Dimpling elevator skins

I've had really no problems up to this point in the empennage construction. Trying to dimple elevator skins is tough to not crease the skins!

I have a DRDT-2 dimpler and it is still tough. I finally did it but there a few minor dings.

I did a search concerning dimpling elevator skins and found NADA! You guys must rock and I must stink at this because I had a bear of a time dimpling the holes close to the forward spar.

Any tricks would be appreciated for when I do the left elevator.

Thanks.

Elevator Dimpling

A couple of tips:

Having an assistant helps a lot...I held the bottom side of the skin flat, my assistant carefully lifted the upper side up, and I whacked the dimple (C-frame) for most of the holes.

For the holes right at the trailing edge I used a pop-rivet dimpler (available from Avery or Cleaveland). Worked fine; I used the copper shank (provided with the set) for the initial pull, then switched to a common nail for a second pull on the dimple. The dimples were almost as good as those set with the C-frame.

Mike

docrick?

I am not sure why you would have trouble dimpling close to the spar when everything is apart. If you are talking about dimpling the spar itself you may need to file your FEMALE dimpler flat on one side to allow you to get close enuf to it without scratching or dinging the spar. I filed mine (lots) and it makes just as nice of a dimple as one that isn't filed. I had trouble getting in near the trailing edge but found that a pop rivet dimpler made easy work there. Best of luck with your project. It is fun isn't it.

make sure the skins are held level with the bottom of the dimpler. got a couple of pieces of about 35mmx70mm timber and covered them with toweling, put them on either side of the dimpler out towards the edge fo the skin being dimpled and did it on my own. Keep at it.

Buck Up, Doc! You are going to encounter challenges much more frustrating than dimpling! Well worth the effort though. Don't be afraid to order replacement parts. Just part of the learning process.

dimpling skins

docrick said:

I've had really no problems up to this point in the empennage construction. Trying to dimple elevator skins is tough to not crease the skins!

I have a DRDT-2 dimpler and it is still tough. I finally did it but there a few minor dings.

I did a search concerning dimpling elevator skins and found NADA! You guys must rock and I must stink at this because I had a bear of a time dimpling the holes close to the forward spar.

Any tricks would be appreciated for when I do the left elevator.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Doc,
with the unsofisticated C-frame I got a nice piece of finnish ply from my local hobby shop 48x12x 3/8. I drilled two holes about 2" from each edge midline-the 48" edge. One hole big enough for #40 dimple die, the other for #30 die. That piece of ply is then placed in the C-frame with the dimple die sticking up through it-be sure to sand the hole edges smooth. Perfect. Piece being dimpled lays flat and will not crease. I did all of my dimpling this way, wing skins and all, by myself. For the larger pieces, wing skins, etc. go to Lowes, Home Depot, etc and in the lumber section they sell this stuff called Marminite(I think that's how you spell it) it's white plastic coated press board that you use for shelving. Buy yourself some 4-8 pieces of it 48x12 and 4-8 pieces of the 18x12. 2 pieces of this stacked one on the other is approximately the same height as the C-frame. Use these stacked pieces under the overhanging skins in your C-frame. I used all different combinations at some very wierd angles but you can lay them out on your table and keep you wing or fuse skins flat. That is taking it for granted that you have a 4'x8' work table-couldn't work on my plane without that table, best tool that I have.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A/8A

Rick,

I had to move my dimpler and support table as far forward on the bench as possible. Then, it was a two man job to get in close to the leading edge, i.e. spar rivet holes. One person to hold the skin flat at the dimple die, as well as to hold the side hanging down open and away from the bench. The second monkey "pulled the lever".

Another fan here of the pop rivet dimple die set.

Thanks guys

I was able to do the dimpling but I felt I was on the edge of really creasing the skins doing so. On the left elevator for those leading edge holes me thinks I'll use the pop rivet dies.

docrick said:

I was able to do the dimpling but I felt I was on the edge of really creasing the skins doing so. On the left elevator for those leading edge holes me thinks I'll use the pop rivet dies.

Click to expand...

If you're worried about how far you have to open the skin up, just wait until it's time to rivet the top side of the spar.

Rick,

I live in Medford and I am building a 7A. I am currently finishing my wings and I've been though much of what you are going to face. I would be more than happy to assist you with anything you need help with.

Jim Haran

Opening Skins

cln1owner said:

Rick,

I had to move my dimpler and support table as far forward on the bench as possible. Then, it was a two man job to get in close to the leading edge, i.e. spar rivet holes. One person to hold the skin flat at the dimple die, as well as to hold the side hanging down open and away from the bench. The second monkey "pulled the lever".

Click to expand...

I found a much easier way to open these skins up to dimple next to spar. Took a piece of 1"x2" furring stock(Lowe's Aviation lumber department), cut 4x 18" pieces, got 2 of those off the shelf gray shelf support angles 12" long, placed 2 of the 18" cut pieces together to form an 'L', screwed it together with the shelf support anges on the inside of the 'L', covered the wood with
1" ID foam pipe insulation(Lowe's Aviation Pumbing Dept) split down the middle and held on with duct tape. You end up with 2 sets of the 'L' brackets. Using the Sears soft clamps I then clamped the assembly into the inside of the skins(only really have to clamp one side, the assembled bracket keeps the other side open). Dimpled away by myself.
When working as a one man band necessity is the Mother of invention. I envy you guys that have helpers readily available for this easy stuff. LOL!
Mike H 9A/8A

WHAT DA HECK IZZAT??

cln1owner said:

Rick,

I had to move my dimpler and support table as far forward on the bench as possible. Then, it was a two man job to get in close to the leading edge, i.e. spar rivet holes. One person to hold the skin flat at the dimple die, as well as to hold the side hanging down open and away from the bench. The second monkey "pulled the lever".

Click to expand...

Is this a new elevator design for the 7? With the AEX wedge perhaps?

If so, not having to curl the LE is a blessing. They were a pain.

Now if they would just do the same thing for the 9 rudders....

Bill,

The HS and elevators on the 9 are different than the 6,7, and 8. They are a constant cord, so probably easier to stamp from a single sheet and bend/roll. I don't know what's more of a pain, having to roll and finish the leading edge, or clueing and riveting the trailing edge straight.

cln1owner said:

Bill,

The HS and elevators on the 9 are different than the 6,7, and 8. They are a constant cord, so probably easier to stamp from a single sheet and bend/roll. I don't know what's more of a pain, having to roll and finish the leading edge, or clueing and riveting the trailing edge straight.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nate,
I didn't notice the picture posters signature file stating a 9, since many other posters were showing as 7 and 8 builders.

As you probably know, the revised 7 rudder uses the AEX wedge. The rudder contruction had its challenges due to jigging required but my finished product was dead straight. On my elevators, you had to build a bending brake and close the TE bend on a piece of pre-bent sheet and then bend the leading edges closed with a pipe or broomhandle and a lot of grunt. The PITA factor was higher for me on the elevators and I am really not happy with the results. The TEs are not straight and my counterweights are out of line. I am likely to rebuild them before the project is over. If the 7 elevators ever go to AEX wedge design, I will be a happy person.

Ah yes

doc
Oh, now I see why you were having trouble near the leading edge!! That is an orange not an apple!! Totally different elevator.

Here's how I did it on my 7 you can do the same on your 9 or you could just open the rolled edge up some.