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Installing a heated pitot in a built aircraft

ALagonia

Well Known Member
Can anybody give me an idea of what it will take to install a heated pitot in an RV9 that is finished and flying? My airplane currently has the Vans small aluminum tubing for a pitot. I know about the circuit breaker.
Thanks
 
Can anybody give me an idea of what it will take to install a heated pitot in an RV9 that is finished and flying? My airplane currently has the Vans small aluminum tubing for a pitot. I know about the circuit breaker.
Thanks

No big deal.

The installation depends what's at the other end and what pitot you purchase.

The pitot attaches to the same tube that your current one does. Then depending on the brand, you'll need to run some power to it. Some brands have controllers, some don't. Some also include an AOA feature. If you aren't using this to feed AOA, then make sure that line gets capped. It will drive the person doing the pitot/static cert crazy otherwise. You'll have to cut a hole for the pitot mount. Most of the experimental ones use the Gretz mount or something similar. Many of the EFIS vendors will sell a pitot that may have unique features that are supported on their EFIS.

You've got an AFS 4500, correct? I would recommend the Dynon heated pitot.
 
Pitot tube

There is an easier way to mount the tube - install it in the inspection plate, with care you can also add the ‘heater unit’ on the same panel. This makes it easier to service if needed eg remove blockages.;)
I have done many this way & allows painting & temporary storage & transportation of the wings without the fear of damaging a protruding mount getting in the way.
 
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There is an easier way to mount the tube - install it in the inspection plate, with care you can also add the ?heater unit? on the same panel. This makes it easier to service if needed eg remove blockages.;)
I have done many this way & allows painting & temporary storage & transportation of the wings without the fear of damaging a protruding mount getting in the way.
Very interesting alternative. Thank you
 
question

There is an easier way to mount the tube - install it in the inspection plate, with care you can also add the ?heater unit? on the same panel. This makes it easier to service if needed eg remove blockages.;)
I have done many this way & allows painting & temporary storage & transportation of the wings without the fear of damaging a protruding mount getting in the way.

I am also going to have to do this to finished wings as well. When you do that on the inspection plate did you just plug the old hole? If so what did you use?
 
I am not sure if installing the pitot tube in the inspection plate would be great idea. For one thing, each time you remove the inspection plate to inspect things, you will need to disconnect and reconnect all the plumbing (both electrical and pitot tube). But the other issue is that there are a bit of force on the pitot tube/mast and the inspection plate is held by #8 screw which I believe is most common size for cracks to develop if/when dimpled or not adequate edge distance is there. This makes it even worse if you are going to use a doubler since it will make it stiffer .

Lastly, you will need to consider if this will bring the pitot tube into the prop wash. I don?t think it will as there is an inspection plate very close to the original location of the pitot, but just keep that in mind as you are making changes.

Just my 2 cents
 
What about getting power to the pitot? I know my fuel tank is in the way and the conduit is stuffed with strobe wires, AOA and Pitot tubes. I would love to change my unheated for heated.
 
I am looking at adding a heated as well, friend of mine has done this on the inspection plate; very certain he split the plate so the pitot tube doesn?t need to come out during inspection plate removal.
 
There is an easier way to mount the tube - install it in the inspection plate, with care you can also add the ‘heater unit’ on the same panel. This makes it easier to service if needed eg remove blockages.;)
I have done many this way & allows painting & temporary storage & transportation of the wings without the fear of damaging a protruding mount getting in the way.

I would question whether the inspection plate would be strong enough to support the pitot over the long haul. Most Pitot masts that I have seen tie into the rivet flange on the spar for the bulk of their lateral support, in addition to using the skin in close proximity to a web for additional support and rigidity. There is enough force involved here that one version of mast was breaking welds until they beefed it up. Can't see how a small unsopported sheet of .032 is going to get it done unless some sort of doubler is used that is carried to the spar based screws. However, as mentioned above, the inspection plates don't have proper edge distance for their holes. No issue for the designed purpose, but a big problem when you hang a 1/4 - 1/2 pound implement on it with a 6" leverage arm.

It's not that hard to add a pitot mast in the proper location, even laying on your back for an installed wing.

