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Old 11-18-2014, 02:55 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,428

My angle drill has a small chuck adapter. I got a cheap Harbor Freight step drill and had to grind down the end to fit.

I ended up drilling these tooling holes out, but I don't think I used any of them for wiring. The brackets that hold the control stick interfere with this location. You are better off drilling holes farther back and down low near the bottom skin (eg, near the "F" in the F-916 on the drawing picture).

See this photo for the location.
Bruce Hill
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Last edited by bruceh : 11-18-2014 at 02:57 PM. Reason: added photo
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:57 PM
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cfiidon cfiidon is offline
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I might suggest a flexible drive shaft and the step drill bits. Of course a step drill bit and a socket and drive will work if you only have one hole to drill.

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Old 11-18-2014, 03:00 PM
deek deek is offline
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5/8"? piloted spotface will do the trick; available with threaded shank.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:01 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
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I've used a Unibit in my 90* angle grinder, not the best tool for the job but with some practice works.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:03 PM
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ccsmith51 ccsmith51 is offline
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Originally Posted by Av8torTom View Post
Chris, is that just a hex insert?
Yes, it is. I have a HF Unibit set and a set of hex drive bits that work very well with the adapter.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:14 PM
krw5927 krw5927 is offline
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Location: Wichita, KS
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Originally Posted by Av8torTom View Post
Kurt, what sort of chuck does that Lowes drill have? Looks like it also takes threaded bits
The Lowes right angle drill has a 1/4" hex chuck. Fits perfectly with the 1/4" hex shank step drills that HF sells. It will not accept threaded bits.

From the product description on the Lowes link above:
"Accepts standard 1/4 inch hex shank bits"

Actually the one I bought at Lowes is red. Exactly like this one:
Kurt W.

Last edited by krw5927 : 11-18-2014 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:22 PM
ninerhawk ninerhawk is offline
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 27
Default Drilling hole

I remember a previous post here on VAF showing a 1/4-28 threaded piloted countersink bit with a 5/8" dia body being used in conjunction with a 90 degree drill motor or adapter to create the hole. I have not tried this technique. Piloted countersink bits with 5/8" dia bodies do exist.
Howard Kaney
West Bend, WI
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:44 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
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Location: US
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I bought a bunch of different sized threaded bits from, IIRC, McMaster-Carr (I think). Be advised that you definitely need to back up the part with a block of wood, something about the larger sized bits plus the 90 degree angle makes it want to "grab" and twist, deforming the hole/part. And definitely, definitely start smaller and work your way up in drill size.

Just FYI.
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:52 PM
Joe Joe is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 413

Originally Posted by Av8torTom View Post
... Also a 5/8 chassis knockout punch would work but I can't find one that small. Any other thoughts? ...
A Greenlee socket punch for a 7-pin miniature tube socket makes a 5/8" hole. That's what I used. Perhaps an nearby older ham (who remembers the vacuum tube days) has one. I would ask at a ham club meeting.


Joe Dubner
Independence, OR
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:08 AM
LarryT LarryT is offline
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 426
Default Rotobroach?

Check Avery catalog. I don't know how long old posts are saved, but I may have posted years ago when I drilled those holes in a QB wing. I threaded a metal rod and used a jam nut to lock the rotobroach. The rod was 36" long so I was able to drill through every rib.

Larry Tompkins
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W52 Battle Ground WA
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