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  #11  
Old 01-11-2015, 04:23 PM
WVM WVM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Belgium
Posts: 248
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Hi,

It seems that I am not alone with this issue that took almost all my weekend and is still not completed...

Tried to find all advise on the forum, but nothing really seems to work out for me. Please find my pictures below.

- Rivets are flush.
- Left and Right elevator have some issue.
- Holes on spar aligned perfectly.
- Bend seems to be OK because it fits the skins perfectly
- Can it be imperfections on the horns?

Anyone got some advise for me?













MANY thanks!
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2015, 08:09 PM
AlphaSierra85 AlphaSierra85 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bolingbrook,IL
Posts: 17
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I had the same trouble on my 7. I ended up ordering a new rib and it fit perfectly. Maybe they had a bad production run on those ribs. That drove me nuts for a few days before I finally gave in and bought the part.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2015, 11:12 PM
WVM WVM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Belgium
Posts: 248
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Thanks for the suggestion. I contacted VANS.

But I don't see much difference in my initial situation compared to the situation that various other builders had before they managed to get it correct. I think that there most be some kind of method or trick to it.

I also tried to clamp a large nail in the corner and tried to get the rib radius smaller so it better aligns the horn, but that is not really moving that much to correct it.
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  #14  
Old 01-13-2015, 02:50 PM
WVM WVM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Belgium
Posts: 248
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Just for your information. VANS suggested to add a backing plate between the horn and the rib. I have tried that, but it is not really chancing a lot.
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2015, 04:07 PM
DaAV8R DaAV8R is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 749
Default Radius

There are locations in the kit that things get really tight for the pre-punch technology. In my opinion, this is a good example. To me it would be better if the .125 holes in the end rib were drilled by the builder.

I had to change the radius on the end rib between the rib and the flange. Your third picture shows that if the end rib moved more "into the corner", the pre-punch holes would better align. A smaller radius would seem to accomplish this.
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2015, 11:22 PM
WVM WVM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Belgium
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaAV8R View Post
There are locations in the kit that things get really tight for the pre-punch technology. In my opinion, this is a good example. To me it would be better if the .125 holes in the end rib were drilled by the builder.

I had to change the radius on the end rib between the rib and the flange. Your third picture shows that if the end rib moved more "into the corner", the pre-punch holes would better align. A smaller radius would seem to accomplish this.
Hi,

I agree with you. Both elevators have exactly the same issue. I didn't change the original radius that much during the attachment of the spar to the rib that it should change the alignment this much. Could it be a issue with the corner of the horn? But the skins fit perfectly on the assembly.

I have tried to make the radius smaller based on an advise from another builder. I used a large nail in the corner and a vise grid attempting to pull the rib to the horn, but it doesn't move. It is difficult to find grip on the horn without damaging it. As I already match drilled the holes in the spar, because they aligned perfectly, I rather not drill out the rivets that attach the spar to the rib.

If you would have an idea or method to do so, I would be very happy.

Thanks!
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  #17  
Old 01-14-2015, 11:15 PM
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Mycool Mycool is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 401
Default Pre punch

Always trust the prepunch, it will not fail you. Unless of course you mix up models!
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