New Tailwheel Spring Info

In putting on new compression tailwheel springs I have noticed a potential
problem. With the tailwheel off ground looking from rear forward the tail wheel and rudder don't line up when equal length tail springs are used.Holding the rudder centered the left spring is acting like it is too
short and the right spring too loose holding the tailwheel in a left turn.
(Maybe this is why I need so much right rudder on take-off. Both spring
chains are equal length of twelve links.Should I add a link or two to left
and remove from right? Is this a common problem? Am I missing some thing
altogether.

Thanks
Jim Miller

The only thing I can imagine is the rudder horn was not installed square to the center line of the rudder or the chain holes in the horn where not drilled equally.
It has been too long since I built the 3 rudder to remember if it is even possible to build the horn out of square unless the spar was also canted. Really hard to imagine.

I guess it is also possible that the tail spring is not on center line with the fuselage. That would not be good, but again, hard to imagine that happening too, and now that I think about it, it would pull the rudder along with it, so that is not it.

Have you actually measured the chains and springs in assembly or are you just counting links?

My chains on the 6 or so loose it hardly matters in my case, and yes, I like them that way....

I found my problem to be springs slightly different length. I had three
sets that came with the airplane and they are not all same. I finally used
a new set I had for my Cub project. They are SS from aircraft spruce and
line up correctly with the same 12 link chains. I did notice that 13 links
are a little too long but 12 links require a slight tension on the springs.
I like the way it handles this way but was wondering if no slack is OK.
I have modded my hook-up with straps of 4130 1/2 inch wide that
acts as a carry thru and takes the wear factor off the alum rudder horn.
Eye bolts are on both the rudder horn and tailwheel steering horn also.

JM

No slack is ok Jim. Some people prefer it that way. However, it will make things a little more sensitive specifically on roll out. There is some thought that new tail wheel pilots should not have taught chains as the tendency to over control gets exagerated.

Has anyone tried using 1/8" SS cable and turnbuckles on the tailwheel
spring hook-up? I am looking into doing this to decrease chance of one side
breaking and to make them adjustable. Also I noticed the chain I have is
three different link dimensions. All look the same but one is definitely
stronger due to increased thickness of the links and the links are a little
wider. Where is a good place to buy some heavy duty tailwheel chain?

Thanks
JM

I have the Tail Lynx product. It uses a ss cable and a really nicely machined spring/tang assembly. They are not adjustable.
I mounted them backwards, spring on the control arm side, to get clear of the rudder bottom. The manufacturer warns against this as the weight of the spring may break off the tang or the arm due to it whipping around if bounced. I have not had any problems with over 500 hours on it, but the manufacturer hates the fact I did this and every time he see's me out and about he tells me so.
The point being, be carefull how much weight you put on the back side of the cable. It will whip up and down as the tail wheel bounces and could produce quite a bit of force on the tail wheel control arm.

A tail wheel cable failure "should" be a non-event. Stearable tailwheels are certainly better than free stearing but the rudder is amazingly effective and that along with prudent use of brakes "should" keep you on the runway. I have lost a cable on another airplane and didn't even know it until I got back to the hangar.