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Dimple mistake on Horiz Stab skin

plbarrett2004

Active Member
Doing my first dimpling on the HS 801 Skin and while I though I had the skin on the dimple... it slipped. :eek: The "new" dimple is right next to the hole. This hole is in the center on the rear edge for attaching to the rear spar. I've included some pictures. Unfortunately, I cannot simply stop drill and continue.. neither a 3/32" or a 1/8" rivet will completely cover it. I don't feel that one bad dimple requires a new skin, but I'm not sure how to best implement a fix.

Based on the other threads I've read, this is what I'm currently thinking to do. I'm hoping the experts on here can steer me in the right direction...
  1. Stop drill the crack.
  2. Drill the original hole to 1/8"
  3. Dimple with 1/8" die.
  4. Rivet with 1/8" rivet??
  5. Add some type of filler????

I've seen alternate solutions such as adding another rivet next to the orginal hole, or leaving the rivet out entirely. I think any rivet has more strength than no rivet, so I don't like the latter.

img_2551.jpg

img_2552.jpg


Here is a photo with a standard 3/32" rivet in the original hole.
img_2554.jpg
 
Personally I would replace the skin. It does not sound like you have done any riveting yet, so now would be the time. You will always think about if you don't . I can't tell you how many pieces I re ordered!
 
I think you are on the right track. I wouldn't replace the skin. If its on the top in a visible place, I'd use some filler before painting. If its on the bottom or otherwise hidden (under a fairing), I'd do what you mentioned and keep an eye on it for the first few condition inspections.

I think this is early enough in the build that it will determine how you handle future oops. If you are building a show plane, then replacing the skin may win. Otherwise, make it so it won't get worse or cause future problems and move on.
 
I think we have all done this....ok I did, wait till you do the thin rudder skin!
 
Kinda makes you feel like a dork doesn't it. You just joined the club. I deburred mine and plan to use filler.
 
Use epoxy for the filler. If there is any movement - and I don't think there will be, but epoxy is the strongest material to use. Mix some balloons or filler in the epoxy and you will be fine.

* JB Weld is not the filler I would ever use.
 
Use epoxy for the filler. If there is any movement - and I don't think there will be, but epoxy is the strongest material to use. Mix some balloons or filler in the epoxy and you will be fine.

* JB Weld is not the filler I would ever use.

Any recommended fillers / epoxies?
 
I have used West Systems epoxy for years. I built and restored boats and actually enjoy epoxy and glass. I am sure the other epoxy's the suppliers have are good too, I just don't have experience with them.

For a small repair like the one in the picture, I would sand the area with 150, clean with lacquer thinner, put tape on the backside, mix a bit of epoxy and micro-balloons and use a hotel credit card to force the epoxy in. Leave it high. Then do the other side, sand to smooth with up to 400. Keep the area as small as you can. The micro-balloons are VERY hard and not easy to sand without sanding the aluminum too much. It will look great once it is painted.
 
I have about a dozen different recipes for epoxy mixes for laminating, filling, bonding, pinhole filling, and varnishing. But for this, I'd just break out the JB Weld.

One thing I would not use is an epoxy and microballoons. This application probably doesn't need much strength, but I'd want to use a mix that has a handful more than none.

Thanks, Bob K.
 
I did that once too, but not quite as bad as yours. I drilled my out and used an Oops rivet that helped in my case since I wasn't quite as far off as you were. It might still help your situation a little though.

Now I'm much more careful about holding the skin down with one hand before I whack it.
 
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