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Bottom Wire Runs and Bottom Antenna?

RudiGreyling

RudiGreyling

Well Known Member
Guys,

I Unpacked my QB and I see the RV10 has double layered and riveted floor all the way through. The interior floor skins are just temporary fitted on the QB with a pop here and there...

On my RV7 Vans recommends you could run the wires in the tunnel both sides to the rear, and one could mount the Bottom Antenna under removable Seat Pans to get access to them.

The riveted double flooring and heat + Rudder cables + Pushrods in the tunnel makes me wonder if I can repeat the same on the RV10.

What are you guys doing here for rear wire runs and bottom antenna?

Thanks in advance,
Rudi
 
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I pulled three conduits on each side. One was dedicated to a comm antenna underneath each seat. I used a punch to cut the .75" hole for the conduit in the seat rib. My photos aren't the greatest, but you get the idea.


FP21082009A0003A.jpg


Then I brought all three conduits up through the side wall.​

FP20112009A0002L.jpg
 
Exactly! I'm going to pop through that seat rib just like Bob did.

I haven't figured out how to cut that hole yet. I think I'm going to have to drill out the rivets holding the rib, drill the hole, and then re-install. There's just no way to get a unibit and drill 90 degree drill in there.

Phil
 
Phil said:
I haven't figured out how to cut that hole yet. I think I'm going to have to drill out the rivets holding the rib, drill the hole, and then re-install. There's just no way to get a unibit and drill 90 degree drill in there.

Phil
Click to expand...


Here's what I used on the seat ribs. I used a 1/4" bit in an angle drill for starter holes. Harbor Freight had these punches on sale for $9.99 during the summer.

91201.gif

They're $24.99 on the web site now, but still a whole lot less expensive than Greenlee punches. Even if you just use them a couple times.​
 
Looks like I will be making a stop by Harbor Freight on the way home today.

Thanks for spending my money Bob!

Phil
 
rleffler said:
I pulled three conduits on each side. One was dedicated to a comm antenna underneath each seat. I used a punch to cut the .75" hole for the conduit in the seat rib. My photos aren't the greatest, but you get the idea.<SNIP>
Click to expand...

Thanks bob that helps a lot!

But under which seats are you putting the Com Antennas, the front seats that at least you can open up with screws if you have to, or the rear seats and then pop riveting the seat skins in place making access more difficult?

Rudi
 
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RudiGreyling said:
Thanks bob that helps a lot!

But under which seats are you putting the Com Antennas, the front seats that at least you can open up with screws if you have to, or the rear seats and then pop riveting the seat skins in place making access more difficult?
Click to expand...

They are under the rear seats. I know of some folks that installed access panels in the rear seat pan, but I didn't. My thoughts were if I needed to gain access again, it's almost just as easy to drill out the blind rivets.

I'm also putting the transponder antenna in the tunnel near the firewall. These locatations have adequate separation from all three antennas. If I placed the comm antenna under the front seat, I was concerned I wouldn't have adequate distance from the transponder antenna.

I almost put one of the comm antenna on the top, with the thought that is would be better for ground communication. In talking with many of those that are already flying, I didn't hear from anyone having issues on the ground with both comm antennas on the bottom. Plus having all the antenna on the bottom is a cleaner look in my opinion.


bob
 
rleffler said:
Here's what I used on the seat ribs. I used a 1/4" bit in an angle drill for starter holes. Harbor Freight had these punches on sale for $9.99 during the summer.

91201.gif

They're $24.99 on the web site now, but still a whole lot less expensive than Greenlee punches. Even if you just use them a couple times.​
Click to expand...

BTW, don't count on these for anything tough...the ones we had actually broke when trying to punch some holes in the battery box for the gel cell battery. (Whereas the ones that my electrician friend had for punching holes in electrical boxes worked beautifully...you get what you pay for! :) ).
 
Flying Scotsman said:
BTW, don't count on these for anything tough...the ones we had actually broke when trying to punch some holes in the battery box for the gel cell battery. (Whereas the ones that my electrician friend had for punching holes in electrical boxes worked beautifully...you get what you pay for! :) ).
Click to expand...

I'm sure that's true about most of the stuff from Harbor Freight. Mine worked ok for the couple holes in the ribs I needed to cut. I've had problems with other HF purchases, but most of the time, the gamble has paid off.
 
Com Antenna's

For the Com antennas I believe you need an internal doubler. Mount four nut plates in the doubler using the antenna as a template, then pop rivet the doubler in place. The antenna can then be installed, removed and replaced from the exterior of the aircraft without needing to remove the floors or provide an access door.

Pat
 
Bill, Rudi covered the grommet above, for the conduit, Lowes or Home Depot-----standard home wiring stuff.
 
Thanks Mike,

Just saw a thread on Matronics that said the same. I'm at about the same point as Phil and it seems like everthing is do this before that but don't do this until that is done. Makes me ask questions to things that are right in front of my nose. I never really looked too far ahead in the plans and didn't think too far ahead as far as what I was going to install. The reason was I didn't want to get overwhelmed with things I know nothing about. Now I am scrambling trying to come up with a scheme.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
You can also buy threaded couplings for terminating the conduit run, and anti chaff caps for them to protect the wires as they exit the conduit.

Makes mounting these a cinch.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The adapter and bushing shown are 2", just there for an idea of what they look like, you want ones to fit the conduit.
 
Bill,
For more options:
- Everything except conduit can bought from Aircraft Spruce
- Everything except edge grommets can be bought from Van's

Besides edge grommets, rubber grommets, and snap bushings, you can add spring cushion line clamps (aka Adel clamps) to the list. If you follow the practices outlined in AC 43-13, wire (not in conduit) that passes through something like a lightening hole should be held away from the edge with something like an Adel clamp and if the distance from the bundle to the edge of the hole is less than 3/8", then the hole should also have a grommet.
 
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Thanks guys. This gets me started. I'll run enough conduit to handle everything so as I decide what I want I'll have somewhere to run it.

Bill
 
rleffler said:
Here's what I used on the seat ribs. I used a 1/4" bit in an angle drill for starter holes. Harbor Freight had these punches on sale for $9.99 during the summer.

91201.gif

They're $24.99 on the web site now, but still a whole lot less expensive than Greenlee punches. Even if you just use them a couple times.​
Click to expand...


Hey Bob,

I bought this set of knockouts, but it looks like I need a little larger hole than a 1/4" for the pilot. Did you just drill a 1/4" hole and then sandwich the dies between washers on a 1/4" bolt & nut?

Phil
 
MarkStringfellow said:
Rookie question, is there some sort of extra grounding required for com antennas?
Click to expand...

Usually no. e.g., most installations will have the coax shield attached to the outside of a BNC connector; and most antennas will run that side of the connector to a flat metal plate on the antenna underside and/or to the mounting holes. You just need to be sure there’s good electrical contact between these things and the skin. Of course, if you’re mounting on a fiberglass part, that’s different.
 
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