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Tool questions

Mark Henderson

Well Known Member
Up to this point I haven't needed a torque wrench . My 1/2 " drive one is obviously not going to work for the AN3 bolts in the nut plates. Will a decent beam torque wrench ($40) suffice , or should I spend the money ($160) for a dial one. Second question. I have the Avery rivet squeezer with a 3" yoke as well as the stainless steel one they sell. A guy in the hanger down from me has offered me the use of his pneumatic squeezer. Is it worth while? There is always a learning curve with each new tool,and I assume the pneumatic squeezer is the same. I have finished the wing kit, and am about to start the tail cone portion of the empenage kit. Thanks
 
The $40 beam type is a better choice in all respects. They read from 0 to 60 inch pounds so they are very accurate in mid scale which is where most of your measurements will be. They let you read the locknut friction so you can add that to the final torque. And best of all, they are the cheapest choice so you can afford beer too!
 
Yah, when I got my license, click wrenches weren't even legal. For general fasteners, etc. ( not case halves) any type small torquer is really close enough. An AN3 will handle several times standard torque, then it stretches to where it's visibly necked down in the threads and you can already feel the threads going (test bolt). That's so far beyond torque it's simian. Sometimes Van's nut fits tend to be right on the grip, thats bad. When you hit torque, remove your backing wrench and if the thing turns with the torque wrench below torque you need to throw in a 960L, or something (IMOP). If Part A isn't snug agains Part B, your inviting fretting, galvanic, etc.
 
Heck yeah you want to use a pneumatic if you have access....there are a lot more rivets to squeeze in the fuse and tail....but don't buy one...its not worth THAT much...for a 12. As for torque, most of your bolts are 3's and its hard to overtorque 20 inches...get the cheapie. my 2 cents.

Pete
fuse/wing/tail...waitin on the finish
 
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