What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Tip-Up Canopy separation at seam up front

wrongway john

Well Known Member
Caught this the other day, started seeing daylight, not sure what caused it, only has 640 hours. I've bumped my head on it on a few occasions because of turbulence, doubt that in itself would have done it. There were also a few times, when my struts were weakening, it slammed down shut. Maybe that contributed to it, but that's been over a year ago.

I inserted my key to get a better look, appears all of the heads of the blind rivets separated. I think I'll go back with 1.5-2X as many rivets, then also use a two-part epoxy to bind it back together, unless someone thinks that is not a good idea. If anyone has a particular rivet recommendation over another, and maybe the next size up, I'd like to hear what you have to say.

Anyone else had separation up front like this?

wrz5tu.jpg
 
Picture is so close that I can't tell where it is at on the canopy.
What can also help is to post pictures using tips from here... "Insert Pics" located at the top left of this page.
 
Guessing this is the aft end of the canopy and the rivet heads have sheared off, likely from twisting of the canopy by lifting from the side vs the center.

I'd consider using either epoxy/flox mix or proseal to bond it back together if you don't want to sand it down and re-rivet. Roughing and cleaning the two surfaces may prove challenging.
 
I'm thinking it is the forward edge of the canopy.

And it is a RV-6 with a later canopy and not much space (almost none) to blend in the canopy to the metal with the glass. :)

I went for a metal trim at this location.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking it is the forward edge of the canopy.

And it is a RV-6 with a later canopy and not much space (almost none) to blend in the canopy to the metal with the glass. :)

I went for a metal trim at this location.

Plus one for this.
 
Yes, it is front of the canopy for the RV-6, and I apologize for the large pic. And I did read from the ?insert pics? page, I did try a smaller pic, but it didn?t show as much clarity. I?ll try to figure a better way than large pic next time though. Definitely a pain to view.

A friend a hangar over gave me some good advice and the tools and materials to fix it. He seemed to think the rivet heads broke over time from vibration. He recommends not drilling those out, but running another row of CS-4 rivets, which I?ll countersink in, and using a drill specifically for fiberglass, and another drill for the aluminum. Hoping I can get away with just filling the heads with epoxy and micro balloons, but he seemed to think the material is a bit thin, I may have to run another layer of fiberglass. I hadn?t considered pro seal for extra support, will consider that as well. Thanks.

I was just curios if others had a break up front like this. If one does, I?ll document my work if it will help others.

I agree the roughing and cleaning will be the most difficult part, but I?ll take my time, want it to look as good as it did.

As always I appreciate the feedback from VAF.
 
FWIW, and keep in mind that my -6 has a formed aluminum fillet here, but mine is held on with flat head screws and nylock nuts... The fairing and skins were dimpled for this. With your thicker fibreglass filler, I would think you could countersink a flat-head screw into the fibreglass, and put nylock nuts on the back.
 
Do you have the canopy frame stiffeners?

John, that being a 6 (I have a 7) do you have the stiffener from the bottom of the canopy frame lateral spar up to the skin? I have the stiffener, but still have pressure lifting due to internal static pressure. All that load would cause the hinge bar loads to twist on the "spar" and could put significant loads on that glass-to-skin joint (and rivets).

Maybe other 6 owners/builders/operators to comment on the lifting and effect of that stiffener to help unload the joint and extend the life of your repair.
 
Rob, and Bill, I appreciate the additional feedback. Another friend suggested I might go with flat head screws and nylocks, countersink those into the fiberglass. Will order some of those as well, along with rivets, see which one might work best for me. I think my fillet area is fiberglass, wasn't aware some were aluminum.

Bill, I'm not sure what stiffeners you might be referring too. I'll later try to get a pic of the underside of my canopy, see if it is similar to yours.
 
Back
Top