV-8A.
 
I guess the implication is that it is easier to accidentally engage a push button than a key switch. One could always use a momentary toggle with a cover.
 
jbDC9 said:
Huh? How is a keyed switch "safer" than a push button for the starter?



Again, huh? How does wiring a starter thru the strobes add security and safety? All I see from that scenario is annoyance from other pilots on the ground being blinded by your strobes.

I've had 2 mag toggle switches and a push button starter on my RV-8 for 1100+ hrs, three stone simple circuits with no safety issues... what am I missing? I don't mean to stir the pot, but these two posts make absolutely no sense to me unless it's some funky RV-12/Rotax thing. BTW, the original poster looks like he has an RV-8A.
Click to expand...


This is why I even hesitate to try to help any more on this site. There always seems to be a smart answer. All you see is annoyance to other pilots from being blinded by your strobes??? Give me a break. Most checklists actually recommend that the anti-collision lights be on for safety prior to starting. On busy General Aviation ramps with a mix of corporate and GA traffic where there are lots of loading/unloading of passengers and ramp crew around, I find it imperative to get the strobes on, look around and yell very loudly. Yes it is a safety factor. Strobes on do tend to get everyone' attention. If it's at night I pay attention and delay a start so as to not inconvenience someone, and I will in fact turn the strobes off after start and leave the Nav lights on if it is distracting.

As for security, many years ago I had a friend who lost his homebuilt on a ramp at a fly in due to a drunk bystander getting in and starting it up and almost killing people before the aircraft came to a stop. So it's always been on my mind and I try to add a second level of security to the START function.

As for the engines windmilling, it's true for our typical fixed pitch and even constant speed propellers without a feathering function. But not so with the Rotax. They WILL come to a complete stop in flight if there is fuel starvation, and do require starter engagement to get going again. I test this function on every Rotax-equipped airplane I test fly.
 
start lockout

I hadn't thought about a drunk but I am concerned about kids. They will flip every switch and push every button. I put a SPST switch behind the panel which is in series with the start button. It is easy to reach and only I know where it is.
 
But not on the control stick!

Even though I like the starter push button arrangement, I have seen a few cases where the starter button is located on the control stick. In my opinion, this is a very bad idea. I think it is much better for the button to be located out of the usual flow of motions so it takes a deliberate action to engage it. On my panel it is located at the upper left corner away from any other switches. I also have a 'starter light' to indicate a stuck starter contactor.
 
A starter button is going on the stick on my Rocket so that I can keep the stick fully back while simultaneously manipulating the throttle/mixture/boost pump during a hot start. On an A model, this is not such a big deal, but a high powered, nose heavy tail dragger requires you to be on your toes, so to speak.

Agreed that the button should not be "casually" accessed, but I plan on installing an arming switch on the panel along with an associated warning light. This will require two separate acts to engage the starter (three, if the switch is guarded). It adds complication, but should ease the cockpit gymnastics.
 
Kahuna said:
Slicks use P-lead and switch to ground.
Starter relay uses +12 to switch relay contactor.

So on each of your toggles, one side of the switch to ground, the other side of the switch to the P-lead. Confirm with ohm meter that each switch is switching to ground with the p-lead OFF the mag. When grounded, the mag will not fire. You will get continuity through the mag on the P-lead which is why you test it with it off the mag.

On starter switch, one side of switch hot +12 to your bus fused. The other side of the switch to the starter relay +12 input to engage coil for starter relay.
Click to expand...

The current setup has what appears to be a shielded wire, with the center conductor wired to the P-lead, and the shield conductor wired to the magneto GND screw. On the key switch side, both conductors are wired to tabs on the switch. I am still a bit unclear about the wiring, so bear with me...

To wire the mag switch, I need to connect one side of the switch to the P-lead post, and the other side to the airframe ground? To enable the mag, the circuit should be open, i.e. the switch is in the off position (not connecting to ground,) correct? To disable the mag, the switch is closed ("on" position,) connecting the P-lead to airframe ground, correct?

What is the function of the shield conductor in my current setup? Is it actually shielding potential RF noise? Could / should I use the shield conductor as the ground side of the switch, or should I extend the shield conductor to the FOT behind the panel?

As for the starter switch, I was going to use a button on the stick, but since I'm installing electric roll trim, I'll need that button for another function. The starter interlocking will be handled by VP-X.

Thanks for everyone's input, BTW!
 
