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  #271  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:18 AM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Magnolia KY
Posts: 587
Default Turbo remount

I decided to "flip" the turbo to fit inside the cowling better. I thought I would share this because some people may not know that the center section commonly calls the CHRA (center housing rotating assembly) and the compressor can be rotated, or "Clocked".

In my case, as in a lot of installations, how you configure the mounting of the turbo can include many different positions. All are a trade off. The main issues to work through are the routing of the exhaust pipes and of course compressor outlet pipes so it can connect to the intake. None the least is to also work out the best passage for the oil drain hose.

Here is a picture of the turbo flipped compared to the previous position. You can see from my previous photos this position lowered the turbo by several inches, created a better clearance from the cowling. It does make it a bit more of a challenge to route the exhaust and the drain tube, but overall I like this set up better. You can see that I had to weld up an a short 2" adapter so as the turbo bolt pattern is different that the Honda exhaust flange.

I have not re-positioned the CHRA and Compressor yet. That is to come..



Charlie

Last edited by charosenz : 02-12-2019 at 10:21 AM.
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  #272  
Old 02-20-2019, 10:10 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Magnolia KY
Posts: 587
Default changing the mount plates to move engine up.

One of the advantages of the engine mount and plates of this design is the flexibility to move the engine a minor amount up/down/left/right without having to build a new mount.

Once I rotated the turbo 180 degrees (flipped it) it allowed for a lot of room above the engine overall. With this new room, it just made more sense to move the engine up almost an inch. While that does not sound like much, it will be quite beneficial in my case as it will allow me to do less modification to the cowl, especially around the spinner.

To move the engine up almost an inch, I just need to lower the points on the engine plates down an inch. Here is a pic of the top engine plate being re-drilled with the engine mount bolt holes relocated.



Notice the lower plate with the mounting bushings still in place. The lower plate mod will be next.

Also, one tool that is exceptionally handy at this stage is the use of a Center Point Punch. As you can imagine, it is critical to get the engine mount bolts holes drilled in the precise location. Fortunately you can get a set of center point punches at most hardware stores for a reasonable price. If you venture down the road to do a alternative engine installation they are a "must" have tool. There is just no other way that is easier and more precise to transfer patterns that this.



I will post pics when both the plates are done. One thing I know for sure at this point, I will also have to redesign the idler pulley mount. Not a big deal but something to accomplish. Those weird challenges are almost enjoyable to me.. It is a chance to tackle something new. If that sounds crazy to you, you are probably not one to take on a alternative engine installation project. If it sounds like something you would also enjoy, you are probably "wired" just right. for an alternative engine install....

Charlie.

Last edited by charosenz : 02-20-2019 at 10:32 PM.
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  #273  
Old 02-21-2019, 05:45 PM
Tomcat RV4 Tomcat RV4 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jacksonville,Fl. 32246
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Those BMW donuts are similar to what Mercedes has used for several decades.
Also redrive from air trikes in Canada use those heavy, but strong couplers up
to 180 -200 HP !Tom
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  #274  
Old 02-21-2019, 05:57 PM
Tomcat RV4 Tomcat RV4 is offline
 
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Location: Jacksonville,Fl. 32246
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To all who are interested in this project for learning and not critizeing, I can personally tell you Ross cooling system is fantastic, as are his SDS systems. On another note I cannot understand cutting coupler at all, and as others have found out, a stock flywheel , thou some are heavy, a 4 cylinder anything is very happy with. Lite or no flywheel does not make sense to me at all. Tom
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  #275  
Old 02-21-2019, 07:31 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcat RV4 View Post
Those BMW donuts are similar to what Mercedes has used for several decades. Also redrive from air trikes in Canada use those heavy, but strong couplers up to 180 -200 HP !Tom
Couplers are engineered with specific properties. They have been used successfully in thousands of different applications, and properly applied, they are excellent. However, picking the wrong one is just another fail.

Here there is no property application available. It is impossible to do torsional design without the data, and none is available for the BMW coupler. I wrote the manufacturer and asked.

