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  #11  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:26 AM
Paul K Paul K is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,019
Default

Bob,

I totally agree with the washers. I just don't like the looks of them. You'll notice from the two photos I posted that the front hole/screw does have the washer. This is for security in a critical area. The rest will be watched and if they start to wear, then they too will get the washer treatement.

You are correct in that it is a real bear to get the alignment perfect. Someone on here once said 'perfection is the enemy of completion' or somthing like that. How true!
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2012, 07:42 AM
Daniel S. Daniel S. is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
Posts: 315
Default Follow up on how I did my fairing

Hey all-
My removable fairing came out perfect & wanted to share with my process with ya'll if it's ever usefull for someone down the road wanting a removable rudder fairing.

1. I elected to go with #6 SS screws and CS SS washers on a 2.5 inch spacing. a total of 14 screws. # 8 scews / washers in this application simply don't leave a decent edge distance. Plus the washers overlap the aluminum. As a former - out of practice old-school A&P, I did NOT drill the most forward area which would entail drilling through the side of the main rudder spar and/or the control horn bracing. Thats a "no-no" in my book, as the forces on that area are insane during spin recovery ect. I only used the intended attach strips & used a heat gun to form the frontal to a nice tight fit.

2. After final triming / filing / sanding / fitting of the fairing to my liking, then used packing tape to keep the fairing in place while I laid out a center line for the rivet line / screw line (8/32nds)from the aluminum skin. Finally, I used a fan spacer to lay out the 2.5 inch spacing.

3. Then used a center punch to mark the exact location of each hole to drill. dilled these hole to a #40 size hole & clecoed.

4. After ensuring the alignment of the fairing after drilling, I came back through with a #30 bit and replace the corresponding clecos.

5. With the fairing clecoed in place, I counter-sunk the fairing to except the CS tinnerman type washers. Counter sinking while the fairing was in place allowed me to used the "harder" aluminum holes at a templet for my counter sinks. Then followed up inlarging the hole finally to a #27 bit.

6. Then I removed the fairing and used a #6 nut plate jig to drill for the nut plates. This tool is worth it's weight in gold!!! I have them for #6, #8 & #10 nut plates. It took about a minute to drill for all of the nut plates.

7. Finally, deburred, dimpled and riveted the nut plates in place. When I re-mounted the fairing with the final attach hardware, the alignment was ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. No need for floating nutplates etc.

it sounds like a lot of work but the whole process took about an hour or less.

I hope someone can use this method in the future as I am extremely happy how it all turned out. I'll post pictures in my log later today.

Again guys, Thank you for your input, Without it, I wouldn't have come up with this basterdized method that kind of solved issues others had
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2012, 01:48 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default To Each His Own but ... another method

Edge Distance - I don't like the tiny little screws. Maybe there is some compelling reason your edge distance is short but on ours it is a function of the size of the underlapping sub-flange and where I chose to locate the attachment hole line for the platenuts. There is no short edge distance in our installation with #8 hardware.

Platenut tools:

- When I locate a line of holes for #8 platenuts I drill the initial hole with a #30 drill and clecoe it with a bronze (1/8" clecoe) and repeat as I go through the entire pattern.

- When I am done with that set of undesize hole locations I take a fixed (not floating) platenut and clecoe it to the accessible side of the structural member it is to be attached to with a bronze clecoe.

- I use a #40 drill and drill the first mounting hole through one of the mounting holes in the platenut using it as a drill guide then I clecoe it with a silver (3/32") clecoe to stabilize the orientation of the platenut.

- I use the other platenut mounting hole as a drill guide and drill the other mounting hole.

- Then remove the clecoes and platenut and drill out the screw hole in the structure to 3/16".

It is so stone simple I can't imagine what a special platenut tool gives you - certainly not accuracy. If you go with miniature platenuts the mounting locations are different of course but I guess the tool compensates for that - the actual miniature platenut certainly does.

Bob Axsom

P.S. The Mil-specs identify them as platenuts, nutplates and anchor nuts so there is DOD published precedent for all three names but very early in my career (1958 to be exact) it was firmly established in my young mind that they are types of nuts not types of plates and a nut plate is a flat structural member containing nuts.

BA

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 08-28-2012 at 01:53 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2012, 02:23 PM
RV9A Bill RV9A Bill is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 265
Default Me too

My experience is that the method Bob just described works well for me.
Better than the specialized tool.
Bill
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2020, 02:17 PM
cwilkins cwilkins is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 89
Default Cleveland Tool Tail Light Adapter Ring

Anyone know if the tailbeacon from Uavionix will fit through the Cleveland Tool adapter ring?
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  #16  
Old 01-21-2020, 04:39 AM
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ronschreck ronschreck is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,695
Default Flush Washer

I have found that flush washers (also known as finishing washers) are a good alternative to tinnerman washers. I painted my wing tanks separately and mounted them with #8 screws with flush washers. Now the tanks can be removed with no damage to the paint job and the task is 100% easier. (Anyone who thinks that they will never have to remove their fuel tanks is a cockeyed optimist, IMHO.) I use these washers on my wheel pants as well and believe they would look great on a removable rudder fairing.

Flush Washer



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  #17  
Old 01-21-2020, 05:14 AM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Medford, NJ USA
Posts: 455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Axsom View Post
Edge Distance - I don't like the tiny little screws. Maybe there is some compelling reason your edge distance is short but on ours it is a function of the size of the underlapping sub-flange and where I chose to locate the attachment hole line for the platenuts. There is no short edge distance in our installation with #8 hardware.
BA
I used #4 screws to attach my bottom fairing.
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2020, 06:38 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 10,269
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronschreck View Post
I have found that flush washers (also known as finishing washers) are a good alternative to tinnerman washers.
My flush choice too. Tinnermans? Yuk.

The tank screw idea is pretty slick.

I'm sure it costs me a milliknot or two, but on glass I generally use stainless AN526 screws and a nylon washer. No countersinking, full thickness edge to the hole.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages...rews/an526.php

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=3010106
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2020, 08:02 AM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 4,137
Default removable

Was planning on removable, but then with the hole at each end, it's pretty easy to get full access. I couldn't quite recall the motivation for making it removable so I used blind rivets.
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2020, 09:08 AM
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climberrn climberrn is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 635
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[quote=ronschreck;1401883]I have found that flush washers (also known as finishing washers) are a good alternative to tinnerman washers. I painted my wing tanks separately and mounted them with #8 screws with flush washers. Now the tanks can be removed with no damage to the paint job and the task is 100% easier. (Anyone who thinks that they will never have to remove their fuel tanks is a cockeyed optimist, IMHO.) I use these washers on my wheel pants as well and believe they would look great on a removable rudder fairing.

Flush Washer


Very easy to make your own SS finishing washers. Source a thin stainless washer and use the proper dimple die. Comes out great.
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Last edited by climberrn : 01-21-2020 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Edited pics
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