Larry
 
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Pitot tube mount

Maybe this will help alleviate some doubts- I have 2500hrs with the pitot on the inspection panel without any issues & have used the same method on 35 RV?s with the same result.
As with anything involved with EAB aircraft, you make your own choices - I only offered a proven alternative :)
 
I am not sure if installing the pitot tube in the inspection plate would be great idea. For one thing, each time you remove the inspection plate to inspect things, you will need to disconnect and reconnect all the plumbing (both electrical and pitot tube). But the other issue is that there are a bit of force on the pitot tube/mast and the inspection plate is held by #8 screw which I believe is most common size for cracks to develop if/when dimpled or not adequate edge distance is there. This makes it even worse if you are going to use a doubler since it will make it stiffer .

Lastly, you will need to consider if this will bring the pitot tube into the prop wash. I don?t think it will as there is an inspection plate very close to the original location of the pitot, but just keep that in mind as you are making changes.

Just my 2 cents

Prop wash is not an issue - the inspection panel is further out than the standard ? hole in the wing? setup.
 
Can anybody give me an idea of what it will take to install a heated pitot in an RV9 that is finished and flying? My airplane currently has the Vans small aluminum tubing for a pitot. I know about the circuit breaker. Thanks

Why do you want a heated pitot tube, just asking. Are you going IFR. You only get pitot ice in viable moisture (clouds, freezing rain) when the temperatures are below 0C. A heated pitot will add drag, weight, electrical load. If you don't need it, don't install it. Save the money and time and go fly... :)
 
Why do you want a heated pitot tube, just asking. Are you going IFR. You only get pitot ice in viable moisture (clouds, freezing rain) when the temperatures are below 0C. A heated pitot will add drag, weight, electrical load. If you don't need it, don't install it. Save the money and time and go fly... :)
I am an instrument rated pilot with years of instrument flying under my belt. I?m new to RV?s and love my 9. I know how I use an airplane and while this is my first single engine airplane in almost 40 years and no longer look to fly with 200 and 1/2 for my airplane to be functional for me I want a heated pitot for those times I will climb or descend through visible moisture in low temps. Last week I flew to Houston, was at 10,500? and the temp was 45F. Made me think real hard why I want a heated pitot. We equip them the way we want them.
 
+1 for mounting on the inspection plate. I switched both the Rocket and the -8 to this configuration with no issues.
 
Frosted over again today

Why do you want a heated pitot tube, just asking. Are you going IFR. You only get pitot ice in viable moisture (clouds, freezing rain) when the temperatures are below 0C. A heated pitot will add drag, weight, electrical load. If you don't need it, don't install it. Save the money and time and go fly... :)

Sedona AZ to Monroe LA today in my -10. 30+ knots of tailwind at 17,000’. In a couple areas, some light precipitation that did not adhere to the airframe zeroed out my airspeed indicator rendering the autopilot and all range planning on my G3 useless. This is the third time this year I have had this issue.

I have a heated pitot with wiring, breaker, and switch in a box ready to install in my hangar. It will be installed ASAP.

Garmin non heated pitot with AOA available cheap.
 
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-1 for the inspection cover mounting

It's not that tough to put the hole in the wing skin. Seems to me, that mounting the pitot to the inspection cover, you will interfere with being able to see inside of the wing (one purpose for the cover). You could leave it hanging there and risk creating a leak or disconnect the air line and heater wire so you can set the cover aside. That would mandate a static system check.
Yeah, you could do it but IMHO the potential for future problems is less if you don't.
 
Does anybody know if inspection plates are the same size on all RVs? And are they in a consistent location relative to the leading edge? I am about to have one installed in a flying 12 and am considering using the inspection plate. It's small but big enough to accommodate a Gretz mast, and is quite rigid, unlike the skin which is only 0.020. It would need quite a bit of beefing up which would be a challenge due to the limited access.

Jack
 
We equip them the way we want them.

Yes we do.

I retrofitted a heated pitot (w/AOA) in my constructed 7 wing. I was a little tricky but was able to get the doubler installed and riveted to the rib. That part is doable. The wiring can follow the landing light paths. As noted, the AOA tubing routing could be the challenge, but the Dynon tubing is pretty small. There are several ways to get that done, and once that far, another post will get a dozen ways to go.
 
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