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DIY Oil Filter Drain

HFS

Well Known Member
Here is a simple and effective way to drain the residual oil out of the filter at oil change - best for horizontal installations. Not so much otherwise.

If installed and used correctly there will be no "drips" when removing the filter - just have an adequate length drain period. Also makes a difference whether the oil is warm/hot or cold.

I have printed instructions for its use, but the file is "invalid" as an attachment - but it's pretty straight forward.

YMMV - and probably will

The 90* elbow is to miss the FW "shelf" on -4's & Rockets - o/w if there is enough clearance, a straight fitting (much simpler to make) works just as well.
 

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Tried this method but still ended up with a mess - Have finally settled on a form-a-funnel that I have shaped to nest under the oil filter mount and runs down into the bucket. Below that, layers of "PIG" mat just in case. Slowly approaching my goal of a spotless oil change.

Also saw a 3-D printer funnel recently that mounts right below the filter. May try that next.
 
FBD172DC-BCED-4313-B2F6-1AACFAEA8991.jpeg.

This is a drain I rigged up. There is a “V” shaped piece of .016 aluminum riveted to a length of aluminum hat section that is positioned under the oil filter and adapter. Punch a hole in the filter near its base and rotate so oil drains out of it and onto the drain.

First time I rigged this up for this year’s CI. Clean as a whistle afterward. Only mess that occurred was the breeze coming into the hangar making the tail end of the oil draining out miss the collector can.
 

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This is a drain I rigged up. There is a “V” shaped piece of .016 aluminum riveted to a length of aluminum hat section that is positioned under the oil filter and adapter. Punch a hole in the filter near its base and rotate so oil drains out of it and onto the drain.

First time I rigged this up for this year’s CI. Clean as a whistle afterward. Only mess that occurred was the breeze coming into the hangar making the tail end of the oil draining out miss the collector can.

Same here except I don’t bother with punching a hole. Just crack the filter until it flows slowly down the angle. Go do everything else. Drain/replace. By the time that’s done the filters empty. I’ve perfected it. Mess free (if the hangar door is shut…) I tried the hole with a fitting and hose method but couldn’t make it work consistently.

E7D5689C-6809-4A95-9EDE-4074B1B379E3.jpeg
 
I save up old rags and paper towels because no matter what I try I always have made a mess.
 
Same here except I don’t bother with punching a hole. Just crack the filter until it flows slowly down the angle. Go do everything else. Drain/replace. By the time that’s done the filters empty. I’ve perfected it. Mess free (if the hangar door is shut…) I tried the hole with a fitting and hose method but couldn’t make it work consistently.

View attachment 24367
Same here but just use a piece of 1-1.5” diameter pvc cut lengthwise and place under filter while unscrewing slightly.
Learned this trick here on VAF and has resulted in the cleanest filter removals I’ve ever done.
 
This is how I route mine on a RV-14 with a 390. I seriously considered mounting a remote filter. So glad that I saved the weight, additional hoses, and the money. Can be done without spilling a drop.
 

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Same here but just use a piece of 1-1.5” diameter pvc cut lengthwise and place under filter while unscrewing slightly.
Learned this trick here on VAF and has resulted in the cleanest filter removals I’ve ever done.

+1. I had tried several different methods/gadgets and finally tried the 1 1/2” PVC technique - worked like a charm! Didn’t spill a drop.
 
Here is a simple and effective way to drain the residual oil out of the filter at oil change - best for horizontal installations. Not so much otherwise.

If installed and used correctly there will be no "drips" when removing the filter - just have an adequate length drain period. Also makes a difference whether the oil is warm/hot or cold.

I have printed instructions for its use, but the file is "invalid" as an attachment - but it's pretty straight forward.

YMMV - and probably will

The 90* elbow is to miss the FW "shelf" on -4's & Rockets - o/w if there is enough clearance, a straight fitting (much simpler to make) works just as well.

I am curious on how the 90 was fabricated.

I have been using a purchased US Industrial Tool very similar for over 20-years. I have not found anything better for me and my airplane.

OilFilterDrainKit.jpg
 
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Last several oil changes, I punch a hole in the top of the filter, hit it with a couple shots of compressed air (just a little), then go home. Come back The next and change the filter. Seldom a big mess, couple of wipes under the filter before spinning it off catches almost all of the spilled oil. I do put a piece of tape over the punched hole before spinning it off.
 
Agreeing with excellent advice and no special tools

Last several oil changes, I punch a hole in the top of the filter, hit it with a couple shots of compressed air (just a little), then go home. Come back The next and change the filter. Seldom a big mess, couple of wipes under the filter before spinning it off catches almost all of the spilled oil. I do put a piece of tape over the punched hole before spinning it off.

This method works surprisingly well. Read this tip somewhere years ago. I punch a hole in the top and go home. Next day the filter has very little oil left in it and a rag wrapped around the base as you screw it off is all it takes. :)
 
This method works surprisingly well. Read this tip somewhere years ago. I punch a hole in the top and go home. Next day the filter has very little oil left in it and a rag wrapped around the base as you screw it off is all it takes. :)

This for a vertical, horizontal or inverted filter orientation?
When you say top of filter, do you mean actual top or upper part of can?
 
Mine is horizontal

This for a vertical, horizontal or inverted filter orientation?
When you say top of filter, do you mean actual top or upper part of can?

On a horizontal, at the highest point on a filter. When finally screwing it off besides the rag around the base I put a piece of tape over the punched hole. It’s not operating room clean perfect but much better than just screwing off the filter “as is “ which makes a real mess. That punched hole breaks any vacuum and giving it time ( hours are better than minutes) allows most of residual oil in the can to drain back into the case. Oh, you’ll get a little bit of oil but the rag catches it. I’m going to try the few short bursts of compressed air the next to see if it makes it even better.
Your results may vary :D
 
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