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Start switch

I converted my -6 from a push button start switch to a traditional key start. I didn't want that prop spinning because a child or passenger or whomever decided to push the button or lean on it or whatever. My -3 had the push button also and I leaned on it accidentally once working in that cramped cockpit. Thankfully the visitors that day had already left.
Cj

vic syracuse said:
This is why I even hesitate to try to help any more on this site. There always seems to be a smart answer. All you see is annoyance to other pilots from being blinded by your strobes??? Give me a break. Most checklists actually recommend that the anti-collision lights be on for safety prior to starting. On busy General Aviation ramps with a mix of corporate and GA traffic where there are lots of loading/unloading of passengers and ramp crew around, I find it imperative to get the strobes on, look around and yell very loudly. Yes it is a safety factor. Strobes on do tend to get everyone' attention. If it's at night I pay attention and delay a start so as to not inconvenience someone, and I will in fact turn the strobes off after start and leave the Nav lights on if it is distracting.

As for security, many years ago I had a friend who lost his homebuilt on a ramp at a fly in due to a drunk bystander getting in and starting it up and almost killing people before the aircraft came to a stop. So it's always been on my mind and I try to add a second level of security to the START function.

As for the engines windmilling, it's true for our typical fixed pitch and even constant speed propellers without a feathering function. But not so with the Rotax. They WILL come to a complete stop in flight if there is fuel starvation, and do require starter engagement to get going again. I test this function on every Rotax-equipped airplane I test fly.
Click to expand...
 
maus92 said:
To wire the mag switch, I need to connect one side of the switch to the P-lead post, and the other side to the airframe ground? To enable the mag, the circuit should be open, i.e. the switch is in the off position (not connecting to ground,) correct? To disable the mag, the switch is closed ("on" position,) connecting the P-lead to airframe ground, correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, the switch off/open is the mag enabled position.

While using a local airframe ground will work, but the usual way is to ground back to the mag with the shield, as you mention below.

maus92 said:
What is the function of the shield conductor in my current setup? Is it actually shielding potential RF noise? Could / should I use the shield conductor as the ground side of the switch, or should I extend the shield conductor to the FOT behind the panel?
Click to expand...

I would not attach the shield to the FOT (forest of tabs)
 
Mike S said:
Yes, the switch off/open is the mag enabled position.

While using a local airframe ground will work, but the usual way is to ground back to the mag with the shield, as you mention below.



I would not attach the shield to the FOT (forest of tabs)
Click to expand...


Thank you! I think I've got it!

C.
 
vic syracuse said:
This is why I even hesitate to try to help any more on this site. There always seems to be a smart answer.
Click to expand...

Seriously, I didn't mean to sound like a smart-a$$, but was just trying to wrap my head around how keyed start switches and starter thru the strobes add safety and security. Both of the posts I quoted mentioned those two items for safety and security, but then there was no explanation or rationale behind it to explain how, in your opinion, these things enhance safety and security.

vic syracuse said:
All you see is annoyance to other pilots from being blinded by your strobes???
Click to expand...

Well... yes. In my opinion, another ships bright white wingtip strobes on a busy ramp are blinding, annoying, affects my vision, less safe. In your opinion, it's safer for people on the ramp. Everyone is allowed their opinion, so agree to disagree I guess.

I know when you build an airplane you can wire it however you like and that's part of the beauty of experimental aviation, but, I gotta say that I've never flown anything that had the starter wired through the strobes. If I bought a plane wired like that, it'd be the first thing on my list to undo. I'm thinking if you want strobes on for start, turn on the strobes separately. Again, just my opinion. As far as security for drunks and kids, I close the canopy to keep people out, or if I let kids in the seat, I watch them closely.

Fair enough?
 
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"...I converted my -6 from a push button start switch to a traditional key start. I didn't want that prop spinning because a child or passenger or whomever decided to push the button or lean on it or whatever..."

I thought of that, but it does take two bad actions to get the prop to spin, Master On and Press Starter button.

I think a modern kid would just as likely turn a key switch as press a button...:)
 
az_gila said:
"...I converted my -6 from a push button start switch to a traditional key start. I didn't want that prop spinning because a child or passenger or whomever decided to push the button or lean on it or whatever..."

I thought of that, but it does take two bad actions to get the prop to spin, Master On and Press Starter button.

I think a modern kid would just as likely turn a key switch as press a button...:)
Click to expand...

Being a smart a$$ here..... I just have to say that my last certified A/C, a Warrior did come with a removable key in the starter switch.

I hate key switches..... they are too complicated for what have to do. And as they wear out, they can become dangerous and fail in the HOT position.

If you are going to display your plane where the switches might get fiddled with, then make a lockable cover to protect important switches.
 
Switch

General opinion from other sources agrees with what I have always believed: rotating beacon, if installed, on for engine start. Strobe lights on when cleared for takeoff, off when clearing runway after landing.
If you operate stobe lights, especially at night, for start and taxi, be prepared for a LOT of flak from those who know better.
Regarding mag grounding, I have not seen mention that if you have one impulse and one non impulse mag, the non impulse MUST be off for start. This happens automatically with properly wired key switch. With toggles if you forget this you may very well trash your starter.

