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Tire Damage

Champ

Well Known Member
Pulled my wheel pants to check brakes and tire pressures before an extended cross country and found this gouge and crack in the right main. The tire is a Vans supplied Air Hawk 5.00x5 that came with the kit about 17 years ago. Its got 140 hours and approximately 360 landings on it. All on paved runways. I run them at 36 psi.

Right%20Main%20Crack-M.jpg


1. I'm inclined to replace it before the next flight. What say you?
2. Is it best to replace both tires at the same time?
3. I've had zero problems with leakage so would it work to reuse the tubes?
 
If the tear is outward of the corded portion of the tire, it should be fine. The tire has a key thickness (includes the nylon or steel cording embedded within it) that it needs to support air pressure and vehicle weight. There is then a thick area on the outward surface that is designed to wear away without compromising strength.

From the pic it looks like you are outboard of the core area. However, it is hard to tell from a pic. If you can't see any cording, you are probably ok. I would definately replace a 17 year old tube. Rubber is an age limited item.

Larry
 
Last edited:
17 years!
You have got to be kidding!
I don?t think they owe you anything and should be replaced based on their age!
Dave
 
Tires

The cost of a tire is not worth the hassle of repairing the wheel pant if it throws a piece of tread. I have a self imposed life limit of 10 years on rubber parts. I would change all tires and tubes that are old.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
A&P, IA, ATP
 
Thanks everyone. New tires and tubes are on their way from ACS. I'm staying with Air Hawks and leakguard tubes since it seems the first set of these have gone above and beyond the call of duty.
 
Looks to me like those should have lasted longer. I?d be looking for warranty reparations. **** Chinese junk.
 
tire info from the big guys

Any sidewall damage is not acceptable. Replace the tire.

I once downloaded the hundred-odd page tire guide from Michelin, and Goodyear IIRC, they outline very specific parameters on 'acceptable' tire damage which is good reading, whether you apply it or not. Half the guide is about 'big boy' tires, but everything that applies to cord, tread, tubes etc. is good info.
give it a read some winter day!
 
36 lbs ?

Dennis I can?t believe no one mentioned you should be running a lot more than 36 lbs air pressure in your 8
I?m running 42-45 in my six but there are a number of posts here on this subject
 
Thanks everyone. New tires and tubes are on their way from ACS. I'm staying with Air Hawks and leakguard tubes since it seems the first set of these have gone above and beyond the call of duty.

I looked at all the tire brands and like you have stayed with Air Hawks/leakguard tubes because the wear has been great and even. I use 45-50# for tire pressure though.
 
Shucks, for years I ran 24 in the nosewheel, 28 in the mains - per the now-retired head honcho builder-assist guy at the mothership (forget his name now) until I saw advice here to go much higher to avoid flats.
 
tire pressure

24 psi in the nose. 28 in the mains. worked for me 23 years on my rv-6a.
however, i seldom used gravel or dirt runways.
 
24 psi in the nose. 28 in the mains. worked for me 23 years on my rv-6a.
however, i seldom used gravel or dirt runways.

I did that too for the first couple hundred hours - and had 2 nose wheel flats and one main flat. After switching tires to Desser retreads and running pressure up to about 35, haven't had another flat in the next 250 hours. I operate off a mix of gravel and paved runways.
 
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