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What Tailwheel is This?

Lt Dan

Well Known Member
In other news...

Help! I've lost my locking feature of my tailwheel! One flight it was there, then on landing, it was not. It now completely freely swivels always.

I'll take it off and take it apart to inspect it, but I have no idea where to start. I bought the plane from the builder in January, it was finished in '08. Can anyone help me identify what tailwheel this is so that I might have a place to start as far as knowing what to look for once I get inside it...

Thanks!
 
Looks like a standard vans tailwheel to me.

Mine is similar on my -8.

Take the nut off and the control arms for the tailwheel steering.

Be careful! At this point when you pull the tailwheel off there is a "square pin" with a spring. That spring is probably all caked up with dirt and grime so the spring amd pin may be stuck.

Just when you think it is stuck and you are holding it in your hand looking at it "BONG"!!! The spring pops out and you lost it!

Clean it up, relube and carefully put it back together so as not to over tighten the nut...or you will still have a non locking tailwheel.

Vince has all the parts if you loose something:

http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/RV-and-Homebuilt-Tailwheel-Products-s/1.htm
 
TW

It looks like the 'Screaming Eagle' tail wheel available from Flyboyaccessories.com they even have some maintenance tips on their website.
Good luck..
 
Yep, that is the standard Vans tailwheel. Put the service procedures detailed by Smiling Jack on your yearly condition inspection hit list. Usually one clean/lube per year will be sufficient to keep the locking pin working as designed.

One more note: if the pin is still a little tight in its bore after cleaning, use a file to dress the corners of the pin. They can wear over time and create a tight fit. This is a simple mechanism, you'll figure it out once you take it apart.

One more note: I see you have clips attaching the springs to the steering yoke. Those clips can wear enough to break after extended time in service. Carry a spare pair with you but if you get caught without an extra set, the plane can still be taxied and safely landed with a free swiveling tailwheel as long as there isn't a cross wind.

Enjoy your new plane!
 
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Lt. Dan,

That's a standard Van's fork. We have repair parts and fork upgrades... whatever you need.

Usually, the control arm/locking pin interface gets worn down, or dirt and debris interfere with the function causing locking problems. It's easy to fix and inexpensive too.

If it's just dirt and burrs, it's free! If the control arm locking notch has rounded off, just replace the control arm and you should be back in business.

http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/RV-and-Homebuilt-Tailwheel-Products-s/1.htm
 
Beware those heart shaped clips. They WILL pop off at inconvenient times... like when you're trying to steer! Consider putting a wrap of safety wire around the pointy end to keep it closed.

We don't carry them. Sorry.

ACS has a wide assortment of pins, clevises, eyebolts, etc... to replace those clips. All are more expensive, of course, but all work better!!

YMMV!
 
Aircraft Spruce:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/06-15400.php?clickkey=9469

06-15400b.jpg


Yes...wire the narrow ends together!
 
OK, awesome! I'll grab a spare set from Acft Spruce or upgrade.

As for the progress.. I got in there and I see that this is the culprit:

The question is now, how in the heck to I get that square pin to budge to access the spring just visible in the pic below???


Also, next question, I cleaned and degreased the whole thing with WD-40 (an old trick from motorcycles, for example to degrease a nasty gunked up and grimy chain). However, in doing so I realize I probably washed all the grease off from the wheel bearings inside. To re-grease it do I just squeeze some into that grease zerk (visible in first photo) with a grease gun? Thanks!!
 
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Actually, I just gave it a little abuse with a hammer and screw driver and nudged it out. Amazing how little gunk and burring it takes to get that thing stuck!
 
Go here for tail wheel service advice

Go here:

http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Tailwheel-Maintenance-Documents-p/1109.htm

From Vince's site:

Many problems that pilots have with their tailwheels can be solved easily with proper maintenance. These documents will show you how to keep your tailwheel assembly in order.

This item is free as a virtual download. You can find these documents available to download and print here, or check out with this item in your cart to receive an email with a link to download the documents.

Included documents are:
?Tailwheel Assembly Sequence
?Locking Pin Maintenance
?Swivel tailwheel Maintenance Tips
?Bent Spring Upgrade Instructions



Download the document and it will answer most of your questions. The grease zerk on the wheel does not grease the tailwheel pivot shaft.
 
Thanks, Joe. I was wondering if that zerk actually greases the wheel bearings?

For the next guy who comes along and reads this, here's what it looks like apart. Be aware that if my pin was not jammed, it and the spring would have gone flying as soon as I took the tailwheel out of the shaft. For reference, that big nut holding it and the control arms on is a 3/4 inch nut.



I just got done gently removing any burrs on the square pin with a fine sharpening stone and my plan now is to grease it all and slap it back together.
 
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The zerk does not grease the bearings, it merely fills up the hub so you can sling the grease out all over the rudder. ;)

Replace the bearings when they get noisy. They are inexpensive and Vans keeps them in stock.
 
Take the nut off and the control arms for the tailwheel steering.

Be careful! At this point when you pull the tailwheel off there is a "square pin" with a spring. That spring is probably all caked up with dirt and grime so the spring amd pin may be stuck.

Just when you think it is stuck and you are holding it in your hand looking at it "BONG"!!! The spring pops out and you lost it!

Clean it up, relube and carefully put it back together so as not to over tighten the nut...or you will still have a non locking tailwheel.

John had it pefectly correct. I was able to get all that done quite uneventfully because that pin was lodged in place with gunk. Before I put it all together, since I was getting metal shavings out of my bearings while I cleaned the thing, I decided to replace the bearings before putting the wheel back on. I also rotated the wheel 180? due to slightly uneven wear. The bearings are available for $3 ea from Van's. Under "Airframe Maintenance." http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/store.cgi?ident=1466617785-236-261&browse=am They really gouge you on the TWELVE DOLLAR shipping, though!

I had never done this before so my A&P friend was gracious enough to show me how. We tapped out the old bearings with a drift and hammer.
s

Holding those old bearings in my hand I sure was glad I decided to replace them. They were in pretty dire shape! They're probably original or older. Maybe you can confirm this, Bruce...? The airplane has a little under 300 hours on it now.

Also having that wheel hub completely open, I can 100% verify what Sam said.
The zerk does not grease the bearings, it merely fills up the hub...
. My advice to anyone contemplating using it is never to do it! It is an utterly and completely useless grease zerk. You don't want your wheel hub full of grease. It won't even eventually make its way to the bearings since they're sealed.

So after that, we tapped the new bearings in, rotated the tire, and slapped it all back together. Easy as that!

Does anyone know how much exactly to torque that 3/4 in nut? I forgot John's warning when I was reassembling it and cranked that thing down pretty hard [seems like an important component to me - I'm pretty surprised it doesn't have a cotter pin] but I don't seem to have any ill effects. Functions beautifully now!
 
The big nut on top of the stack should be tightened down firmly. The design is such that it shouldn't prevent the fork from swiveling freely since it tightens on the shoulder of the pivot shaft and doesn't clamp the housing.

If you tighten the big nut firmly and find that the fork won't swivel freely...SOMETHING IS WRONG.
 
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