Mag wire shielding has been discussed many times on this forum. Only the mag end of shielding should be grounded, the switch end should be open.
 
jrs14855 said:
Regarding mag grounding, I have not seen mention that if you have one impulse and one non impulse mag, the non impulse MUST be off for start. This happens automatically with properly wired key switch. With toggles if you forget this you may very well trash your starter.
Click to expand...

I used DPDT switches. Power cannot be applied to the starter unless 1) The Master is ON, 2) The left mag is ON, 3) The right mag is OFF 4) The button is pushed on the stick. Additionally, with the left mag in the middle position and the right mag off, both are still grounded but you can engage the starter (for the rare occasions you may wish to do this).

This thread is as amusing as the old "ALL IN THE FAMILY" episode where Meathead and Archie are arguing about the proper procedure for putting on socks and shoes. One advocated a sock and a shoe, a sock and a shoe, and the other advocated sock, sock, shoe, shoe... all based on various scenarios with a house fire thrown in and how prepared you would be under various circumstances.

The bottom line is there are several ways to accomplish the appropriate level of functionality and safety. Do what you like, just don't do anything stupid.

Don
 
jrs14855 said:
General opinion from other sources agrees with what I have always believed: rotating beacon, if installed, on for engine start. Strobe lights on when cleared for takeoff, off when clearing runway after landing.
If you operate stobe lights, especially at night, for start and taxi, be prepared for a LOT of flak from those who know better.

Regarding mag grounding, I have not seen mention that if you have one impulse and one non impulse mag, the non impulse MUST be off for start. This happens automatically with properly wired key switch. With toggles if you forget this you may very well trash your starter.


Mag wire shielding has been discussed many times on this forum. Only the mag end of shielding should be grounded, the switch end should be open.
Click to expand...

It was already covered here...

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=937203&postcount=15
 
Toggle Switches & Strobe Lights

As others state there are lots of ways to switch the mags on or off. I'm going with individual toggles for the impulse mag and EI and a guarded toggle to enable/disable a panel mounted push button starter switch. If I feel the need for more protection I might add a hidden switch in the power feed to starter solenoid.
I respectfully have to disagree with turning the strobes on for startup or any other time before taking the runway. The aircraft checklists that call for anti-collision lights on before start are likely referring to the red rotating/flashing beacon when aircraft still had those, not the strobe lights.

Don Broussard

RV 9 Rebuild in Progress
 
jrs14855 said:
General opinion from other sources agrees with what I have always believed: rotating beacon, if installed, on for engine start. Strobe lights on when cleared for takeoff, off when clearing runway after landing.
If you operate stobe lights, especially at night, for start and taxi, be prepared for a LOT of flak from those who know better.
Click to expand...

I think this is what the AIM recommends, as well, but I am too tired to look it up at this particular moment. If I am wrong about that, I am sure I will be notified. :rolleyes:
 
az_gila said:
I think a modern kid would just as likely turn a key switch as press a button...:)
Click to expand...

Not really possible since the key is in MY pocket, not in the switch, when I'm not in the cockpit (and yes, it's on my shutdown checklist..."Keyswitch OFF and Key OUT").

Just to throw another combination into the mix...I have toggle switches for L Mag, R Mag, and Battery Master, a keyswitch interlock which must be ON in order for the pushbutton START switch to operate.
 
Last Checklist

before crossing the runway hold line I use an old familiar 3-letter abbreviation:

STP

Strobes, Transponder, Pump

Been working for me for more years than I'd care to admit.
 
Re: strobes vs beacons (the red, "rotating" kind)...

Both are "anti-collision" lights. You need at least one kind, and if you only have one, it needs to be on when during all operations unless it would affect safety. If you have both, one of the two should be on.

I think many of us have *only* strobes, no red flashing/rotating beacon, so turn them on prior to engine start.

Good point about night ops, though...might be safer to use the nav lights and taxi/landing lights only while on the ramp. Something to think about...
 
Since this thread has drifted to starting procedures and safety, I'll add my gripe: pilots that yell "Clear!" then turn the prop a fraction of a second later. Geez, wait a few seconds for people to notice.

As for lights on before starting, that helps at night but during the day not so much. Be careful, pilots and pedestrians.
 
RV7A Flyer said:
Re: strobes vs beacons (the red, "rotating" kind)...

Both are "anti-collision" lights. You need at least one kind, and if you only have one, it needs to be on when during all operations unless it would affect safety. If you have both, one of the two should be on.

I think many of us have *only* strobes, no red flashing/rotating beacon, so turn them on prior to engine start.

Good point about night ops, though...might be safer to use the nav lights and taxi/landing lights only while on the ramp. Something to think about...
Click to expand...

FAR 91.209(b) is the reference.
 