However entertaining, there is no point in watching it be done wrong again.
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  #276  
Old 02-21-2019, 09:55 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Magnolia KY
Posts: 587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcat RV4 View Post
To all who are interested in this project for learning and not critizeing, I can personally tell you Ross cooling system is fantastic, as are his SDS systems. On another note I cannot understand cutting coupler at all, and as others have found out, a stock flywheel , thou some are heavy, a 4 cylinder anything is very happy with. Lite or no flywheel does not make sense to me at all. Tom
I agree. While this setup does not use a flywheel, I can tell you the rotating mass of the components of the PSRU, coupling, and prop and flexplate all together are very important.

I could not agree more about the cooling scoop/system that Ross shared on his SDSEFI website. It saved me a TON of hours of contemplation and research. I hope I can be on that part of the project real soon. I don't have the desire to make mine as beautiful as his with hundreds of hours of shaping, sanding, a wood/fiberglass set up. Mine will be more utilitarian metal. I made a 24" Break last weekend to bend the sheets .032 aluminum for the scoop.

I also got the radiator in the mail today. While looking for the right radiator and talking with a local shop about making a custom unit, I found out that a Honda M/C CBR 1100 was so close to the dimensions I needed that I decided could not pass it up, so I ordered one. I think it will work out well, and they are plentiful and as such very reasonably priced.

Lots to post in coming weeks.

Charlie

Last edited by charosenz : 02-21-2019 at 09:57 PM.
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  #277  
Old 02-25-2019, 10:54 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Location: Magnolia KY
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Default Radiator

Below is a picture of the radiator I am seriously considering using for the under the belly scoop (like Ross from SDS). Arguably you can consider this somewhat akin to the P51 concept.

As you can read in the pic this is what is used on the Honda CBR 1100 M/C. They are readily available on the "net" for less than $100.

It is not exactly as wide or as thick as would be ideal, but all things that I know, this should work out OK. I also plan to use a fairly generous heater core up front in the cowling on one of the two bypass loops which will also help provide some cooling.



One issue that I will debate while building the scoop is to "tilt" the radiator to lower the profile. While I completely understand it does negatively affect the airflow, as thin as this core is, it won't be as much as if it was a 3" core. If it it was that thick I would not even consider a tilt. This is in the yet-to-be-decided category.

( updated - I end up not using this and went with one that was shorter and wider...…-CR)

Last edited by charosenz : 04-06-2019 at 10:06 PM.
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  #278  
Old 02-26-2019, 05:45 AM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
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I wouldn't consider tilting it. Any reduction in frontal area scoop drag will be likely offset by increased drag within the duct. If you look at the angle required to actually reduce the frontal area given the depth of the core, you'd have to lay it down a lot. This makes it harder to mount as well.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 449.8 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiy...g2GvQfelECCGoQ



Last edited by rv6ejguy : 02-26-2019 at 04:14 PM.
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  #279  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:31 AM
Tomcat RV4 Tomcat RV4 is offline
 
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Location: Jacksonville,Fl. 32246
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Check with various race stores for shorter/wider radiator,as will make mounting/ plumbing easier ! Tom
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RV4 gone to RV heaven !building Zenith 701
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Life is uncertain -Eat desert first !
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  #280  
Old 02-26-2019, 09:38 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Magnolia KY
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Ross,

I do agree "tilting" is not ideal, especially as it relates to the direction of the airflow, and knowing the radiator I am considering, it is only 1.2" "taller" than what is ideal, it would be easy to remove an inch for a better (reduced) frontal footprint.

I remember your write up, you made sure to avoid angles that are greater than 7 degrees. This is consistent with what I have read in various other articles. I also agree that ideally tuft testing for laminar flow is very helpful, and if I remember correctly in your case this helped you to learn that adding a sheet to direct flow to reduce separation and get more laminar flow.

Thanks for your willingness to share your experience.

I do plan to create a cardboard mock up and see what I like, as well as see how well things go together and of course, how much I can keep it simple but effective.

Charlie
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