I have wired up my plane as Don above describes it. I have a keyed master switch, down between my knees, close to the battery, plus another switch on the panel, clearly labelled. Nobody can energise anything if I remove the key from the master switch. Starting with the right mag on cannot be done, but as soon as the engine fires I flick the right mag on, that stops the starter and gives me a running engine. The downside of this is that if I need to use the starter in flight, I must turn the right mag off. If there is a failure of the left mag and the engine stops in flight, starting with the right mag on will not happen. In that case my only chance of a restart is to operate the starter and flick right mag on. When doing the wiring design I agonised over this and eventually came to the conclusion that the probability of losing the engine was too low to worry about.
 
Buggsy2 said:
Since this thread has drifted to starting procedures and safety, I'll add my gripe: pilots that yell "Clear!" then turn the prop a fraction of a second later. Geez, wait a few seconds for people to notice.
Click to expand...

A "proposecond" is defined as, "the barely measurable time between murmuring "clear prop" and cranking the starter."

As for lights on before starting, that helps at night but during the day not so much. Be careful, pilots and pedestrians.
Click to expand...

For night starts, I've been taught to turn position lights on, strobes off, two one-second pulses of the landing lights, "clear prop," crank. Then don't use strobes or landing lights on the ground until just before taking the runway, lest you ruin your or someone else's night vision.

During the day it's a bit academic because none of the lights will draw attention from anyone who isn't looking straight at them already. Head on a swivel, always be prepared to yank the red knob if you see a kid or a dog running out.

- mark
 
John Bixby - when I mentioned the use of a keyed starter for safety reasons rather than a push button starter, I was meaning in the sense of an unfamiliar or unauthorized person pushing the start button. Think kids at air shows or fly-ins. Not leaving the key in the ignition provides the safety.

There are other things that you can do. In a car I owned before alarm systems were common or inexpensive, I put a switch under the drivers seat. It was the push button type - push (click), switch opens and stays open. Push (click) again and the switch closes and stays closed. It was wired into the power to the fuel pump. Park the car, reach under the seat (through a tiny slit in the carpet) and push the button. Car can't be easily hot wired without knowing about that! Push again when you get back in.
 
Buggsy2 said:
Since this thread has drifted to starting procedures and safety, I'll add my gripe: pilots that yell "Clear!" then turn the prop a fraction of a second later. Geez, wait a few seconds for people to notice.

As for lights on before starting, that helps at night but during the day not so much. Be careful, pilots and pedestrians.
Click to expand...

Gripe #2: pilots who yell "clear" while wearing a headset. If someone yells back "There's a dog under the plane (or whatever)". they cannot hear them.
#2b: Pilots who yell "clear" with their headset on, and the master and intercom on too. Blasts away in the ears of the passengers.
 
I've recently replaced a keyed mag/start switch with guarded toggles. The mag switches use "space shuttle" guards from Perihelion Designs. I can secure these toggles in the "OFF" position by inserting a cable lock through the switch guards.

The starter is covered by a red switch cover guard. It can either be safety wired closed to prevent access to the switch, or I can disable the starter circuit by locking out the starter circuit breaker. This is easy to do with either a purpose-designed CB collar or with an appropriately-sized zip tie.

Having flown with this same arrangement in my other airplane now for eight years I can say that I'm comfortable with having kids in the airplane when the starter lockout is applied.

Each of us will have our own opinion on the topic. It's good they're expressed here so we can learn from insights shared by others.
 
Nobody said anything about using toggel switches with a positive detent. Be sure what ever switch you pick has a positive detent so your mags can not be inadvertently switched off during flight. Mine you have to pull the toggle switch over the detent to turn on/off. If you bump the switch accidentally during flight it won't open your mag.
 
Secret cutoff switch

I was thinking of wiring a guarded switch, in-line with the starter switch, and locate it inside my locked forward baggage compartment. It would almost always be "On", for normal ops as I intend to keep the plane in a hangar, but if I ever left it outside where someone could reach my starter button, I'd use it to disable the starter.
Thoughts?
 
AAflyer said:
I was thinking of wiring a guarded switch, in-line with the starter switch, and locate it inside my locked forward baggage compartment. It would almost always be "On", for normal ops as I intend to keep the plane in a hangar, but if I ever left it outside where someone could reach my starter button, I'd use it to disable the starter.
Thoughts?
Click to expand...

In other words, your Starter button is essentially always "hot". Hmmm...
 
RV7A Flyer said:
In other words, your Starter button is essentially always "hot". Hmmm...
Click to expand...

This brings up a good point; depending on how they are wired. Most starter switches (button or key) are hot or not at the same time if wired properly (that being downstream of the master relay, preferably on th main buss)...so neither type should be activated without the master "on" first.

I've built RV's both ways, and each has their pro's / con's....so I won't take sides other than to say you should take into account how they are wired in order to keep them safe (and secure). A "vanity switch" in line does help.

Just my 2 cents as usual!

Cheers,
Stein
 
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